Lost rocker arm end bolt

LeFrog · Nov 18, 2006

I've lost one of the two bolts (#15 on page 24 of 01 parts manual) used to adjust the rocker arm play. It came from the fact that the thread was gone, I guess, because the bolt would turn endlessly (swear it's not from me overtorquing, this time).

How bad is the fact that I cannot adjust the play (exhaust side, by the way)? Should I at least replace the rocker arm? Or try a different bolt? Rethread?

Thanks for the help!

(The bolt has to have fallen in my garage, I can at least loctite it back in place to "plug" the hole).

JoeUSA · Nov 18, 2006

LeFrog said:
I've lost one of the two bolts (#15 on page 24 of 01 parts manual) used to adjust the rocker arm play. It came from the fact that the thread was gone, I guess, because the bolt would turn endlessly (swear it's not from me overtorquing, this time).

How bad is the fact that I cannot adjust the play (exhaust side, by the way)? Should I at least replace the rocker arm? Or try a different bolt? Rethread?

Thanks for the help!

(The bolt has to have fallen in my garage, I can at least loctite it back in place to "plug" the hole).

Lefrog,

If you look more closely at that page you will see that the plug the missing screw threads into is not part of the rocker arm and not part of the rocker shaft. If the screw was spinning in it then you have probably stripped the screw threads in the plug.

You can put any suitable item in there in place of the screw as the screw just keeps the oil from leaking out and is used by some folks as a surface to pull on with a pair of pliers.

You can still move the rocker arm back and forth using your fingers though, you don't need the screw there to do that.

Regards,

Joe

LeFrog · Nov 18, 2006

RE: Re: Lost rocker arm end bolt

Thanks, Joe.

Indeed, oil was leaking through there today.

I cannot find the bolt. What do you suggest I replace it with? Same identical or just whatever can fit in there? I will put some silicone get to make sure it's not budging too much.

whosahberg · Nov 19, 2006

mr le frog sir

yes , any bolt will do - just tighten it untill it strips and back it off half a turn :drinking:

LINEAWEAVER · Nov 19, 2006

Clean the hole with lacquer thinner and apply clear silicone sealer. Allow the silicone to cure overnight.

Dale

LeFrog · Nov 21, 2006

Well, guess what, I used one of the bolts that held the kickstart activated decomp cable to the head, ground it down to the proper length, applied some Threebond 1211 in the hole, then screwed the new bolt in place and voila, I recycled, Al **** is proud of me.

vinman1513 · Nov 21, 2006

Le Frog , your a genious , ,,,,,, while were on the subject of lock tight .. etc , . whilst disassembing my cam chain , i noticed the previous mechaniic had dabbed some glue like substance on the break link plate . i ussually use a little bit o silocone . but this stuff had to be pried off before i could remove the link , is this a standard procedure to have such a hard drying epoxy like substance on the link , or is that a little overboard , and will my silocone be fine ...

logjump · Nov 22, 2006

Silicone is your friend

Good job with the silicone,(whoops, I mean 3-bond) LeFrog.

LINEAWEAVER · Nov 22, 2006

vinman1513 said:
Le Frog , your a genious , ,,,,,, while were on the subject of lock tight .. etc , . whilst disassembing my cam chain , i noticed the previous mechaniic had dabbed some glue like substance on the break link plate . i ussually use a little bit o silocone . but this stuff had to be pried off before i could remove the link , is this a standard procedure to have such a hard drying epoxy like substance on the link , or is that a little overboard , and will my silocone be fine ...

Properly cured "Silicone" is OE.
A hard brittle adhesive could cause trouble should it break free from the chain.

Hope this helps.
Dale

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