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New in the stable : FS570

The bike starts fine if I junpnit from another battery. Just innitial turn over is heavy.

Ive got a new plug id like to try to see if it makes a difference. Bike only has 40 hours on though?
 
manual recommends new spark plug every 30 hours (I think not sure).
I have 185 hours and only changed plug 2x....
 
Changed the plug and changed the battery. Starts much easier now. Hot starts are still a problem.

I cant run start it with the slipper clutch, but I've figured out bumping the starter motor while run starting it, will fire up the motor.

You guys think it could be a leaky injector?

PS ill post a pic of my old plug in a bit.
 
The idle adjuster is pushed in and the idle set to 1600 RPM or so, right? Just to make sure.
 
I don't yet know enough about fuel injection systems to really tell, but researching it just now found this thread which can confirm/explain the leaky injector theory: http://m.rennlist.com/rennforums/showth ... p?t=490262

I don't know if it helps with a leaky injector, but good advice was given here to hold the injector open with a 9V battery and blow compressed air backwards through it to clean a clogged injector. Maybe worth a try to unstick a leaky one.

Some people like to buy and keep a new and known-good injector on hand for debugging and to be able to send injectors off for ultrasonic cleaning without downtime.
 
Surely a leaky injector would cause a bog or hesitation under riding, which there is none I can assure you.


What is the correct starting procedure, seeing as there is no ignition to switch on?


What I usually do is just tap the starter button slightly to have the fuel prime and once that is done, I hit the starter with a bit more enthusiasm. Sometimes, im surprised by a deep growl from the akro and sometimes, well i have to fetch the other battery. Sometimes a bit of quickstart is also needed.
 
stev0 said:
Anthon Berg said:
The idle adjuster is pushed in and the idle set to 1600 RPM or so, right? Just to make sure.
Click to expand...


Wait, what... come again?
Click to expand...

First a correction: 1700-1900RPM, sorry, not 1600RPM! The '09 FE manual I have says 1700-1800, the '12 manual says 1800-1900.

From the manual - you can pick up a free PDF copy over at the official Husaberg.com site:

Idle speed adjusting screw (1) is attached to the throttle valve body on the left side. The idle speed adjusting screw has two functions.
Turning it controls the idle speed.
Pulling it out all the way raises the idle speed during a cold start. [= like a choke button - AB]
Possible states
• RPM increase activated – Idle speed adjusting screw is pulled out all the way.
• RPM increase deactivated – Idle speed adjusting screw is pushed in all the way.

Adjusting the idle speed
– Run the engine warm and push the idle speed adjusting screw all the way in.
– Set the desired idle speed by turning the idle speed adjusting screw.
Guideline: Idle speed: [1700-1800 in '09 manual or 1800-1900 in '12 manual - AB]
Turn counterclockwise to increase the idle speed. Turn clockwise to decrease the idle speed.
Click to expand...

I don't understand FI fully, but conceivably a leaky injector could be leaky enough to dribble a drop of fuel and mess up the starting while being "not leaky" enough to work OK in operation - or maybe it IS having an impact, the bike is sliiightly underpowered at the moment and you don't even know it because they are so overkill to begin with? :) .. ?maybe ?

How old is the bike? Mine is a 2010 model that I bought very recently with 40 hours on the clock - and it has definitely sat enough for it to have an effect on the bike. If age vs. hours indicate that it has sat unridden for a while, then that's at IMO least a hint that there could possibly be crust or gunk in the injection.
 

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I hear what you are saying. This is a MY11, bought with about 37 hours on. Ive put about 4 on her.

I also need to take on consideration that my bike has an airbox mod, akro and remap done. Ill go and check out the idle adjuster.

Next thing I would do is inspect the fuel filter.
 
Hi Steveo, I have a couple of other things that you can look at in regards to slow cranking. I would look at the Main earthing on the frame, if it isn't clean then you will get voltage drop causing a slow turning starter. Also the 09 bikes had a auto decompressor issue, looking at your bike I guess it's a '10 ? Might be worth in checking how much valve lift the ADC gives.

If the injector is dirty, at rest the 50 psi of fuel pressure leaks east the injector pintle very slowly you end up with a drop of fuel forming on the injector nozzle, which then falls into the chamber followed by another and another untill enough pressure has bled down and the dripping stops. All of a sudden you have a cylinder full of wet fuel and a hard to start bike.


Edit: sorry stevo did not see you last post with the bike model year.
 
Got another new battery today with more cold cranking amps.

Okay, starts fine and runs fine.

Hot starts are slow.

Could all this be starter related?
 
I've also had this issue with my 2010 fs570 from new, replaced battery under warranty , no change. Just learnt to live with it. Sometimes I rock the bike forward in gear to move the piston position, checked all earths, no faults, checked starter no faults........ I gave up.....
 
Just had a bit of a brain fart.

Could this hard start be valve related?

[youtube:1rtrtv90]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=edM1V_GFK0s[/youtube:1rtrtv90]
 
The KTM 4 strokes had problems with the auto decompression release being installed wrong a few husabergs had problems as well not sure about the installation but did not lift the valve enough causing hard starts. My 2009 570 has the original battery and kicks it over no problem
 
FWIW my starter can "hang" like that, and then I have to wait ~5 seconds and then it spins right up.

I'm suspicious of my throttle position sensor, as mine sometimes has an easier time starting if I pull the throttle just a liiiiiiiittle bit, crank, and then drop the throttle closed.

But these comments do not address your question directly. From the theory I know, then valves can have an effect on starting, and in my opinion it is probably good to check the valves on a new bike, if only to know where you're at and to get to know the bike.
 
Dropped it off at Ktm Cape Town today. They are probably the most equipped to sort it out.



Btw, my bike has a hunger for globes. Front globe dies within a minute or two of riding.


Any hid kits available?

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 
I had the same problem tried the battery fix no go 09 model should have dean a warranty cam replacement the auoto decompression doesent lift the exaust valves enough to blead out compression espescialy when hot I used to bump start 2nd gear and hit the electric starter at the same time so my fix was reset valves from memory at .06 less gap = more lift I would check vale settings first hope it fixes it negy
 
Bike is at ktm at the moment. They said valves are fine and the auto decomp is in the right way. The starter is also fine.

They seem to think its the battery, but the battery is new. I told them to check the wiring as some of us suspect its a bad earth.
 
loose exhaust valve or starter motor governor too loose? the ex valve closest the cam gear needs to be on the tight edge of spec to open that decomp when hot.
 

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