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BundyBear said:
nsman said:
red-black=3k ohms
green-black=168 ohms
both readings + or - 10%
Click to expand...

sparks said:
...Regarding the disscuion on the KTM SEM stator fitting on the Husaberg, anything pre 1999 will work as the KTM stator had the same resistances, but from 1999 to 2003 The resistance changed to 3000 Ohms source and 165 Ohms trigger........
Click to expand...
Sorry to reopen an old thread, but the difference between stators up to 1998 from those from 1999 to 2003 has been hinted on by Sparks, but I can't find anywhere that the differences are made obvious. The resistances above refer only to the '99-03 stator. As best I can tell, The Doc quotes these only and may mislead people with earlier bikes.

Apologies if it has already been covered & I just can't find it....

Last night I was replying to dz1 about his stator in this thread and compared the service manuals for the '98 and '99 models.

Resistances quoted for the 1998 model are:
Red-to-Black = 1.7 k ohms
Green-to-Black = 27 ohms
Both readings are + or - 10%

These resistances are and most likely the same for them all back to 1989.

NOTE THIS IS QUITE DIFFERENT TO THAT FOR THE 1999 TO 2003 MODEL ABOVE!

There was a significant change in the ignition between these two years. The '98 stator bolts to the crankcase, the '99 bolts to the outer side cover. I guess the gizzards of the stators must be completely different as well.
Click to expand...

Hi Brad,

Just been through the electrical section and 3/4's of the way down the page there is a box with both pre99 and 99 to 03 resistance readings.

Regards

Sparks.
 
BundyBear said:
..Apologies if it has already been covered & I just can't find it....
Click to expand...
Thanks & sorry for that. I got thru the first bit of stator info, but when it started discussing other stuff I left off without going right to the end. :oops:

Maybe the next rev could include a note in the first section on SEM to see further down as well?
 
Does Sparks still repair old stators?

My flywheel starts to get rusty, on the middelbolt... and is starting to get cracks around the sides... and the same with the stator...it cracks more and more... and a bit rusty too..

As I get it the weak point is the stator... if the bolt on the stator is a bit rusty doesn´t mean that much.. am I right?

Could you buy those two separately or do you need to buy them in pair? Stator and flywheel that is...

Best regards

Rikard
 
you meedn't worry abouit your last point because sparks is still working, infact he now has to pay for his holiday so visit his website, get his addy and send it down.

regards

Taffy
 
Taffy said:
you meedn't worry abouit your last point because sparks is still working, infact he now has to pay for his holiday so visit his website, get his addy and send it down.

regards

Taffy
Click to expand...

Oki, I´ll take that as I´m correct about the stator to be the important thing and a flywheel that´s a bit rusty and cracked isn ´t that bad...???

I´ll contact Sparks....

Thanks!
 
diode???

hey

i have a husaberg fe 501 1995 with n o spark on the plugg

can any1 tell me something about the diod solder'd to the stator
got some problems with that (i think) i cant read the value of it (faded)

i have tried

disconect the orange from ignitioncoil
new plugg

black-red=3008 ohm's
black-green=174 ohm's
yellow-blue=1 ohm

tested the stator and flyweel in the lathe (or what you call it (i call it svarv ) :D )
and i got
black-red=33,3Vac at 1200 rpm
black-green=13Vac at 1200 rpm

geting around 4-10 Vac if i kick, is that enough ti get a spark ?

the thing is that the stator coils is rewinded and i may konekted em wrong as i get that low Vac

conected the ingoing to ground and outgoing to ingoing (confusing isn'it :? )on the next coil and so on

regards

husabärg
 
Re: diode???

husabärg said:
hey

i have a husaberg fe 501 1995 with n o spark on the plugg

can any1 tell me something about the diod solder'd to the stator
got some problems with that (i think) i cant read the value of it (faded)

i have tried

disconect the orange from ignitioncoil
new plugg

black-red=3008 ohm's
black-green=174 ohm's
yellow-blue=1 ohm

tested the stator and flyweel in the lathe (or what you call it (i call it svarv ) :D )
and i got
black-red=33,3Vac at 1200 rpm
black-green=13Vac at 1200 rpm

geting around 4-10 Vac if i kick, is that enough ti get a spark ?

the thing is that the stator coils is rewinded and i may konekted em wrong as i get that low Vac

conected the ingoing to ground and outgoing to ingoing (confusing isn'it :? )on the next coil and so on

regards

husabärg
Click to expand...

Hi Husabarg,

Welcome to the sight, which part of the world are you from?.
Firstly the Diode can not be tested through the stator leads, only when the stator is disassembled can you do this, the diode is there to cap the output voltage so it doesn't over voltage.
On a kick you should be looking at 30 to 40 vac across Black and Red.

Secondly your year is 1995, you have the readings for the later type of stator 1999 to 2003. The reading you require is Black to Red 1750 and Black to Green 23 Ohms.

And thirdly from what you have said the coils are connected incorrectly. The direction in which the coils are wound also has a bearing on it's function.

