Paolo6 a new start

The clutch stiffness is sorted

-I did open and check the ISR clutch for any dirt/damage or old oil but it was perfect

bleed from slave cylinder ( still stiff)
Bleed it from master cylinder to slave (again was stiff)

Then

I remember about a chart that compared leverage vs piston dimension so I bring the leverage all the way down and it worked the clutch was fine

A good thing about ISR is that I can use the clutch as a brake and the other way round by turning the lever

So my 15.5 (on minimum levarage) is now the clutch and the 17.8 is the brake

I believe that the master cylinder was way too big on the clutch and it did increse his stiffness dramatically by pushing too much oil ...I didn't actually expect it ( kind of ) but not at that level

2 weeks time I will be working on the swingarm eating...just waiting for parts delivery

I was bored ...so this might be the first metal oil pump in the husaberg ...I will also be milling 2mm the cover and fit the 12mm oil pump from the rfs

it's been a while. I have been busy with life in general as I bought a house and I finally have my own garage

...I Try to again to work on the lectron this year but I kind of give up on it (it runs ok a bit rich) but it's not what an improvement over the FCR.

I did improve radiator cooling by adding some oversize radiator from a KX 125 2003 you only need to cut 2 nozzle and weld them to the front. Been out for a ride and parked my bike went to garage and I grabbed my temperature laser gun to check temperature and it was 53°, it also contains 2lt of water rather then the husaberg 1-1.2 lt

I will be working on EFI my bike by using the throttle body from a ktm rc8
I have already started some of the work but for now I will get all the parts for it and in winter I will finish it ... The husaberg intake is 47mm and the rc8 is 57 I will have to port it and weld it (I will finish it soon)

for timing I will use the original flywheel but I will machine it and add a 36-1 trigger wheel

and for sensor I need MAP, air temperature and water temperature , and TPS

October/November time it should be done

kx 125 2003 rad ...

ps. weld them on the other side as show in picture

okay left my job at BAE system and finally I got one working on CNC for mostly rally car ...EFI is still going strong i made a few changes to the head, the valves went from 36/31 to 38/33 using the polaris as bushmechanic suggested

what i found.

-they are too long to fit 38mm are 102.3 long and 33 are 103.00 long

-so i machine them about 2mm and kept the original grove at the same length as original husaberg one (38 were 100.2 and 33 100.5)
that didn't work

- the only way was to machine them even more so the exhaust(33) have become now 98 long and intake(38 ) 97mm long (that was because the original grove was in the way and couldn't be any higher

the only issue i could think of is the hardening of the tip but i will check it and report it, I don't think it will be a problem also the elephant foot on the rocker arms act similar to a lash cap.
On the CNC also it didn't show any difference on the record between the multiple face off of the valves (wasn't a massive cut) but the hardening hasn't change much


-DTA is the ECU i am going for
-I am using the original flywheel and had a ring water jet cut and welded with 36 -1 teeth
-all sensor are the same as ktm (air temp, water temp and flywheel is original)
-an adapter has been made to fit the RC8 throttle body, the head had to be over ported to fit it (but it should be working 100% fine with the bigger valves)
-pump is the Walbro GSL414 with the fuel pressure regulator from a car

valve spring i went with ktm ATV but possibly move back to the kibblewhite as i don't want any float with the bigger valves


Just need to bring it to the dyno only the brain is missing, and to check all the wiring most of it is done, just need checking and sorting

thanks a lot

yes both wider and shorter(2.5cm) for the 5.5 wheel
the company i contacted is this one, they also make the aly tank

Personalizzazione Moto Design Tuning Motociclette

on goggle it does say permanently close??? if they dont answer let me know and I will give you some other contacts

----

to anybody else thinking where am I with the bike...I have been stock with the corona virus as I was going in February to an electrician to help me out in regards to the ignition wiring and that close down for a few moths also all the dyno close down

now I finally finish it (2 weeks ago ish)

