Rekluse clutches

According to Rekluse, the problem lies in the torque curve of the bigger bikes. They've determined that on the FE650, their clutch is only at 65% plate pressure when the torque curve begins to peak.

I don't think you're going to have the same problem with your FE501, or Taffy with his 400 (I think). It's not that these bikes don't have the HP of the 650, as much as when that power comes on. The clutch needs to be spinning fast enough to hold everything together.

The changes between '04-05 and the older clutch is pretty insignificant. In fact you need a good set of calipers just to measure the difference. You can actually fit an '04 clutch basket into the earlier bikes, it just makes a hell of a lot of noise... probably not a good thing.

Hey Berger - Close your eyes, get out the credit card, and call Revloc. You'll be glad you did... the difference is truely night and day. Your Rekluse is good for about $300 on ebay.

You dont have to sell me on Revloc, I'm a fan already . Unfortunately my credit card and I are not on speaking terms currently

When I got my z-start they included belleville washers in z-start kits for bikes with clutch hydraulics.
But not in the RMS125 Rev. 3.000 kit which is the version I got. That made me a bit worried since the Husa 2000 is equipped with hydraulics. Rekluse got an e-mail where I pointed out this inconsistency and Sean kindly wrote back and said I could get a belleville washer from him but as it went, he didn't send one.
Surely I could get one locally from a spring company. Only problem is that the dimensions are unknown to me. The inner dia. is something like 16mm according to rekluse instructions but what's the outer diameter. And spring thickness and material thickness? Anyone of you guys who can measure your belleville spring?

what's a belleville spring fella?

and what's a husa 2000?

a RMS125 Rev. 3.000 kit?

regards

taffy

ok, duriong my engine rebuild i decided to have the top of the 6 spires in the clutch drum machined equally as opposed to the rekluse option of using a plate and a file to get them all down to the same size.

glad i did! for the first time for months i can get neutral again!

fitting a rekluse? get the drum MACHINED if i were you!

regards

Taffy

I milled the spring towers, didn't file them.
The Husaberg is a FE400 motorcycle from the year of 2000.
(I deliberately avoid the full H-word since it will be replaced with the silly graphical H-word in this forum)
The RMS125 Rev. 3.000 kit is the third generation z-start kit intended for elderly Husaberg.
It may be that you got a British installation guide where the Belleville spring is called something more British, perhaps simply a disc spring? Or You may have gotten the same kit as me, where the Belleville disc spring is not included. If you, or any one for that matter, have got one of those disc springs for the z-start, would you measure it please?, it would be of great help if I'm going to get one from another source than Recluse.
BTW have a look at Smalley for clutch pressure plate springs, you'll find the same springs there as those included in the z-start kit.
Cheers

Taffy, download the latest Installation Guide from Rekluse for the RMS125, the z-start clutch kit for Husaberg 89-03. The Belleville spring is there now!

you'll find the reference 'wave spring' all over this thread but at least we should understand each other now!

i have a 2" and a 1.5" wave spring. i believe i have a small and a tall 2" wave spring actually so i guess that's three!

please check all the way through this thread smorgy.

BTW-where are you from?

sweden if i had to guess...

regards

taffy

Taffy, I guess that the "smorgasbord" gave me away... :lol:
I don't know why they call the disc spring a Belleville spring while they at the same time call the Smalley spring a wave spring. Out of habit perhaps? It doesn't matter to me which ever it may be anyway, I'm more interested in the Belleville disk spring dimensions.
I like the z-start but it is not perfect. I does show a hesitation to engagement of the cluth (unless you really hit the throttle) as well as a hesitation to disengagement. It is still works.

smorgy

the springs are 2" = 51mm and 1.5" = 38mm.

they're only 4mm wide material so the holes in the middle will be 43mm and 30mm.

height i can no longer tell you more than one as the other two are in the engine right now. however i have to work on the kickstart this week so i'll measure it for you then.

but listen, the UK importer has joined this site and asked one Q!!!

prosupermoto is higher up this thread so drop him a PM.

talk to you later in the week.

