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Motorex or Motul

Just a point ...If your read the specs for Shell Rotilla 15w40 they are the same as Motorex i guess thats just a coincidence.
Also if your install a Rekluse clutch they recommend using shell Rotilla 15w40
right in the install PDF

Thats what I'm running in My TE250 and have 0 problems or issues

Interesting :rolleyes:
 
Just a point ...If your read the specs for Shell Rotilla 15w40 they are the same as Motorex i guess thats just a coincidence.
Also if your install a Rekluse clutch they recommend using shell Rotilla 15w40
right in the install PDF

Thats what I'm running in My TE250 and have 0 problems or issues

The spec is the same but the make up is different, The reason the recluse likes it is due to the additives and for slipping the clutch. Are these additives good for the bike motor, Recluse is not a bike manufacture and only a aftermarket part supplier?? Is the high detergent levels good for a non diesel engine that might need the oil to stick and gum?? Questions that I have always, This rottela thing is a huge debate as it has been for years, I just believe that diesel oil is for diesels and not gas engines.

You can run a vehicle on unleaded 87, 89, 91 91+ octane and it will run and for a long time without any real adverse effects. but try running this in a old engine that requires leaded fuel and what happens. Will last for years but could have lasted longer.

Some diesel oils meet the standard but its the additives in the oil that I am scared of due to the diesel engine requires them and everything else does not.

Some engines such as diesel engines have rough surfaces on parts to allow the oil to adhere, Do motorcycle engines cranks and such have this rough casting to hold the oil?? These are questions that I always have. Just because a spec standard is on a package does not always mean it is the same, can be much different with same standard. The standards are just a minimum rating and nothing more.

I just listen to the manufacture, If it aint broken then don't fix it ha-ha

You get what you pay for.
 
From the updated documents at Rekluse
Oil: Rekluse recommends that you have fresh, clean JASO-MA rated oil for best clutch performance. Dirty or old oil can make the clutch more likely to squeal or chatter. Some heavy-duty oil stabilizers or other additives have been known to reduce noise and make shifting smoother. Be sure that any additives you might use are approved for use in wet-clutch motorcycles.

Are the additives in diesel oil recommended for use in a bike?

Rekluse has removed the use of Rotella from their documents for a reason. They do note that some additives can reduce noise etc. But also now note to make sure the additives in oils are approved for use in the wet clutch motorcycle.

Just a thought to why this was removed? Liability for damage maybe??
 
I use delo, FE530

my bike is a reasonably high stress enviroment :D

i test oils by using them as cutting lube in the lathe, set up a nasty cut with the power feed tip the oil on and watch

new motul 300v is so slippery it will stop the tool cutting and force the tool out of the cut untill the heat generated evaporates the oil

same test with 4 hour old oils and delo is a way better choice

Ive also done this with mobil1, belray thumper, and shell, BP, valvoline and penrite deisel oils, delo is the number 1 after 4hrs in a berg.

i honestly don't think it matters which oil we use as long as things don't break
 
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That is a good point, If it works for you then stick with it.

Found this from a instructor of lubricants on diesel vs gas oils.

He did note that lubrication is the same in a prior article but:

Additive Levels

Diesel engine oil has more additives per volume. The most prevalent are overbase detergent additives. This additive has several jobs, but the main ones are to neutralize acids and clean. Diesel engines create a great deal more soot and combustion byproducts. Through blow-by, these find their way into the crankcase, forcing the oil to deal with them. When you put this extra additive load in a gasoline engine, the effects can be devastating to performance. The detergent will work as it is designed and try to clean the cylinder walls. This can have an adverse effect on the seal between the rings and liner, resulting in lost compression and efficiency.
So how do you know if an oil has been designed for gasoline or diesel engines? When reading a label, look for the API (American Petroleum Institute) doughnut. In the top section of this doughnut will be a service designation. This designation will either start with an “S” (service or spark ignition) for gasoline engines or a “C” (commercial or compression ignition) for diesel engines.
 
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Another thing that is never noted in any discussion on the debates with Rotella and diesel oils is,

Never use a diesel oil when breaking in a fresh engine. rings and other components need to allow for wear, rings need to seat into the cylinder wall and any detergent lubricant will not help the process.

I have been told by tons of people to never use a full synthetic during break in, but I have done it lots and rings have seated ok, I have never used a diesel oil so maybe it doesn't wash as the diesel oil does?
 
That's kinda cool. I am curious to how they do this with additives required for the diesel? I do know Chevron is a industry leader and if anyone will do something it is them. Thanks for the info, I don't know much or pay attention to heavy truck oils anymore.
 

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