The technical adventures of Dr_C

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I am learning from your mistakes here! I think that there's the potetial for a papergasket. all these years of talks on crushed copper HGs and fire rings etc and here we have a situation where the silicon wants to be squeezed out. if silicon is going to get 'the squeeze' each time then a paper gasket is required. the rocker cover only gets a light squeeze in many places.

there must be plenty of advice around from these manufacturers. by the way, that front left corner has been a bit of a weakness in the past with the standard bike.

Taffy
I agree to that the paper gasket still has a given place in some applications. Here is a only a 2-3mm wide sealing surface, which makes times tough for a paper gasket me thinks. I never reassemble the cylinder head without splitting the cases and glue the packer again. When the cylinder head comes off, it's allways because something further down needs attention! :)

Make sure the leak sealer You use won't clog Your radiator. Look who I'm telling. What I know about motorcycles Dr.C has forgotten in one day.
When vibrations are bad, a sealer just works for a while. I have however done some emergency repairs successfully using https://www.holtsauto.com/holts/products/wondarweld/ If you whip this "Bloody Mary" good in a can and then fill the system, run it hot as prescribed and then flush the system, no residues are to be found inside! Excellent product for a "war repair"! And thanks for the concern!

Ah the head packer

Could try 1207b. If I need it thick I Don't tighten immediately just finger tight leave overnight then tighten it

1207 b is firecracker crazy good stuff
Oooooo, "firecracker crazy good", you say!!?? I'll have to get me some!

The cylinder head was not totally square when measured. At the positions for the leaks, it was up to 0,06 mm "low", which explains a thing or two. The photo is after shaving off 0,02 mm. Milling off, in total, 0,07 mm made all the surface fresh again! Tomorrow I will assamble and do another leak test! Fingers crossed please!
 

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Patience is obviously a necessary virtue in this business! The milling of the cyl head cured the external leakage. Adjusting the spacer edge (sticking down into the groove in the cases for the OEM liner) by 0,05 mm and letting the 1194 (not firecracker crazy good) goo, cure for 24h, fixed the leak into the cam chain tunnel. Now the o-rings are leaking from the water jacket down to the crank case! But only at the right hand side case! Well. I'm glad to be able to test this in my workshop!

Photo is taken with my new "usb endoscope camera". The view is from inside the crank case, looking up at the lower edge of the steel cylinder liner. The green coolant is bleeding through!


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I had forgotten the horror of the deburred edges! Devastating for the o-rings, sealing the lower end of the water jacket. I had to weld and grind a sharp edge between the crank case halves, some crank cases ago. Had forgotten but was now reminded! Maybe, just maybe, this is the last piece of the puzzle?

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Wow, fingers crossed!!

Just to understand it all - the weld / grind is something you put on the to-do list but wasn't finalized? Or something that needs to be redone?
 
Wow, fingers crossed!!

Just to understand it all - the weld / grind is something you put on the to-do list but wasn't finalized? Or something that needs to be redone?
I have only had to do the weld/grind operation on one crank case before. I suppose the larger and softer OEM o-rings are more forgiving in this aspect. So I have not considered the weld/grind procedure to be included in the normal race prep of "new" cases. So I'm adding it on the to-do list. There was another possible practise event on Sunday in jeopardy... Sleeves up on the shirt!

The photo shows the small gap that will occur when the cases have been deburred. Not much but with 1,5 mm viton o-rings, it may very well be enough to cause the leakage.

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If it leaks now, the devil has taken possession of the details!

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This is how you want the oil to look when you drain it! The fluids are separated!

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Balance factor is now adjusted from 0,47 to 0,62. Tomorrow is a training session at a close by club circuit. It will be interesting to see what effect this had!

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Looking good dr c!

Fwiw with the spherical rollers I feel that the pin welds are perhaps a weak point.

I ground out a lot of metal and put a very generous fillet right the way around

Well see what happens ! If yours don't crack I'll invest in firecrackers instead of er7os2 rods
 
The training today proved that water stays where it should, the new exhaust system is efficient and that BF 0,62 was a good choice! Thanks Bushie!

After a while, when the old fart on the seat, got warm in his clothes, the bike started behaving like a rocking horse. I wasn't "pushing harrrdd", but I felt that if I would continue, the tyres wouldn't be the lowest part of the bike anymore. A fast check in the pits revealed that the rear shock rebound damping was missing. When I got back in the workshop, the primary cause was obvious.

Next weekend is race in Norway. [emoji15]

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The rear shock was mounted in the pits in Våler, Norway. So far so good! On the first practise session the bike died randomly mid corners when giving some throttle. The water temp was only 50-55 degC, so I went into the pits to tape the coolers (outdoors was 11 degC). Out again and the coolant was appr. 65 degC, which is well over cold start sequence. Still the engine ran poorly during mid corner to exit acceleration. I decided to end the practise session and go into the pits. In the "esses" I had to give a lot throttle to keep the line when the engine was dying. This time the bike decided to delivery all those ponies I have worked so hard for! I highsided and got airborne before I could blink. So far so good. The landing, however, was not without consequences. The left collarbone, the left wrist and the right ankle was broken. The collarbone and wrist were left "as is", but I got a cast on my right foot! That is also a way to celebrate your birthday!

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