Alright, thanks a lot
what could be the reason for the bolt to just pop out? To much pressure in the crank case? :s
pj
oil coming out of breather hose.
- Thread starter peejay2104
- Start date
Alright, thanks a lot
what could be the reason for the bolt to just pop out? To much pressure in the crank case? :s
pj
Joined Feb 2003
3K Posts | 384+
Escondido, Ca. USA
Alright, thanks a lot
what could be the reason for the bolt to just pop out? To much pressure in the crank case? :s
pj
It probably just came loose. Whoever worked on it last may have omitted using Loctitie on the bolt.
Alright, currently about to check the valves. First time doing so, do you recommend using the 1/6th method or Use feeler gauges?
Pj
Joined Feb 2003
3K Posts | 384+
Escondido, Ca. USA
Check with feeler afterwards at least. Especially since its your first times!
I noticed i didnt allways get EM right. So make sure is allways good
I noticed i didnt allways get EM right. So make sure is allways good
Think i got the tdc
Put the bike in 6th, used a t-bar to rotate the engine. First inlet Goes open, then close, outlet goes open and then close. After that the piston should Be at tdc right?
Now, when checking the valve clearance with the feeler there is No clearance what so Ever. What do i do now? Loosen the bolt, then the screw, and a feeler. I'm guessing the 1/6th rule won't work now right ?
Pj
Put the bike in 6th, used a t-bar to rotate the engine. First inlet Goes open, then close, outlet goes open and then close. After that the piston should Be at tdc right?
Now, when checking the valve clearance with the feeler there is No clearance what so Ever. What do i do now? Loosen the bolt, then the screw, and a feeler. I'm guessing the 1/6th rule won't work now right ?
Pj
Last edited:
Joined Jun 2007
4K Posts | 1K+
south east WA Australia
Can you use the crank locking bolt?
Sorry I don't have a pic. It's out the front of the cases
Go to the service manual section and download the workshop manual
Sorry I don't have a pic. It's out the front of the cases
Go to the service manual section and download the workshop manual
Joined Feb 2003
3K Posts | 384+
Escondido, Ca. USA
I think that you may be at overlap TDC. You should adjust the valves at TDC on the compression stroke. You can place a large zip tie or screwdriver in the spark plug hole to watch for TDC once you have determined that you are on the compression stroke. You can feel the compression coming out of the spark plug hole.
Loosen the jam nut, loosen the adjuster screw a turn or so then tighten the screw until you feel it make snug contact, back it off 1/6th and tighten the nut while holding the screw. It may take a few tries before you feel confident that it has been done correctly.
I used a straw in the hole of the spark plug, and when it was at all the way up and not going down. That's tdc at compression stroke right? Just tried to do the 1/6th method, and i can't get the feeler to fit in there. Loosened the screw, the tightened it without force after that backed up 1/6th of a turn. Must Be doing something wrong here :/
Gonna give it another shot
Pj
Gonna give it another shot
Pj
Joined Feb 2003
3K Posts | 384+
Escondido, Ca. USA
I often refer back to this post when adjusting my valves:
Get an offset feeler gauge made for adjusting valves. They come with two feelers, one on each end, you need the one with a .004" & .005".
Then try this procedure:
Read this all the way through before using this as a guide.
with the vlave covers off, the ignition cover off,the spark plug out, push the motor through several times watching the intake and exhaust valves open and close.
You will notice that when the intake valves open, the piston is going DOWN on the intake stroke. Then, as you keep pushing on the kick starter the motor will kind of fee wheel, the intake valves will snap shut, and you will hear a puff of air come out of the spark plug hole, this is the compression stroke. As you keep pushing the kick starter through, the piston is now going down on the power stroke, when the piston reaches the bottom and starts to come back up you will see the exhaust valves open and it will be coming back up on the exhaust stroke.
As the piston comes to the top again, you will see the exhaust valves close and the intakes will begin to open, this is top dead center where you DO NOT WANT TO ADJUST THE VALVES. This is known as overlap Top Dead Center.
