This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Looking for guy that makes the fuel tank...

C

ca-cycleworks

Joined Feb 2012
3 Posts | 5+
San Diego
Hey everyone,

I'm the guy that makes the FP-HUS pumps. Most of our products revolve around Ducatis and fuel tanks are among our offerings. Making fuel tanks has been such a pain in the butt that we now got our own rotational molding machine.

I'd like to get in touch with him to see if we can get his molds and manufacture these tanks for him.

Roto molding is an old and simple process but I found out it's also easy to make tanks that leak. We have dialed in our process to attain great quality upon manufacture and then we also pressurize the tank and dunk it in water to ensure it doesn't leak.

Anyhow, let's talk again!

Thanks,
Chris
 
  • Like
Reactions: 5 people
ca-cycleworks said:
Hey everyone,

I'm the guy that makes the FP-HUS pumps. Most of our products revolve around Ducatis and fuel tanks are among our offerings. Making fuel tanks has been such a pain in the butt that we now got our own rotational molding machine.

I'd like to get in touch with him to see if we can get his molds and manufacture these tanks for him.

Roto molding is an old and simple process but I found out it's also easy to make tanks that leak. We have dialed in our process to attain great quality upon manufacture and then we also pressurize the tank and dunk it in water to ensure it doesn't leak.

Anyhow, let's talk again!

Thanks,
Chris
Click to expand...

Hi, there's a lot of support on the Husaberg social media for your keen-ness to bring back the subframe tank as a V4 (version 4). So have a look on facebook, Husaberg Appreciation Society and Husaberg 70 Degree Riders...might get a few in there to front up. I currently run the safari, but I've been loosely on the hunt for a V3 for a while now. Hope you can make it happen :bow::bow::eek:ccasion5::hathat1::hathat1:
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 person
The 70* tanks loose a lot of volume due to the position of the breather. It needs to be more to the rear as there is quite an air pocket. I drilled a hole further rearward and screwed in a self tapper. It not only increases the capacity over standard but helps balance very quickly.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 person
Nobby2tires said:
Chris:
There is some old contact info at the end of this installation instructions, you can try it to track him down.
Click to expand...
Ah, yes, the 70degreeracing domain is taken over by a retailer. I did use the email elsewhere in the thread -- and it didn't bounce. Looks like that might have been successful.

octopusenvy said:
Hi, there's a lot of support on the Husaberg social media for your keen-ness to bring back the subframe tank as a V4 (version 4). So have a look on facebook, Husaberg Appreciation Society and Husaberg 70 Degree Riders...might get a few in there to front up. I currently run the safari, but I've been loosely on the hunt for a V3 for a while now. Hope you can make it happen :bow::bow::eek:ccasion5::hathat1::hathat1:
Click to expand...

Not sure there would be a "V4" ... I'm not keen on making changes requiring welding or creating new tooling. Changes I can do as a molder are:
  • Change the "shot" weight to alter part thickness.
  • Add heat with a plumber's torch in an area to increase part thickness.
  • Change out brass tubes for "pins" in the mold. Pull-pins create a tunnel of plastic. Our existing 5 piece mold used brass tubes and I ended up successfully changing them out for pull pins.
  • Move the breather to a new location: if the new location doesn't interfere with the existing location, I can machine a plug for the existing spot and then drill a hole at the new location.
I've heard about inserts leaking. I'm pretty good at making sure that doesn't happen. Leaks happen when air can escape the mold during the heat cycle. I normally will increase the vent size by drilling out to a larger size. I always use blind inserts and ensure they are fully encapsulated by the plastic. Once cool, I add 3 psi to the tank and dunk it in water.

To perform R&D requiring investment, I'd need pre-orders to cover the costs. I don't weld (yet) and don't have a CNC (hope to never need one).

Anyhow, all this is getting ahead of ourselves. I'm reaching out to see if the molds are still in existance and see about getting them in my oven. Lots of steps involved; just getting the molds here will probably be $500.

Hopefully, I can get permission to run the tanks. Molders hate motorcycle tanks, which is why I bought and rebuilt my own oven -- and I think I'll be a great molder for our industry. I spent a year trying to help a local molder run our 5 piece mold with dozens of bad parts. I made 1 bad part, changed a pin, then 20 good parts since. I think no one in history had that many successive good tanks come from that mold. :cool:

Thanks for y'all's support; I appreciate it,
Chris
 
Alan said:
The 70* tanks loose a lot of volume due to the position of the breather. It needs to be more to the rear as there is quite an air pocket. I drilled a hole further rearward and screwed in a self tapper. It not only increases the capacity over standard but helps balance very quickly.
Click to expand...

Good info. Did you plug the original breather hole or just keep it and T it in? Roughly how much farther rearward did you move it? I like your comment about faster equalization when filling. Some have mentioned it can be agonizingly slow to fill which is why I've yet to install my subframe tank (gen 3) I bought 3 years ago:eek:. Any issues with stressing the fuel pump with the subframe tank installed?
 
Dualsport4ever said:
Good info. Did you plug the original breather hole or just keep it and T it in? Roughly how much farther rearward did you move it? I like your comment about faster equalization when filling. Some have mentioned it can be agonizingly slow to fill which is why I've yet to install my subframe tank (gen 3) I bought 3 years ago:eek:. Any issues with stressing the fuel pump with the subframe tank installed?
Click to expand...

Breather still at original spot.

The biggest problem with the equalisation is the routing of the breather hose. I originally had it going down then back up to meet at the main tank breather. What I have done now is run the breather tube along the seat rail into the airbox and out further up where it runs along rad shroud. This helps equalise heaps quicker but not as quick as removing this screw. I have a hole in the rear plastics so I can access this screw. Now there is no hesitation in equalising and I gain some fuel.

Stressing fuel pump? Geez no.

Get that tank fitted.

I’ll get some pics up when I get back from my high country trip in a few days.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 2 people
70 degree tank

Chris,
Count me in if you plan on building a Tao for the 70 degree crowd.

Thank you,
Rich
 
Hi Chris, i plan to do a trip through central Aus in July and would be really keen for a sub frame tank for the trip.
 
Yes please

I'm close to pulling the trigger on a safari but would much rather have a subframe tank. I'll watch this for a while before I do anything.
 

Similar threads

K
AM fuel pump parts sourcing problems
Replies
1
Views
1K
o6550
o6550
husabutt
Large capacity fuel tank available in a few weeks
Replies
77
Views
15K
Gazza
G
D
Dale E O's 2009 Idaho City 100 ride report
Replies
13
Views
3K
kzoo
K

Register CTA

Register on Husaberg Forum! This sidebar will go away, and you will see fewer ads.

Recent Discussions