Regards

Sparks.
 
RE: Re: diode???

hey
thanks for your reply
im from sweden

rofl so i got all the coils wounded wrong for my year got the info of aguy here from sweden that rides the same year as me so he probably mixed the years or something

well how the coils are connected is hard to describe but i give it a try

the first round on the coil closest to the diod is grounded then the top round out from the coil is connected to the first round on the 2nd from diode and so on , and the last round on the 4th coil is connected to the red wire solder spott

and the direction well how to translate that :?

they are wounded clockwise and the start and stopp closest to center of the stator if that makes any sense :doubt:

regards

me ;)
 
Re: RE: Re: diode???

husabärg said:
hey
thanks for your reply
im from sweden

rofl so i got all the coils wounded wrong for my year got the info of aguy here from sweden that rides the same year as me so he probably mixed the years or something

well how the coils are connected is hard to describe but i give it a try

the first round on the coil closest to the diod is grounded then the top round out from the coil is connected to the first round on the 2nd from diode and so on , and the last round on the 4th coil is connected to the red wire solder spott

and the direction well how to translate that :?

they are wounded clockwise and the start and stopp closest to center of the stator if that makes any sense :doubt:

regards

me ;)
Click to expand...

Husabarg, I think you also have the later type stator here, you say the diode is next to the first coil you have grounded, which is to the right of the four coils when looking down at the stator, the pre 99 stators have the diode to the left, next to the coil where you connect the red lead to.

The direction of winding is, if you are looking straight down at coil through the hole where it sits over the laminations then you want to be winding on the wire in a clockwise direction.
Your connections need to be, start to start finish to finish, not start to finish.

Regards

Sparks.
 
hey

this is how i mean by coil 1,2,3,4 see pic if it works :doubt:

ok then the winding direction is ok but i think the connecton is way wrong :?
did a test for every each coil and got more power out of the first coil than i get out of "all 4" red-black

diode (see pic)
now you maby understand why i wanna know the vallue of the diode as its pretty damaged and the pices i have of it are so out faded so i cant see the text :O

regards

me
 

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husabärg said:
hey

this is how i mean by coil 1,2,3,4 see pic if it works :doubt:

ok then the winding direction is ok but i think the connecton is way wrong :?
did a test for every each coil and got more power out of the first coil than i get out of "all 4" red-black

diode (see pic)
now you maby understand why i wanna know the vallue of the diode as its pretty damaged and the pices i have of it are so out faded so i cant see the text :O

regards

me
Click to expand...

Yes you have the correct stator, the diode you require, IN4007 will work OK. Don't forget to resolder the earth tag that sits near the diode. Good luck.

Regards

Sparks.
 
husabärg said:
hey

this is how i mean by coil 1,2,3,4 see pic if it works :doubt:

ok then the winding direction is ok but i think the connecton is way wrong :?
did a test for every each coil and got more power out of the first coil than i get out of "all 4" red-black

diode (see pic)
now you maby understand why i wanna know the vallue of the diode as its pretty damaged and the pices i have of it are so out faded so i cant see the text :O

regards

me
Click to expand...

Yes you have the correct stator, the diode you require, IN4007 will work OK. Don't forget to resolder the earth tag that sits near the diode. Good luck.

Regards

Sparks.
 
husabärg said:
hey

Correct stator "confused" for my year (1750 ohm)

Or for the 3k ohm model ? :?

Regards

Me
Click to expand...

You have the correct stator for your year from the photo, 1750 and 23 Ohms for this year.

Regards

Sparks.
 
hey and manny thaks for your help think im about to sort it now :D

just the dierection of the diode that confuses me now if i get it right it should let the power go to ground if theres to much power so the gray stripe on earth side.......... or am i out sailing on that one too :?
 
husabärg said:
hey and manny thaks for your help think im about to sort it now :D

just the dierection of the diode that confuses me now if i get it right it should let the power go to ground if theres to much power so the gray stripe on earth side.......... or am i out sailing on that one too :?
Click to expand...

Your comment about the diode is correct, the stripe to the earth side, apart from me winding the bloody thing you now have all the correct info.
Just the reliability stands in your way. Good luck.

Regards

Sparks.
 
got a spark like a thunderbolt =)

but 2 broken kick-leavers on 1 evening :(

so what can be the problem for that happening ?

have ben trying and experimenting some and ended up with the stator as far right as possible and removed the woodruff key and moved the flywheel 2-3mm to the left,

and it started on the first kick

have spoken with 2 previous owners and both says it was very hard started with some broken kick gearwheels

decomp works
valve clearance OK

any idea ?

regards

husabärg
 
RE: got a spark like a thunderbolt =)

get the bloody ignition strobed!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

if i got my bike running i'd have it stropbed in seconds. no way would i sit there and look at it.

strobe it. strobe it. strobe it! get the proper TDC marked and strobe the phucking thing. strobe it ok?

strobe it!

regards

Taffy
 
RE: got a spark like a thunderbolt =)

Taffy, did you mean he ought to strobe it? :)
 

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