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Motorex or Motul

Joined Jan 2008
77 Posts | 4+
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The OIL question again...

I used the 10w50 Crosspower in my old fs650 and it worked great!
Now I have a tuned 570 and thinking to put a 15w50 300V in it.
I already ordered the 300v. It's cheaper and theoretically better.
I'd change the oil in every 5hours.

I read some experiances about the 300v and it was said that the cluth slips with it. This slipperyness could be good of the engine side (?).
About motorex as I can remember I always read positive feedbacks not like motul.
 
I've had 300V in for thousands of kilometers my DR-Z and no clutch slippage. And that's not a fresh clutch at all! I did notice a difference that it shifted better however! I've ran it for a few hours in my 570 and the clutch felt perfect there too :)
 
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Well thats good :)

Just hate that oil misery. Some use the most pricy 100% synth oil and some use a cheap one in long term without problem. Isn't here a race mechanic who sees what really happened with the engine parts in high use with a specific oil?
 
That knowledge is certainly out there! It's a bit frustrating how poorly it propagates and how noisy the information channels are.

The local KTM RFS trailbike guys who have hundreds of hours on their motors tend to use the medium-price stuff and change often, and are pretty much trouble-free. Motul 7100 or so. Pretty valuable to be able to see what's going on in the motor ... Not like it's that painful to just change the oil. I remember I was really scared of oil changes when I first got a bike but now I quite enjoy it :)
 
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The OIL question again...

I used the 10w50 Crosspower in my old fs650 and it worked great!
Now I have a tuned 570 and thinking to put a 15w50 300V in it.
I already ordered the 300v. It's cheaper and theoretically better.
I'd change the oil in every 5hours.

I read some experiances about the 300v and it was said that the cluth slips with it. This slipperyness could be good of the engine side (?).
About motorex as I can remember I always read positive feedbacks not like motul.

Hi

This is just my opinion and my experience, not a certified one :D

It will depend on how hard do you rev your engine, temperature and how often you change the oil.

I would use a synthetic one, but if you say it's 5 hours, probably they are both too good.

:cool:
ZAGA
 
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Hi,

well thats the point. Which 100% synth 10w50 or 15w-50 oil performs best at high rpm? Under perform firstly I mean longer engine life as much as possible at a bike like that rather max power output (because the less resistance).
 
I use motorex and change about every 15-20 hours on the 650 I owned prevously used the motul 300v engine was good clutch was almost worn at same hours my 570 now has and my 570 clutch plates are still in good condition...
 
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Hi
At high rpm or high temp they will perform the same.
This are multi grade oils, and as the name says they have multiple viscosity, so this numbers will tell you the range of the oil.
You also need to consider the lower number, because in normal conditions, the most wear you will have is when you start your engine, because you don't have active lubricant. And there the temperature were you ride will have lot of influence.
Hope I've help
Cheers
ZAGA
 
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Are these two not pretty much one in the same ? Motorex or Motul Both premium oils. I always use Motul but Motrex is the supplier for KTM as the best deal KTM could get for OEM use. I have never had a catastrophic engine failure with Motul but also service the bikes every second ride.
 
Yes probably they perform the same but as I wrote at my first post I read issues about motul. Just read "from someone" that the ester core technology provides less lubrication (no reasoning behind it but it was said by an expert).
And as I know fully synthetic like motorex is not a 100% oil like the 300v. I think it's a big difference but don't know when or what level of engine performance start to matter this attribute.
But motorex is "developed for ktm's" which also means something or not?

And there are those who just put oil for the half or third price that this two above without any problem.. Anyway I also want to find the "best" oil in my 570 'cause I'll rev it :)
 
I don't know if it is actually developed for KTM or just KTM get a smoking deal on a quality lubricant?? Maybe the tender that was bid was so good that KTM still holds?? Its all about $ and Cents in the business world now and not about quality anymore.
 
To Me it's the type of riding you do. Balls to the walls racing get the best and change it often with filters. EZ trail riding good stuff at a great price and change it by the book. I'm on the low side of the middle so I use Castrol Power RS 10w50 $8.15 a Qt. Over 7000 miles on the 570FE and 3400 miles on the 570FS with no problems let. Why Castrol OK price and have never had any problems with it on any Car , Motorcycle I've had.
 
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For the amount of oil it takes to changes and the cost of filters, why would one ever try and save a couple bucks and risk thousands in damage?

I buy bulk and get my savings that way, Same with filters. Always have it ready to use and change all the time,

Its a piece of mind knowing my oil is fresh and my bike is happy :) Makes me happy as well and not having to worry.

