Rekluse clutches

Taffy said:

come this year though, if it stalled in gear it wouldn't kick start easily. it was easier to bend down and find neutral with your hand due to having more 'feel' for the job and then start it.

neutral has again nbeen a sod to find and the problem was -what to do?Taffy

Click to expand...

"The best-laid schemes o' mice an' men
Gang aft agley,
An' lea'e us nought but grief an' pain,
For promised joy."
It may be the friction in the ball bearing ramps that causes this phenomenon. At merely 15 degrees of slope it takes some vibration from the running engine to slip the balls back from and out of their wedged in fully engaged position. They recommend Delo 400 for the recluse and it has been difficult to obtain in many parts of europe. As I went from one brand of 5W-50 to another, Mobil 1 - 5W-50, I can now kick start in gear after a stall. The mobil one oil is much more slippery than the previous oil. The annoying delay in the recluse was with that simple step reduced to an acceptable level and the gear changes got more distinct. Before the oil change I was considering altering the ramp inclination to 20 degrees and adding some more TC balls, now I won't bother.

Taffy said:

also there is nothing in the outer plate to keep the inner spring in it's place. now from what i can gather, the inner spring was a bit of an after thought so we should forgive them for this but i trust that if rekluse have continued to make this that they have introduced a kerb to keep the inner spring positioned correctly.
Taffy

Click to expand...

The inner wavy spring may get out of center a little bit and it is not pretty but I doubt it matters in practice.
Did anyone take the dimensions of the throw-out "belleville" spring washers? I have still no "belleville" on my throw-out. We know that the "belleville" is an after thought too and I canna see that the belleville is centered either.

If you look close at them, the ball races, or ramps, they have got a progressive curve where the about the 0.75 mm minimum plate gap is taken up at the highest possible rate before the plates engage. What if you run the clutch at 1.1 mm play?, couldn't you afford increasing the depth of the progressive part with as much as 0.4 mm using a ball end drill? Or would it mean that you could use 1.5 mm of plate gap.

i've found .044" to .048" or as you might say 1.1 to 1.2mm to be the best. i'm not trying anymore unnecassary experiments-simple as that!

i started the bike and touched the throttle and the bike just rolled off-sweet as a nut! great advert!

it even started in gear again today. neutral? still a pig!

regards

Taffy

Travel is limited in other areas of the recluse, and thus the ball end drill drill does probably not work. But the oil trick does and dramatically so, the recluse is very picky on oil. The clutch gave sometimes off some eerie howling sounds :shock: at about 4 to 5 hours on mobil 1 but thereafter no peculiar phenomena at all, knock on wood, it has soaked in properly in the friction plates by now and now I'm very happy with it.
I run mine, a FE400, at about 0.80 mm of plate gap, 15 steel balls and 15 TC balls.
I just want to add that as the reaction time of the recluse got much faster w. the Mobil One 5W-50, the stalls are now very much more rare and when they still do occur, the kickstarting in gear is much more easy.

From the other post i started just for FYI

risky1 said:

Well I got my Rekluse for my 04 550 and installed it last night. Bike started right up with no drag at all, idles great and seems to have good hook up (no slipping) however, I opted to keep the clutch lever but it does absolutly nothing at the moment. limp throughout the pull. the bike is also a bit difficult to up shift. It will do it but not cleanly like as with the clutch lever.

I also get a squeal when I am a gear or two high and give it some throttle.

any suggestions?

current set up is as per the install instructions with just replacing the top two stock steel plates with the rekluse plates and 1 tungsten 1 steel all the way around. except for I am using the shorter wave spring and one washer for the low rpm engagement. Just FYI the clutch only has about 8 hours on it.

Thanks

Click to expand...

Okay so not being able to find neutral is not a big issue as I have not found it while in idle on any berg. but having the really hard/stiff upshifts into second and third are really bugging me. can someone explain to me why that would have changed and what I can do about it.

Wow!! Am I glad I use the RevLoc clutch. The RevLoc is well worth the extra initial cost. Once it is installed you basically never have to worry about it. No stalls ever; no lurching; engine easily starts in neutral; no periodic maintenance required; smooth progressive engagement and disengagement; etc.

What he said... :iagree:

You may try a 10/50 synthetic as well as give it a little break in time. I had about 10 hours on my bike before installing the clutch.
As the others have stated the Revlock seems to be the superior product, but man the price is a killer.

