So i can just close up the vent at the timing chain and make a Hose go from the valve vent straight to the chassis? If that's it then that's very simple
Do i still need the filter that was originally in the breather Hose? Pj
oil coming out of breather hose.
- Thread starter peejay2104
- Start date
So i can just close up the vent at the timing chain and make a Hose go from the valve vent straight to the chassis? If that's it then that's very simple
Do i still need the filter that was originally in the breather Hose? Pj
Joined Feb 2003
3K Posts | 384+
Escondido, Ca. USA
So i can just close up the vent at the timing chain and make a Hose go from the valve vent straight to the chassis? If that's it then that's very simple
Pj
1) Yes
2) You can omit the filter if you want to but depending on where you run the hose to may / will make a difference.
3) Usually the main reason a breather mod is done is to eliminate oil mist accumulating in the frame and carb and in case the bike flips over the engine will not fill with oil. The breather hose is therefore left unconnected to the frame and is usually topped off with a K&N breather filter and run either up to the gas tank area or downward to the bottom of the frame somewhere. Use your imagination. You will need to plug the frame breather hose inlet if you do it that way.
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This is currently how i'm trying to do it. Filter has been stuffed in the Hose, might have to make it a bit smaller so it let's the air Flow a bit better since it's very restrictive now. Or can i just leave it out since i mounted the Hose back to the frame?
You think this is any good?
Can't thanks you guys enough for the help so for
Pj
You think this is any good?
Can't thanks you guys enough for the help so for
Pj
Attachments
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So leaving the filter out is fine now right? Or doesn't it matter because it's pretty hard to Blow past now :/
Pj
Joined Feb 2003
3K Posts | 384+
Escondido, Ca. USA
The earlier Berg's did not have the filter so you are going back in time somewhat. You should be O.K.. I would take the air filter off periodically to check and see if you are getting a large volume of oil in the frame. A small amount is normal. Some have taken very course steel wool and stuffed it into the hose near the end. I don't think that I would recommend that especially since the hose is going upward toward the frame.
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Alright, i Made the filter a bit smaller and put it in again. Time for the testride now. I'll Let you guys know how it went
Pj
Pj
Just got back from the testride, breather hose leak is gone. But now the screw on the left of the cylinderhead just popped out...leaking oil out of the head...
I'm guessing that the previous owner tightened the screw to hard, and just ruined the thread. It shouldn't pop out like that right?
pj
I'm guessing that the previous owner tightened the screw to hard, and just ruined the thread. It shouldn't pop out like that right?
pj
Joined Feb 2003
3K Posts | 384+
Escondido, Ca. USA
That bolt holds the cam chain tensioner. The bolt goes through the tensioner(where it pivots) and into a special nut / bushing.
I am pretty sure you can access the tensioner by taking the rocker cover off but you may have to take the head off.
I would not ride it until you have the issue resolved.
The bolt in question requires Loctite 243
I am pretty sure you can access the tensioner by taking the rocker cover off but you may have to take the head off.
I would not ride it until you have the issue resolved.
The bolt in question requires Loctite 243
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Do i have to take of the head in order to screw this screw back in? I can just bolt it straight in, or is there something missing now? :/
pj
Joined Feb 2003
3K Posts | 384+
Escondido, Ca. USA
The bolt screws into a nut (see the diagram) and needs to be held with a wrench while you tighten it. Pretty sure you could just take the rocker cover off to access the nut. When I took the head off mine awhile back it seemed to me that if you were to remove the tensioner you would need to take the head off but just to tighten the bolt and nut the head removal may not be necessary.
Alright, bit confused since there is also thread for the screw in the cylinderhead, i'll try to get you a closer pic
pj
Joined Feb 2003
3K Posts | 384+
Escondido, Ca. USA
Alright, bit confused since there is also thread for the screw in the cylinderhead, i'll try to get you a closer pic
pj
I don't think there is but I could be mistaken.
Nevermind i see, it's just the bolts thread i'm seeing. How hard is it to take of the rocker cover? Is it just that part with husaberg on it or do you mean the whole valve cover?
Also, don't you think that the bolt is screwed now since it popped out? :/
pj
Also, don't you think that the bolt is screwed now since it popped out? :/
pj
How hard is the valve adjustment? Have never done it before since i always worked on two strokes (god i miss it right now
)Also, what kind of gasket do i use to seal it again? Can i just use like the blue putty 'liquid' kind of gasket?
I can't find any info on the valves either in the owners manual, any idea where i can find what i need?
pj
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Joined Feb 2003
3K Posts | 384+
Escondido, Ca. USA
How hard is the valve adjustment? Have never done it before since i always worked on two strokes (god i miss it right now
Also, what kind of gasket do i use to seal it again? Can i just use like the blue putty 'liquid' kind of gasket?
I can't find any info on the valves either in the owners manual, any idea where i can find what i need?
pj
Most types of silicone sealants that are resistant to oil can be used. Do some searches on this site. Everyone seems to have their favorite. Much has been written on valve adjustment. Again search this site. I have a post that I have printed out to fall back on. I will see if I can find it and send it to you later (I am at work now).
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