As I said before, as you continue to push the kickstater through, the intakes will fully open, and as the piston approaches the bottom of the stroke, the intakes will begin to close, as I stated before the engine will free wheel a bit here. Now, put a LONG plastic ty wrap into the spark plug hole, and, using a 17mm end wrench, not a socket with a ratchet, on the nut that holds the flywheel on, continue to spin the engine in the direction it was going when you were pushing on the kickstarter. Watch the ty wrap as you turn the motor, you will see the piston pushing the ty wrap up out of the hole. Do this very slowly, and you will come to a point where the ty wrap no longer is moving up even though you are still turning the crankshaft, this the TDC or top dead center of the compression stroke, and THIS IS WHERE YOU WANT TO ADJUST THE VALVES.
If fact, if you use the kick starter in little short jerks you can get it on TDC of the compression stroke without taking the ignition cover off, and just use the method above and the long ty wrap.
NOTE: If you try and turn the motor backwards it will be very difficult because you will be engaging the starter sprag of the electric start, and you will be turning the electric start motor too. Just keep going in the direction that the kickstarter spins the motor, and come around again.
If you go past TDC, no problem, just keep turning the motor with your wrench and watch the ty wrap go down on the power stroke, up again on the exhaust stroke, down again on the intake stroke, and as you come up again you'll be on the power stroke. ( Keep a firm grip on the wrench at all times as I mentioned before the motor will want to free wheel a bit after the intake stroke and if you're not paying attention you could get your fingers pinched. It's not going to rip the wrench out of your hands, but, if you're not ready for it, it can surprise you. Voice of experience speaking here.) keep going till you get back close to TDC on the compression stroke, now just take your time and slowly turn the crank with your wrench and wait for the ty wrap to stop moving up. Wa-Lah! you're back at TDC on the compression stroke where you want to adjust the valves.
Look carefully at your flywheel and motor casings, on my 04, there is a red line that was obviously put there by hand at TDC at the factory, a mark on the cases, and another on the flywheel. If it's there, and you followed the above procedure, it will just give you some conformation that you have arrived at the correct spot. If the marks are there but are not lined up, and you would have to move the flywheel a bit to get them lined up, try doing so and keep an eye on the tywrap if you don't see it move any, don't worry, you're there. You could only see movement of the tywrap at this point if you had a dial indicator on it, trust me, you're close enough. If you really want to be sure, do as Dale Lineaweaver suggests, and get the locking bolt as described in the 2005 repair manual and insert it on the compression TDC as directed in the book. But, I don't think the bolt is necessary.
Now that you're there, check the amount of clearance first, you may not need to adjust the valves. When checking the clearance, be sure you push the feeler gauge back and forth parallel with the rocker arm shafts, or parallel with the crank shaft. Be careful with the feeler gauge, do not force it! It will break off and fall down into the rocker box and you will have to retrieve it with a small pencil (uh oh) shaped magnet. This has happened to me in the past, if it happens to you do not panic. And what ever you do, do not start the bike, or poor oil through the valve cover in an attempt to flush it out. You will not get away with this and You will be sad.
Loosen the lock nut of the valve to be adjusted and back it off a turn or so, turn the adjuster ( the screw with a slot in it for a screw driver) counter clockwise to increase the gap, and clock wise to decrease the gap. I usually just open up the gap so I can get my feeler gauge in there easier, and then gently turn the adjust down onto it. There should be noticable drag on the feeler gauge, but, not so tight you can barely move it. With the feeler gauge still in place snug up on the lock nut, and check the feel of the feeler gauge. If it has not changed, tighten the nut to the torque specified in the book, and check it again, if it's changed do it over and set a bit looser intially, if it doesn't change you're done with that one. You do not want to overtighten these nuts, as they will deform the adjuster nut threads, and it will be a BITCH from then on when ever you want to adjust the valves. I'm not going to go into that now, just don't over tighten them. Get yourself a small torque wrench and use it, you'll be happier in the long run. (Again this is the voice of experience talking here)
Always allow plenty of time to do this procedure, turn off the phone,radio,tv, etc... don't do it in the company of others, do it all alone in a quiet place without any distractions. Don't rush!!
I hope this helps.
__________________
Dale "E" O!
"It is as useless to argue with those who have renounced the use and authority of reason as it is to administer medication to the dead."
Two 2009 FE570's
2004 FE550E (sold)
2001 FE501E (sold)
1994 FE501 (sold)
DaleEO is offline Report Post
Get an offset feeler gauge made for adjusting valves. They come with two feelers, one on each end, you need the one with a .004" & .005".
