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Oil- CASTROL GPS 10W40 Semi synth

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grasstrackpete

Joined Sep 2008
299 Posts | 1+
Up North Uk
anyone used? i had been using car oil after someone we all know said 'any good quality 10w40' semi synth is good enough pete'. no names mentioned dave (not 'taffy dave' by the way)

he didnt specify it had to be bike oil, so, being a fan of castrol, i bought this stuff, only thing, its not as viscous (thick) as the other stuff i was using, is this normal, or is this the difference that needs to be for clutch plates, no experience with 4T bike oils

ta much

pete
 
Hi Pete
The viscosity isn't the difference, any oil rated 10w 40 should be the same whether it's for a plane, train or automobile.
The car oils contain moly that's supposed to make the wet clutches slip.
I say supposed to because I've got a mate that uses Magnatec in his Husky and has done for years.
His clutch don't slip and he calls me all sorts of names cos I used to waste money on the bike oils.
Recently I've been using a 15w 40 diesel engine oil (Delo 400) as a compromise cos it doesn't have the moly and it's cost effective.
Lots of guys on this site use it so I figure "how bad can it be?"
I'm not saying that the GPS will/won't make your clutch slip but it prolly wouldn't hurt to use either and if it did then stop.
Do a search and you'll find all sorts of arguments and opinions on oils.

Coops
 
i once sold a guy some castrol semi-syn and although the specs on the can look ok it was missing a vital aditive i'm told, and that is why his triumph ate its clutch and left him stranded at the side of the road. so is it really worth the risk?
j
 
I use 5W50 racing motorbike Valvoline.I dont know is that contain Molly.(It's not written on product spec.).Nothing happening what could give me suspects, that the oil is wrong.It takes lots of time on web surfing, before I found online store who keeps it and they sent me 5lts bottle.Any one has heard any bad about it?
 
Pete, i dont know enough about oils to give you an informed answer about using car oil in a bike.
But i will say that sometimes these things just arnet worth the risk. Id stick to whats recomended.

Having said that, i think looking for a cheaper alternative to being ripped off is always good.
I use Putoline 100% synthetic and it costs £10 a Liter.
If you do the sums it gets expensive quick.
Its recomended to change the oil every 5 hours, For me thats 2 tanks of fuel, then ive got to think about oil again

Dello 400 is what everyone on here suggests, but you cant get it in the uk
 
honda recommend a "good 10-40 motor oil" in the manual, i used magnatec in my berg and no problems, i think the main thing is changing it reguly and therefore the cheaper the better. the oil is only in there so you can get the metal powder out easly!l
 
Thing is, i chane oil even if i go to a race, i only do 15 mins, if i even start during week and take round block, i change it, hence why i used cheap lol
 
there is a web site that lists the scaring in mm.and listed 1-6 or so and yes porshe' stocks there cars with mobil 1,
i think theyve been building engines longer than any smart elick on this web post, so i would read the info,dont just take one fools advise, been running nothing but car oils and never any problems,and never any clutch slippage promblems.but after running royal purple vs,mobil, royalpurple seemed to have a 2hp.diff, but the website reccomends mobil1 to the other 5,either way new oil is better than exc,old oil. all hi performance jets planes only use senthetic, is the way to go. good luck. :roll: posting.php?mode=reply&f=5&t=9710#
 
I beleve that you need to change your oil every 10 hours.....or less if your next ride will take you past that mark. I buy 20l of Caltex Delo 400 and it cost me $103aud delivered to my door. Runs great in the bike and is cheap.

Also when i change it it is clean and i havent seen a serious shaving yet, my plug and screens are clean. I believe that you should change you oil super regularly and therefore expensive oil is a waste. why waste you coin then $$$ are hard enough to earn as is????

My 2 cents

BB
 
Back in the '90s when I bought my first Husaberg ('96 FE501) the Husaberg manual recommended 5-50W full synthetic and the only one on the market that I could find was Castrol Syntec, an automotive oil which is what I ran in it as did a friend of mine with a '92 FE350. Neither of us had any clutch problems and both bikes never had anything else used in them (except that I used semi-synthetic oil for the break-in). I have heard the clutch slippage story before but have never experienced it. In fact, I used to run 20W automotive oil in the gear boxes of my 2-stroke 500XC Huskys back in the '80s and never had a problem with my clutches. I do use 10-50W Castrol m/c oil in my '05 FE550 but did use Castrol Syntec 5-50W in my '02 FE650 and couldn't tell any difference in the clutch. I did notice a lot of clutch drag on my '96 FE501 when the motor was cool while using 20-50W semi-synthetic along with being rather hard to kick start but with the 5-50W oil that problem went away.
 