I have started 3d printing quite a few parts to make my bike fit with everything also making a intake similar to MTR use for their ktm but i will update a few info when is done and all the file to make it happen

hey no problem

I payed just over 1k as (uk pound) 1200 euros ish

I don't think MTR makes their swingarm and just buy them from the same guy and charge a little bit more for profit

again if they don't answer let me know and i will PM more info to contact

On the Husaberg 650 I fitted the KX because they look like they were the easiest to fit but that doesn't stop you to fit any other radiator (the KX need some welding and bit of fiddling but they do fit)

you need to remember that you have both IN and OUT water from the same side of engine
also the water flow should make sense? what i mean the water have to flow all the way in the radiator

if you thinking of fitting the husaberg 570 rad... the picture i made show there is a lot more to do

but I can't say they can or can't be better in terms of cooling KX vs 570.. the KX are bigger then the husaberg 650 (they keep more water) and also they keep the water on the side of the frame not those 5cm that are useless because the frame block all air in the middle

any question just ask

side air intake is finish... i think 3d printing is getting good as it's a dead bike and anyone can have the info to make/develop parts

on the page 6 post 66 by me on this tread i posted a picture using a rubber 90* for the air intake boot that could have worked but it was crap

---so i got to 3d printing with the plan to make the air boot in 2 parts (split in half so one right and one left side) in hard plastic(ABS) and bolt them together to fit my throttle body and frame

that didn't work ... as much as I could be close to the set up, was never 100% right and it didn't work

---later on i found this material

(Python Flex™ Black
High-performance flexible TPU
3 Customer Ratings
Perfect combination of strength, flexibility & elasticity
Good chemical resistance
Heat resistant: up to 138 ° C

the heat resistant is the main goal as most TPU (flexible plastic weren't heat resistant and that's important) it flex and there is no difference then the standard air boot (same)

that fixed my goal as I was able to print it in one peace that would fit perfectly and being flexible as any other air boot

the file I upload It won't fit your bike the side peace will and the air boot top ...the other side was meant for my bike(efi not FCR) and i don't know the angle and length on the original husaberg but with little work it can be reworked

as set up i am using and ender 3 with micro swiss hot end (i upload the file of my set up)

the TPU was printed at 230 with speed of 25
and ABS was at 250 with speed of 40
if i remember them correctly


with this info the air intake boot even out of production it can be remade it won't be the same quality/resistance of the original one i think(it would be like billet vs cast) but it's a really good alternative

ps. i use fusion 360 for drawing file here

https://1drv.ms/u/s!AglE4VB8Ec-wv2JN3Z7eJSTr2QKn?e=B4WocV

I haven't done any measurements...and I won't be working on the bike for a few moths as my house got flooded ....i just done it because with the rc8 throttle body the angle wasn't looking great (it was restricting the air) the side peace i made is also on an angle and it shouldn't effect the flow in any bad way ....but with the standard frc41 and not many modifications on the engine it's not needed

Ps. A friend of mine who raced in the tt with his kawasaki 1000 told me he could get 2/3 hp from the air induction but those bikes do 150 mph so it won't do much or anything on the husaberg unless there is a problem like a restriction


Best air intake are from F1 or those formula student car but they won't fit in the husaberg

If you goggle formula student air intake simulator it show how the flow is predicted


Drc did try a few air boxed i think ( i haven't) he is best to look at ( but he is not using the original frame )

Nice stuff ...and example with 3d printig tpu is that you could make the air boot for your bike with that carb or it can be used to convert the husaberg to accept any other carb...

Yes making a force air induction it's not beneficial unless there is a restriction

I did try the pipercross filter but it was too close to my exhaust system (i have on both side)

I bought this one and it was fitting well
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/352081913442
But you need to get the 50/60? Id version ( the one that fit the od of the carb)

Let me know if you need more info have fun sorting it out

actually when i was in work i was thinking you could make an angled adapter to fit

i just made 2 quick drawing on cad (really quick) but they give you the idea ....if you using fusion 360 you can easily edit them

and you could contact a 3d printing shop and have the part made (it won't cost a lot) I can't do it because mine got flooded in water and until the insurance pay i won't buy one but i can do the job in the next 2/3 month

also i can suggest to use an hard plastic like abs or other and use an inner tube from a bicycle cut from the carb od to the 3d printed plastic

https://1drv.ms/u/s!AglE4VB8Ec-wv3FV_WPGUvWer9f8?e=dczQk6

it can be done and you will avoid cutting the frame