Then try this procedure:
Read this all the way through before using this as a guide.
with the vlave covers off, the ignition cover off,the spark plug out, push the motor through several times watching the intake and exhaust valves open and close.
You will notice that when the intake valves open, the piston is going DOWN on the intake stroke. Then, as you keep pushing on the kick starter the motor will kind of fee wheel, the intake valves will snap shut, and you will hear a puff of air come out of the spark plug hole, this is the compression stroke. As you keep pushing the kick starter through, the piston is now going down on the power stroke, when the piston reaches the bottom and starts to come back up you will see the exhaust valves open and it will be coming back up on the exhaust stroke.
As the piston comes to the top again, you will see the exhaust valves close and the intakes will begin to open, this is top dead center where you DO NOT WANT TO ADJUST THE VALVES. This is known as overlap Top Dead Center.
As I said before, as you continue to push the kickstater through, the intakes will fully open, and as the piston approaches the bottom of the stroke, the intakes will begin to close, as I stated before the engine will free wheel a bit here. Now, put a LONG plastic ty wrap into the spark plug hole, and, using a 17mm end wrench, not a socket with a ratchet, on the nut that holds the flywheel on, continue to spin the engine in the direction it was going when you were pushing on the kickstarter. Watch the ty wrap as you turn the motor, you will see the piston pushing the ty wrap up out of the hole. Do this very slowly, and you will come to a point where the ty wrap no longer is moving up even though you are still turning the crankshaft, this the TDC or top dead center of the compression stroke, and THIS IS WHERE YOU WANT TO ADJUST THE VALVES.
If fact, if you use the kick starter in little short jerks you can get it on TDC of the compression stroke without taking the ignition cover off, and just use the method above and the long ty wrap.
NOTE: If you try and turn the motor backwards it will be very difficult because you will be engaging the starter sprag of the electric start, and you will be turning the electric start motor too. Just keep going in the direction that the kickstarter spins the motor, and come around again.
If you go past TDC, no problem, just keep turning the motor with your wrench and watch the ty wrap go down on the power stroke, up again on the exhaust stroke, down again on the intake stroke, and as you come up again you'll be on the power stroke. ( Keep a firm grip on the wrench at all times as I mentioned before the motor will want to free wheel a bit after the intake stroke and if you're not paying attention you could get your fingers pinched. It's not going to rip the wrench out of your hands, but, if you're not ready for it, it can surprise you. Voice of experience speaking here.) keep going till you get back close to TDC on the compression stroke, now just take your time and slowly turn the crank with your wrench and wait for the ty wrap to stop moving up. Wa-Lah! you're back at TDC on the compression stroke where you want to adjust the valves.
Look carefully at your flywheel and motor casings, on my 04, there is a red line that was obviously put there by hand at TDC at the factory, a mark on the cases, and another on the flywheel. If it's there, and you followed the above procedure, it will just give you some conformation that you have arrived at the correct spot. If the marks are there but are not lined up, and you would have to move the flywheel a bit to get them lined up, try doing so and keep an eye on the tywrap if you don't see it move any, don't worry, you're there. You could only see movement of the tywrap at this point if you had a dial indicator on it, trust me, you're close enough. If you really want to be sure, do as Dale Lineaweaver suggests, and get the locking bolt as described in the 2005 repair manual and insert it on the compression TDC as directed in the book. But, I don't think the bolt is necessary.
Now that you're there, check the amount of clearance first, you may not need to adjust the valves. When checking the clearance, be sure you push the feeler gauge back and forth parallel with the rocker arm shafts, or parallel with the crank shaft. Be careful with the feeler gauge, do not force it! It will break off and fall down into the rocker box and you will have to retrieve it with a small pencil (uh oh) shaped magnet. This has happened to me in the past, if it happens to you do not panic. And what ever you do, do not start the bike, or poor oil through the valve cover in an attempt to flush it out. You will not get away with this and You will be sad.