Well, I spoke with the tech support, they state that the stiff upshifting is due to driver input not the clutch... I can see part of that issue being legit but how much should I have to let off the throttle before upshifting? I don't want RPM's dropping back to idle before it engages the next gear. I would'nt think it would need to be much more that as when I used the mnaul clutch.... we'll see. if I can't get it working as I want it to, I will use the 30 Day return policy and send it back.

risky1 said:

From the other post i started just for FYI

risky1 said:

Well I got my Rekluse for my 04 550 and installed it last night. Bike started right up with no drag at all, idles great and seems to have good hook up (no slipping) however, I opted to keep the clutch lever but it does absolutly nothing at the moment. limp throughout the pull. the bike is also a bit difficult to up shift. It will do it but not cleanly like as with the clutch lever.

I also get a squeal when I am a gear or two high and give it some throttle.

any suggestions?

current set up is as per the install instructions with just replacing the top two stock steel plates with the rekluse plates and 1 tungsten 1 steel all the way around. except for I am using the shorter wave spring and one washer for the low rpm engagement. Just FYI the clutch only has about 8 hours on it.

Thanks

Click to expand...

Okay so not being able to find neutral is not a big issue as I have not found it while in idle on any berg. but having the really hard/stiff upshifts into second and third are really bugging me. can someone explain to me why that would have changed and what I can do about it.

Click to expand...

Similar story here. My Rekluse got installed when I had only 3 hours on the motor, and the shifting was slightly notchy anyway. Upshifting now requires me to be quite forceful with "Husey Galore" (her new name.) However, I do get some shifting help by manually operating the clutch lever. The lever itself has no feeling, but it definitely offers just enough extra for shifting. I don't see returning the clutch even if the shifting stays the same, because I didn't get the clutch for more convenient shifting during most shifting.

I do think I'll go to Delo 400 after I finish a few more break-in hours on full moto specific synth.

Throttle action should be not much different from previous. Back off a split second and shift. As long as I am not WFO I dont have a problem shifting.

berger said:

Throttle action should be not much different from previous. Back off a split second and shift. As long as I am not WFO I dont have a problem shifting.

Click to expand...

That what I think as well... We will see... after i break it in...

Okay, I gave up. I have tried every possible combination of setup I could imagine, as well as the tech help at rekluse. shifting gears into third on up just got worse with time. I played endlessly with install gaps and such... with clutch lever or no clutch lever. I know I know it sounds like a burr on the drum or shift fork issue, but...

I reinstalled the OEM clutch and it works like new... go figure. I am getting my money back and will consider the revloc :roll: because I really liked 1-2 gear with the rekluse....

hopefully with the altered (filed clutch parts) I can get a revloc to install.

Risky1,
Relavent thread:
http://www.husaberg.org/modules.php?nam ... ed+shifter

Dale

risky1 said:

hopefully with the altered (filed clutch parts) I can get a revloc to install.

Click to expand...

anybody know the answer to this....?

For what it may be worth:
Nothing has changed in the transmission and / or shift mechanism as a result of installing an automatic clutch assembly.

Most are inclined to ride the bike differently as a result of said installation hence a change in shift technique.

Such is really quite common and does indeed have more to do with rider input then that of a mechanical change regarding (loaded) throttle upshifts.

Dale

LINEAWEAVER said:

For what it may be worth:
Nothing has changed in the transmission and / or shift mechanism as a result of installing an automatic clutch assembly.

Most are inclined to ride the bike differently as a result of said installation hence a change in shift technique.

Such is really quite common and does indeed have more to do with rider input then that of a mechanical change regarding (loaded) throttle upshifts.

Dale

Click to expand...

I agree with that. I must be a stubborn dog. however I really made it a point to try and re-learn my technique. No matter how much or how little I would back of the throttle before shifting, 3rd 4th and 5th gear litterally had to be kicked into submission. if I was lucky enough to get it into 3rd or above it would not down shift intill the rpms were almost back at idle. It makes no sense to me especially since when I installed the oem it worked fine.

I rode an 04 KTM 525 with a rekluse and had none of thses issues, so I really do not know what to think. I had that guy help me out with the adjustments and such and we were both at a loss.

I am not saying that it HAS to be the unit itself, in fact I believe that it must have more to do with the driver, but it seems that results are hit an miss with the rekluse unit. and it should not be this much of a pain to dial in.

The OEM Husaberg clutch slips a bit when heavily loaded. The Automatics are less inclined in particularly when tuned for a low engagement rpm.

Dale

latest news for my rekluse

i fitted a complete set of new plates this week and didn't change any of the ball bearings or springs etc. i took a risk and it paid off! the measured gap was around .025"-.028" yet it still worked well. initially i had some clutch drag as the recommended minimum is .030".

regards

Taff

Okay,

after some soul searching, I have decided that IT HAS TO BE some type of installation error or debris somewhere that is causing it to act this way.

does anyone have pictures of what a good drum and fork look like as opposed to one that is creating a problem? and how much debris can cause a problem? I did not see any debris when i pulled this thing numerous times...

thanks Takis for the rekluse installation photos...