Swing Arm spindle removal

I have done this exact operation, and yes, corrosion is a part of it, as well as just a tight fit. Spray some penetrating oil on it, let it sit. I advise some light persuasion in the form of a drift/hammer or hammer that wil not damage the axle threaded end (rod, pivot bolt, whatever you wish to call it). My favorite tool is a rawhide mallet. A delrin block/hammer, wood drift/hammer, or similar tool combo will get it moving. When reinstalling, some anti-seize or silicone grease applied lightly on the axle will make the next removal easier.

I have had to cut one out of a Yamaha Warrior that a friend sent down a 200-300 foor embankment and bent the frame and that damn thing would not move no-mater what persuasion I used including heat penetrating fluid more head, Rawhide didn't work, 36oz Ballpein with a Alum Drift, Just the hammer, I f-ing tried everything and failed. I did win when I pulled out the SawZall. The part left in the swingarm just fell out... Never seen that before...

jwilly said:

I f-ing tried everything and failed. I did win when I pulled out the SawZall.

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Hey Jesse, will you work on my bike? What kind of drift do you use to remove a sparkplug?:lol:

log

At that point I would have used my ****** if I thought that little thing would help, Now Log, yours might have done the trick!

When you work on it, either lay the bike on the side or prop it up against a solid wall with the frame resting on something solid like a wood block right next to the bolt. This will really increase the effort of the blow and help a ton when removing the bolt
Hakan

this is my post from a previous thread about this subject;

had to deal with a seized pin recently but had managed to get both nuts off.

they tend to seized on the bearings in the swing arm rather than where it passes thru the rear of the motor.

the way i got it out was to heat up the swing arm as much as i dared then throw a bucket of water over it and use brute force to hammer the pin thru. (keep the nut on the side your hammering to start as it prevents the spindle from tuliping out, though it does wreck the nut) got it about half way out then with the bike layed over so the the side with the spindle sticking out is down i plugged the spindle and filled everything wil oil and left to soak for several hrs.

came back greased up the exposed spindle and knocked it back thru and out the other side.

it is rather frightening how hard you might actually have to hit it if it is really stuck.

the above worked for me and when i replaced everything i got the new spindle that only has a nut on 1 end.

I watched BOSS (Rick) pull mine and put a good shot of grease on mine when he was setting it up. What dealer does this?

Had exactly the same problem with my bike. My old man made up a puller for it with some threaded rod a bit of pipe some washers and nuts for the threaded rod .
I had been beating this thing for days with a rather large hammer (had to buy new swingarm pivot bolt)

What he did was put the threaded rod through the swing arm pivot bolt(it is hollow)t put a nut and washer on that end (washer is just the right size big enough to hold bolt but small enough to go through swing arm)
Then put the piece of pipe over the bolt with the threaded rod through the middle of it and put a washer and a nut on the end of the pipe and then you just do up the nut simply pulls it out

cheers Doug

PS: I will draw a diagram if you cant understand my babbling

Good work 44014, (good thinkin' 99)

would be a good diagram for the owners doc if Taff hasn't allready got someting like that there.

Azza.

Hakan said:

When you work on it, either lay the bike on the side or prop it up against a solid wall with the frame resting on something solid like a wood block right next to the bolt. This will really increase the effort of the blow and help a ton when removing the bolt
Hakan

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spot on hakan!

also, as the doc says: use oil not grease for the bearings. it'll last forever like this or not at all with grease!

remember troops that the bearing wasn't designed for oscillating backwards and forth over about 20 degrees. it was also designed to be oiled and not greased.

get it in your heads that these are proprietary parts we are on about here!

regards

Taffy