Same as food for the body, quality over quantity always is best for health. All machines work this way :)

I am no chemist but do know that I have heard allot about using rotella oil in bikes and do know this is a oil for diesel trucks, it has different make ups for the application so I stay far away. Bike oil is bikes, car is car and heavy truck is heavy truck. I don't think spinning a wheel of chance and betting is a good choice. Let the manufactures do it and listen to them :)
 
Fome over here; the DR650 thread - Page 7281 - ADVrider my recent post FWIW:


Oil.......
Quote:
Originally Posted by boboneleg View Post
Has the oil debate finished yet
Almost


Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
The argument against using a full synthetic in bikes like the DR, full of ball and roller bearings, is that they are too slippery. This results in the rolling elements skidding. With a less slippery/thicker semi of full mineral, they are forced to turn.

I have expereince with the roller follower bearings in my 501 Berg such thet their service life has to date been extended 3 times with the use of Delo 400 vs the previous Mobil 1 R4T.

Just sayin, and YMMV

Synthetic in plain bearing engines depending, but not ball/roller ones for me.
Most oil is good enough when changed often enough. My 501 Berg story, again, is that the service regime for the roller follower, which the DR doesn't have, is to change them out at 150 hrs. The roller follower is a needle bearing than sits between the cam and rocker, tracking the cam. The Berg has a particularly agressive up ramp on the cam, its even slightly concave to reduce overlap, and whacks the valves open hard.

Ignoring the 'its not really a full synthetic' discussion, I used Mobil 1 R4T from new, assuming full synthetic would be a good thing, and it came, and still comes well regarded. At 170 hrs, deciding that because I wasn't racing the bike full time etc, that I could let the change go out a bit, it started showing signs of loose tappets. I ordered the barings, pulled the rocker cover and found the cam lobes scuffed too, so ordered a new cam.

At the same time, maybe 15 years ago, over on UHE Husaberg Forum - Husaberg Motorcycle Forum unsurprisingly, there was an oil discussion. Contributing to that was Dale Lineaweaver Lineaweaver Racing whose CV included race winning Husabergs and a stint working at Chevron.

Having been invloved in its development, he recommended Delo 400, and had previously sold it rebottled branded as Husaberg.

I switched to Delo 400 then, and the old 501 now has over 600 hrs, the rollers fitted at 170 hrs are still the same ones. Only change was oil. No doubt there are possible other variables, like maybe I fitted the bearings better than the factory, the new bearings were a better spec, or.... But operating and maintenance regime is otherwise the same.

Its as close to a scientific test of oil I've done.

The synthetic being too slippery was one of the arguments at the time. True or not, dunno.

Lots of oil out there, lots of positive experiences suggesting that most are good enough. What's best?

If you're not bored yet , maybe this will put you to sleep; https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/201...-test-ranking/

Now, about blinker fluid....
 
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According the RAT-test the motul 5w-30 is te best.
"...But, since this oil is in the INCREDIBLE wear protection category and is ranked number 1, for oils just as they come, right out of the bottle, with no aftermarket additives, you could say you at least get the best possible wear protection available, for that super high price. This is an extremely impressive motor oil just as it comes, right out of the bottle..."
 
I suppose the 15w-50 would have very similar reults.
I probably will avoid the motorex because its pricy. If it would have a reasonable price probably I'd go for the motorex.
 
I think I'll take the 7100 10w50 which is the motul recommendation to bergs/ktm's/husqys. Maybe later I'll try the 300v which is -as I just read- a "short period oil" (which make sense hence 300v is for racing) and also possible to give a little more power. But if the engine gives more HP with 300v it doesn't mean that the engine has less protection? Because more HP=less resistance/thinner oil!?

Bhaaa there are tons of oil threads on the net...**** topic...
 
For the amount of oil it takes to changes and the cost of filters, why would one ever try and save a couple bucks and risk thousands in damage?

I buy bulk and get my savings that way, Same with filters. Always have it ready to use and change all the time,

Its a piece of mind knowing my oil is fresh and my bike is happy :) Makes me happy as well and not having to worry.

Same as food for the body, quality over quantity always is best for health. All machines work this way :)

I am no chemist but do know that I have heard allot about using rotella oil in bikes and do know this is a oil for diesel trucks, it has different make ups for the application so I stay far away. Bike oil is bikes, car is car and heavy truck is heavy truck. I don't think spinning a wheel of chance and betting is a good choice. Let the manufactures do it and listen to them :)

Just a point ...If your read the specs for Shell Rotilla 15w40 they are the same as Motorex i guess thats just a coincidence.
Also if your install a Rekluse clutch they recommend using shell Rotilla 15w40
right in the install PDF

Thats what I'm running in My TE250 and have 0 problems or issues
 

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