She dies on me!!!

Hinken · May 23, 2005

Well that did not work out well at all. I changed MJ to 162 and PJ to .45 and belive it or not it actually runs even worse now. I gave the accelerator pump a shoot but I could not find out how to disable it. Anyone got any ideas? I have all other adjustments in standard positions.
However I have not checked the valve-adjustments since I bought the bike. Is there any possibility that if they are poorly adjusted this could affect the problems described above?

Regards Henrik

Taffy · May 23, 2005

henrik

you give no details of how it ran badly and at what revs etc. difficult to help when the info is so poor. i don't even know what needle it is you're running?

if we are to have a proper 'crack' at this, we need all the info.

regards

Taffy

Hinken · May 23, 2005

Taffy, I tried the needle at the 4'th position as you said but the bike would hardly start at that setting. So I repositioned it to the 2'nd pos from the top (original setting). The bike dies on me at idle speed sometimes and at not even full throttle after idling. Otherwise everyting is adjusted as described earlier in this thread.

//Henrik

Taffy · May 23, 2005

the needle clip has nothing whatsoever to do with starting the bike up!

The bike dies on me at idle speed sometimes and at not even full throttle after idling

you mustn't judge your jetting from sitting on the paddock stand! it must be done whilst riding it. no bike reacts well on the paddock stand to the throttle being opened fully!

try clip 1 now.

i still don't know your needle?

regards

Taffy

madero · May 23, 2005

what is the temperature over there??

Normally 45-48 170---175 must do it.

Otherwise put it on a bench who measured your air-fuel ratio,then you are 90percent sure in those circumstances.

Hinken · May 25, 2005

Problem solved!!

The valves were not properly adjusted. I'm sorry to have botherd you all with this. Anyhow there ars just some small adjustments to be done now so I will get the sweetest ride around.

Many thanks

Henrik

Taffy · May 25, 2005

hinken

glad you got it running well. tappets are always a major issue here. they have to be done regularly or ... well at least you now know! :wink: :wink:

just a tip though mate. please put up your full jetting next time including your needle code please.

will we ever see you here again? :?: :?:

regards

Taffy

Hinken · May 26, 2005

Quote Arnold: "I'll be back".

About this needle code. Can you explain this to me. Is what kind of needle or just what position the clip is in?

Are there any threads here about tricks and hints when adjusting the tappets, it took me and my friend a good bit over two Hrs.

//Henrik

Taffy · May 26, 2005

your owners book will have all the carb settings written down for you. go see!

the numbers are on the needle. it'll start 'OC' and then three more letters. what are they? need all your jetting.

the clip is not important. first things first-what is the code?

tappets?

like everything, you'll get quicker! pays to remove the breather, turn the engine by having it in gear and turning the rear tyre. little things like that!

we just turn the tappet to closed and then an 1/8 turn back. i use a a 'chubby' (short and fat) screwdriver-i pull the rod out that has 'flat blade' at one end and 'philips' at the other. i also have a stepped 10mm spanner.

i use an old allen key that came free with a furniture package from IKEA it is 'S' shaped and #4. this undoes the rocker cover caps.

regards

Taffy

Basse · May 27, 2005

Taffy said:
we just turn the tappet to closed and then an 1/8 turn back. i use a a 'chubby' (short and fat) screwdriver-i pull the rod out that has 'flat blade' at one end and 'philips' at the other. i also have a stepped 10mm spanner.

i use an old allen key that came free with a furniture package from IKEA it is 'S' shaped and #4. this undoes the rocker cover caps.

regards

Taffy

Is 1/8 turn equal to 0,12mm?

Reg
Tomas

sandskipper · May 27, 2005

Basse,

I would recommend that you go to the downloads section of the site and find the "Hard start guide". In there you should find much useful information on baselineing your ride.

There is a detailed section on the "1/8 turn method" of adjusting tappets.

3/4 of a flat of the locking nut = 1/8 turn of the tappet screw.
*this is equal to .1mm OR .004"

Regards,
Keith

Taffy · May 27, 2005

basse

the pitch is .75mm and not 1mm as you may think. so 1/8th of .75 is about .1mm or .004".

regards

Taffy

Hinken · Jun 10, 2005

I am sorry to bother you all again, but it seems like I have not solved the problem at all. The bike was running better but not perfect so I Thought I would have it profetionally benchmarked and adjusted. (You were right about the jetting Taffy, Mj 155, and Pj .40 were the result after the dynojet bench).

However the problem still stands, she tends to die on me as soon as the engine reaches working temp. The mechanic that adjusted the carb reckons it is the ingnition that's bothering me.

What happen is this: When warm; at idling it stalls, it sounds as if the engine misses like every third stroke or so. And att low revs it runs really poorly in second and first gear. And most important, the problem is getting worse the warmer the engine gets.

Question: What are the most common errors with the ignition system on the -04's 650 bergs. The CDI-box should be alright.

Regards Henrik

Taffy · Jun 10, 2005

it could be one of two things;

1) the ignition is overly ********. i suggest that you scribe a new line for Top Dead Centre and start from there. it was 8d out on my bike which is enormous!

2) your needle straight is too small. they need at least an R if not an S and i run a T. check your needle code. it should say OB E * *. the last letter is the one we are interested in.

good luck

Taffy

She dies on me!!!

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