Loosen the lock nut of the valve to be adjusted and back it off a turn or so, turn the adjuster ( the screw with a slot in it for a screw driver) counter clockwise to increase the gap, and clock wise to decrease the gap. I usually just open up the gap so I can get my feeler gauge in there easier, and then gently turn the adjust down onto it. There should be noticable drag on the feeler gauge, but, not so tight you can barely move it. With the feeler gauge still in place snug up on the lock nut, and check the feel of the feeler gauge. If it has not changed, tighten the nut to the torque specified in the book, and check it again, if it's changed do it over and set a bit looser intially, if it doesn't change you're done with that one. You do not want to overtighten these nuts, as they will deform the adjuster nut threads, and it will be a BITCH from then on when ever you want to adjust the valves. I'm not going to go into that now, just don't over tighten them. Get yourself a small torque wrench and use it, you'll be happier in the long run. (Again this is the voice of experience talking here)
Always allow plenty of time to do this procedure, turn off the phone,radio,tv, etc... don't do it in the company of others, do it all alone in a quiet place without any distractions. Don't rush!!
I hope this helps.
__________________
Dale "E" O!
"It is as useless to argue with those who have renounced the use and authority of reason as it is to administer medication to the dead."
Two 2009 FE570's
2004 FE550E (sold)
2001 FE501E (sold)
1994 FE501 (sold)
DaleEO is offline Report Post
Thanks man, that helps a lot i finally understand, will Be doing this tomorrow and hope i get it right this time.
I'll keep you updated.
Pj
i finally understand, will Be doing this tomorrow and hope i get it right this time. I'll keep you updated.
Pj
Joined Feb 2003
3K Posts | 384+
Escondido, Ca. USA
Thanks man, that helps a lot
I'll keep you updated.
Pj
No problem. Why are you adjusting the valves now? Did you already remove and reinstall the rocker cover? Cam chain tensioner bolt issue?
Yes, already removed the rocker cover and solved the cam chain tensioner issue. The bolt was pretty Short, so i put a longer one in and used loctite this time. I do have to adjust the valves after taking the rocker cover off right?
Pj
Alright, so finally got tdc right. Tried adjusting the valves with the 1/6th method. But after doing so, i can't get the feeler gauge under the rocker :/ kinda stuck here since i have No idea what i could Be doing wrong
Pj
Pj
Joined Feb 2003
3K Posts | 384+
Escondido, Ca. USA
What I did to get the feel of it is to loosen the adjuster screw so that it is easy to get the feeler gauge in. Then progressively tighten the screw until you get an idea when the rocker is fully seated on the valve. You probably have overtightened the adjustment screw. To make it easier you really need this type of feeler gauge made by Motion Pro:
Alright thanks
I'll Be getting one of those tomorrow and Let you know how it goes
Pj
I'll Be getting one of those tomorrow and Let you know how it goes
Pj
Joined Aug 2008
756 Posts | 156+
England, Southampton
Just a quick one,
if you stick with the 1/6 turn method, check where the slot in the adjuster is pointing before you tighten the lock nut and make sure that hasn't moved after it's tightened. Sometimes they move, this could be one reason why you can't get your feeler gauge in.
Carl.
if you stick with the 1/6 turn method, check where the slot in the adjuster is pointing before you tighten the lock nut and make sure that hasn't moved after it's tightened. Sometimes they move, this could be one reason why you can't get your feeler gauge in.
Carl.
Just been for a testride, everything seems alright for now. No weird noises, drives just like before so i think that the problem is solved. All i need to do know is to wait for the breather hose i ordered. Can the engine vent enought with just one vent above the crank? Even when the engine is a bit older and stuff?
Many thanks, without you guys i probably won't have succeeded in repairing this bike
peejay
Many thanks, without you guys i probably won't have succeeded in repairing this bike
peejay
Joined Feb 2003
3K Posts | 384+
Escondido, Ca. USA
Just been for a testride, everything seems alright for now. No weird noises, drives just like before so i think that the problem is solved. All i need to do know is to wait for the breather hose i ordered. Can the engine vent enought with just one vent above the crank? Even when the engine is a bit older and stuff?
Many thanks, without you guys i probably won't have succeeded in repairing this bike
peejay
I think one vent will be fine. Up until 04 all Bergs only had one vent. Perhaps venting wasn't the main reason for adding a second vent. Based on where its placement is it seems to me that it could have been a way to increase oiling to the cam chain. Oil would be flung up the breather hose and would then drip back down onto the chain.
These bikes have a reed valve that regulates the amount of oil in the crankshaft area. With too much crankcase pressure I think it may push out too much oil from the crank back to the clutch area. So perhaps the engineers wanted to insure enough crank oiling or raise the crankshaft cavity oil level by lowering the crankcase pressure.
In any case I would not want to be the one to try and second guess Thomas Gustavsson.
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