regards

Taffy

Taffy, you did probably not get the Belleville disc spring either. Otherwise you would have known what spring I meant. You are still on the wave springs. As opposed to the Smalley wave springs the Belleville disc spring is in the throw-out department, protecting from a failure that possibly may occur. However, Taffy, I am impressed by the generosity of offering to open the clutch to measure the springs for me who is a total stranger to you, that is definitely true generosity!
Quoting Sean Brown at Rekluse: "...the belleville washer is meant to protect the hydraulic system from "pump up"..."
I'm not sure what actually will happen when you get the "pump up" but I would guess that it means that your clutch comes out through the clutch cover. It could also be that the Belleville is there to quench a false reputation for the z-start being able to do the "pump up", that it is a cure for a non existing problem, purely a placebo spring. 8) But it is hard to tell.
But if you don't have the Belleville disc spring and the clutch takes your cluth cover off, you'll know it wasn't placebo after all! :shock:
If anyone knows the proper dimensions of the Belleville disc spring I would highly appreciate if you would let me know what those dimensions are.

I got one in my kit but wont be able to measure it uo for you untill I have clutch apart next time.

Cheers Horto

The Belleville spring is the small concave washer.

That's the one and they come in different sizes. Inner diameter is given in the Rekluse manuals but outer diameter and material thickness are not, nor the height of it.
Cheers

It's funny in the manual from germany the belleville spring washer is there.

In the American manual it is not.

well i see it mentioned in items and i see it described as fitted but i can't see it and it ain't in the exploded diagram?

so...

Taffy

Taffy, that's exactly my reaction too. Do you want a prophylactic Belleville placebo spring washer too or do you want to live with the risk of getting your clutch struck by "pump up"? Take my words for it, doomsday is here, we are all going to get the horrid hydraulic "pump up", we are all going to get it unless we get the prophylactic Belleville placebo spring washer. Yes, all of us! But what are the dimensions, where are those to be found, who will save us all by providing the right dimensions, the dimensions that will save us, will save us before it is too late, before we are struck by the feared "pump up"! Who will save us, the brave hero who will tear apart his own beloved Husaberg engine, tear it apart and measure the dimensions, all for the good of the rest of us, for the good of our clutch covers. etc... So Taffy, you are absolutely right!

You can see it in the 04 diagram. I dont know why they show 2.
http://www.rekluse.com/downloads/husaberg04-082604.PDF

Yes, and the parts list is listing one. Again a bit funny...

just to keep you all updated. check the date of this post. it's some 8-months later...

well i found neutral easily for a little while and then it started to disappear again. i can't see where i've mentioned it but i pulled out the only oversize plate in there - at .2mm or .008" (8 thou) oversize. this gacve me back my neutral again and the bike was great. going into october and near the end of the season though i started to lose it again.

i fitted the later gear selector at one point in the autumn (the 'fall' or whatever that means!) and agin neutral was easier for a while.

come this year though, if it stalled in gear it wouldn't kick start easily. it was easier to bend down and find neutral with your hand due to having more 'feel' for the job and then start it.

neutral has again nbeen a sod to find and the problem was -what to do?

can't go any smaller on the friction plate? gap checked out at .044" (1.1mm).

by now you'll have gathered that

the mixture of tungsten and steel ball-bearings dictate the pick-up-and-lock of the engine.

the friction plates help you get the take up in the ball park.

the springs dictate the fine tuning of the pick-up point.

so i pulled out one of the two washers that were pressing on the outer spring. and now i can get neutral again!!!!

i think it's absurd that it needs this much adjustment and i wish i had the more modern sidecover for sure!

so it seems if you have drag the way to get rid of it is to reduce the pressure. washers act in a more finite way than the springs.

so:

set the gap at .048" (1.2mm)
use the springs to get close
the washers for finite adjustment.

ball bearings are for take-up-and-lock

complaints?
besides the continual adjustment i'd say that having 16 poxy tiny screws is a pain-mkII version please! also there is nothing in the outer plate to keep the inner spring in it's place. now from what i can gather, the inner spring was a bit of an after thought so we should forgive them for this but i trust that if rekluse have continued to make this that they have introduced a kerb to keep the inner spring positioned correctly.

regards

Taffy