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manual recommends new spark plug every 30 hours (I think not sure).
I have 185 hours and only changed plug 2x....
I have 185 hours and only changed plug 2x....
Changed the plug and changed the battery. Starts much easier now. Hot starts are still a problem.
I cant run start it with the slipper clutch, but I've figured out bumping the starter motor while run starting it, will fire up the motor.
You guys think it could be a leaky injector?
PS ill post a pic of my old plug in a bit.
I cant run start it with the slipper clutch, but I've figured out bumping the starter motor while run starting it, will fire up the motor.
You guys think it could be a leaky injector?
PS ill post a pic of my old plug in a bit.
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The idle adjuster is pushed in and the idle set to 1600 RPM or so, right? Just to make sure.
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I don't yet know enough about fuel injection systems to really tell, but researching it just now found this thread which can confirm/explain the leaky injector theory: http://m.rennlist.com/rennforums/showth ... p?t=490262
I don't know if it helps with a leaky injector, but good advice was given here to hold the injector open with a 9V battery and blow compressed air backwards through it to clean a clogged injector. Maybe worth a try to unstick a leaky one.
Some people like to buy and keep a new and known-good injector on hand for debugging and to be able to send injectors off for ultrasonic cleaning without downtime.
I don't know if it helps with a leaky injector, but good advice was given here to hold the injector open with a 9V battery and blow compressed air backwards through it to clean a clogged injector. Maybe worth a try to unstick a leaky one.
Some people like to buy and keep a new and known-good injector on hand for debugging and to be able to send injectors off for ultrasonic cleaning without downtime.
Surely a leaky injector would cause a bog or hesitation under riding, which there is none I can assure you.
What is the correct starting procedure, seeing as there is no ignition to switch on?
What I usually do is just tap the starter button slightly to have the fuel prime and once that is done, I hit the starter with a bit more enthusiasm. Sometimes, im surprised by a deep growl from the akro and sometimes, well i have to fetch the other battery. Sometimes a bit of quickstart is also needed.
What is the correct starting procedure, seeing as there is no ignition to switch on?
What I usually do is just tap the starter button slightly to have the fuel prime and once that is done, I hit the starter with a bit more enthusiasm. Sometimes, im surprised by a deep growl from the akro and sometimes, well i have to fetch the other battery. Sometimes a bit of quickstart is also needed.
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stev0 said:
First a correction: 1700-1900RPM, sorry, not 1600RPM! The '09 FE manual I have says 1700-1800, the '12 manual says 1800-1900.
From the manual - you can pick up a free PDF copy over at the official Husaberg.com site:
I don't understand FI fully, but conceivably a leaky injector could be leaky enough to dribble a drop of fuel and mess up the starting while being "not leaky" enough to work OK in operation - or maybe it IS having an impact, the bike is sliiightly underpowered at the moment and you don't even know it because they are so overkill to begin with?
.. ?maybe ?How old is the bike? Mine is a 2010 model that I bought very recently with 40 hours on the clock - and it has definitely sat enough for it to have an effect on the bike. If age vs. hours indicate that it has sat unridden for a while, then that's at IMO least a hint that there could possibly be crust or gunk in the injection.
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I hear what you are saying. This is a MY11, bought with about 37 hours on. Ive put about 4 on her.
I also need to take on consideration that my bike has an airbox mod, akro and remap done. Ill go and check out the idle adjuster.
Next thing I would do is inspect the fuel filter.
I also need to take on consideration that my bike has an airbox mod, akro and remap done. Ill go and check out the idle adjuster.
Next thing I would do is inspect the fuel filter.
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Hi Steveo, I have a couple of other things that you can look at in regards to slow cranking. I would look at the Main earthing on the frame, if it isn't clean then you will get voltage drop causing a slow turning starter. Also the 09 bikes had a auto decompressor issue, looking at your bike I guess it's a '10 ? Might be worth in checking how much valve lift the ADC gives.
If the injector is dirty, at rest the 50 psi of fuel pressure leaks east the injector pintle very slowly you end up with a drop of fuel forming on the injector nozzle, which then falls into the chamber followed by another and another untill enough pressure has bled down and the dripping stops. All of a sudden you have a cylinder full of wet fuel and a hard to start bike.
Edit: sorry stevo did not see you last post with the bike model year.
If the injector is dirty, at rest the 50 psi of fuel pressure leaks east the injector pintle very slowly you end up with a drop of fuel forming on the injector nozzle, which then falls into the chamber followed by another and another untill enough pressure has bled down and the dripping stops. All of a sudden you have a cylinder full of wet fuel and a hard to start bike.
Edit: sorry stevo did not see you last post with the bike model year.
I've also had this issue with my 2010 fs570 from new, replaced battery under warranty , no change. Just learnt to live with it. Sometimes I rock the bike forward in gear to move the piston position, checked all earths, no faults, checked starter no faults........ I gave up.....
The KTM 4 strokes had problems with the auto decompression release being installed wrong a few husabergs had problems as well not sure about the installation but did not lift the valve enough causing hard starts. My 2009 570 has the original battery and kicks it over no problem
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FWIW my starter can "hang" like that, and then I have to wait ~5 seconds and then it spins right up.
I'm suspicious of my throttle position sensor, as mine sometimes has an easier time starting if I pull the throttle just a liiiiiiiittle bit, crank, and then drop the throttle closed.
But these comments do not address your question directly. From the theory I know, then valves can have an effect on starting, and in my opinion it is probably good to check the valves on a new bike, if only to know where you're at and to get to know the bike.
I'm suspicious of my throttle position sensor, as mine sometimes has an easier time starting if I pull the throttle just a liiiiiiiittle bit, crank, and then drop the throttle closed.
But these comments do not address your question directly. From the theory I know, then valves can have an effect on starting, and in my opinion it is probably good to check the valves on a new bike, if only to know where you're at and to get to know the bike.
I had the same problem tried the battery fix no go 09 model should have dean a warranty cam replacement the auoto decompression doesent lift the exaust valves enough to blead out compression espescialy when hot I used to bump start 2nd gear and hit the electric starter at the same time so my fix was reset valves from memory at .06 less gap = more lift I would check vale settings first hope it fixes it negy
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loose exhaust valve or starter motor governor too loose? the ex valve closest the cam gear needs to be on the tight edge of spec to open that decomp when hot.