In 2 stroke (KTM & CRF too) gearboxes you can run LSD gear oil. LSD diffs run clutch packs, so same as bike gearboxes. Lots of choices.

Re Mobil 1 vs Delo 400, my 98 501 is living proof of the benefits of Delo 400 over Mobil 1. Now still at about 33,000 kms, not much use in recent years, but since I swapped oils it has over twice the hours on the valve gear than Mobil 1 allowed. Perhaps something to do with the idea that the synthetics are too good for roller bearing engines, and are best used in plain bearing motors.

I got 3 20l drums of Delo 400 @ $80 each on special last month at the Henty Field Days. Also got a 20l drum of Chain & Bar oil for $50.

Steve
 
It is the API ratings you want to look at. What you DO NOT want in any bike with a wet clutch is:
images
 
YEP the API rating is the big issue for bikes/wet clutches. It wasnt as much of a deal upto about 5yrs ago as most 'car' mineral oils were still low on the API rate (S= spark ignition ie petrol, C= compression ignition ie diesel) the second letter is the key, most bike manufacturers state not to use higher than SG (G being the important letter, SA is the really cheep stuff you get at the supermarket for £5 5litres. The manufacturers practicaly give the stuff away) Some of the newer (last 15yrs) bikes say up to SJ when fully synthetic SG for mineral.

I bought 10w 40 Castrol Power 1 4T for the FE501 i got yesterday, I didnt realise i was meant to get 10w 50, but thats only available in 1L and works out twice the price of the 10w 40, I couldnt find anyone doing the 5w 50 oils the book specs even on the net.

I was reading that a lot of the more modern oils can be very very bad for older machines as they have lower % of some of the addatives that used to be in the oils and as a result lead to premature wear of bearings and cams.

Pete
 
I've been using Shell Helix 15/50 full synth car oil for the last 60+hrs with absolutely no clutch or other issues. Apparently it's the recommended fill for Ferraris and is available on the net at a very reasonable price. I've been paying around £6 litre.
 
Im glad someone else brought this up again...i really want to get this figured out but didnt want to ask the question and am not spending 15$ every hour or two on oil . i read on here in a hundred places delo 400 is the way to go, but the old delo is the good stuff the new low ash/emission stuff is a different rating. i bought the last five gallons of the old stuff in my area which has a 15w-40 CI-4 CH-4/SL CI-4plus rating on the API rating symbol, the new stuff i think was SJ, either way it was a different rating and i haven't used it. when i first got it i used some castrol car 5-50 synthetic, some mobile 1 20w-50 bike oil (seemed like the clutch drug more then normal like everyone else said it would) also used any other 5w-50, 10w40, 15w40 car oil i could till i found some old delo in a parts house but i only have one quart left!
I am open to suggestions but of course; want it to be very cheap, within the specified API rating for wet clutch and viscosity, must be readily available anywhere, and when you get all that figured out jst lemme know ill get it warmed up and you can change it for me too :bounce3:... and no short cuts, im due for a filter this time!... :bounce3:
 
some people in the US use a 30W monograde deisel specific engine oil and add some zinc, im not sure but i think you can get it as an additive from lucas.

shell rotella T is the other one that is popular.

I honestly can't recall hearing or reading of a single example of anyone who has used "modern" oil and had their clutch burn out prematurely when properly compared to other oils so im calling BS or "unconfirmed" on that myth.

the worst oil for my clutch was motul 300V it meets the right specs for wet clutches but its so slippery the clutch slips more than it should. clutch and oil get toasted real quick.
 
Ok, heres the question i should have asked....on the API rating label, is the main thing to be concerned with the
"energy conserving" to not use, or the "J" to not use. the old delo 400 is not energy conserving and is less then a "J" rating so there is no question its good to use, the new delo 400 and new rotella both are "CJ" im not sure about energy conserving part, just want to at least have this part sorted when i start my search for the perfect, cheap and easy to find oil.....with one quart of old delo left that search is going to start within the next few hours of ride time or monday whichever comes first..... :rock:
 
Rotella T 15w-40 actually says certified for JASO MA on the back??? That was an easier search then i thought, Proper API rating, cheap, easy to find...no wonder why rotella t is the new delo 400! I cant beleive i didnt see this before, im definatly hopping on that bandwagon! now i just need that volunteer to change it for me and it'll be a great day :bounce3: :cheers: :bounce3:
 
as above IMHO the concerns about API ratings and energy conserving lables are OTT

the issue is with the new emission standards and heavy metals

the problem with the delo400 LE is that it has had zinc and other goodies taken out for environmental reasons.
 

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