ok im taking the plunge!!

I would double check your ignition timing...sounds like you are too advanced to me...

put a tow rope around your right footrest and have a go at a bump start.

many a time this is all they really need. get them going, warm them up and they're fine.

good luck

Taffy

McMucker said:

clearances are .1mm for intake and exhaust valves?
Is there anything I should be careful or aware of?

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.1mm is correct for my '02. Not sure if the newer bikes are different. You'll need a narrow feeler gauge with a bend on the end or you may end up doing it by the 1/8 turn method.

Things to be careful of? Yes, be careful what you stick in the sparkplug hole to fine top dead center! :shock:



Logjump

Taffy said:

put a tow rope around your right footrest and have a go at a bump start.

good luck

Taffy

Click to expand...

It may not want to start as it's being drug down the road on it's side. :wink:



Log

If this is at TDC, yes, it's advanced. It needs to align with the left mark, as per the manual.

Download the Husaberg video #4 from the download section. It shows how to set your timing.

Also download the user's manual from www.husaberg.se.

Yes, you're right but advancing the timing sometimes helps. You indeed are slightly advanced. But it may not be bad.

This is how mine is set, but I have no chance moving the stator to adjust anyway. And yes, the bike starts. It was me, not the bike

le frog

that is TDC you're at there. the engine turns clockwise when looking at it from the right.

you can move your stator but what you mean to tell everyone is that yours is stuck!

regards

Taffy

Taffy said:

le frog

that is TDC you're at there. the engine turns clockwise when looking at it from the right.

you can move your stator but what you mean to tell everyone is that yours is stuck!

regards

Taffy

Click to expand...

That's correct and it shows that being in advance (as I am, on the left mark) is not totally bad. Yes, it's stuck but it's working as is so no fix necessary until it dies.

In our friend's case, he should try and adjust on the right mark first (that's what I meant first).

The stock gap is usually around 1mm and could be reduced to 0.7mm (or .028" if I am right). Source: Dale.

McMucker said:

oh yeah... and this time when putting it back together I squirted a tiny bit of fuel into the plughole before closing up.
as I did I noticed a tiny vapour of smoke displace out of the plughole. rather weird. like some left over smoke escaping as gas was put in.

Click to expand...

The fact that it wanted to start is a good sign. You need to work on the quality of the kicks. Strong and confident, it should start.

Squirting fuel in the plughole will not do a lot, maybe instead do more bad than good. You should instead kick it several times without the plug (make sure it's grounded or plug the spark tester and ground it), in order to dry it a bit.

Often if you feel it about to start and then nothing, the best to do is to vent, because if the plug is wet, it's going to be harder to start.

I'm not nearly the expert on HSBG's like some of the other guys,but I tend to agree with everything written here. I also had a hard time initially when I bought my bike.

1. The technique for kicking it is very impotant, you have to do a really full stroke, otherwise nothing. This week one of my frinds normally on a KTM took my bike for a spin. After several tries from him standing next to the bike trying to get it going, I took one stab at it and it fired right away like always when I use the normal procedures.
2. Make sure you're getting fuel. If my bike has been sitting for 6 weeks or so I have to empty the fuel bowl before it will even think of starting.
3. Usage of choke is so so, partial choke seem to be the best for me, then an easy warm up.
4. No throttle at all.
5. If all other fails which I have done once before I started using the above methods-Tow rope, bike in second or third, tow it far to see if you get it going(in my case this time 300-400m)

McMucker, I'm getting a little bit confused here.
It seems to me as you advanced the ingnition further rather than retarded it. If the mark on the stator is more to the left, then it will meet the flywheel marks sooner, more advanced. If the stator mark is more to the right in the peephole, then it will meet the flywheel marks later, more retarded. Please correct me guys if I'm wrong here.


BTW, regarding the valves if you necessarily feel that they may be the culprit. If you do not dare to or are not ready to untighten the valve adjuster screw lock nuts just yet, you could still open the lids and check if there is ever so little play in the rockers. Wouldn't necessarily have to measure the play either right now. Just check that they don't bind where there should be play. Secondly, now that the lids are off, you could perhaps check the centrifugal decompressor at the same time, that the valves does that minimal lift a bit before TDC. I can't remember if it is the exhaust or if it is the intake valves that do the centrifugal decomp lift. It will be obvious when the do. If it is worn it will not lift enough to decompress. Others have written about this in the forum. But I have never had the problem myself so I can't say wether this would affect kickstarting or not.

Good, that's what we like to hear.

One thing I found out to know if you are at TDC, is to feel the decomp lever. If it is totally slack, then you're at TDC and all you got to do now is kick it hard from top to bottom.

Another thing I found out is that the bike will start easily if you start it every 2 or 3 days.