learning curve.

cypher · Nov 8, 2006

well now it would seem that the sprague clutch or part of it has gone south.
my own fault for starting from cold on button.

as described in various threads the strter mtr turns the engine over once then just spins out.

oh well time to drop the water again.

since i've had this berg i've learnt more about jetting and 4st's than i have in the last 20 yrs.

Johnf3 · Nov 8, 2006

cypher said:
well now it would seem that the sprague clutch or part of it has gone south.
my own fault for starting from cold on button.

as described in various threads the strter mtr turns the engine over once then just spins out.

oh well time to drop the water again.

since i've had this berg i've learnt more about jetting and 4st's than i have in the last 20 yrs.

If it makes you feel any better, my bike was updated by the dealer with the "new" part, and it still does the same thing as yours when it it is cold outside. I think the updated part just addressed the breakage issue, nothing else.

I inquired once again as to the reason this was happening, and they shrugged their shoulders and told me "it's a Husaberg thing--they all do that". I deal with it now as being just a routine thing, since my dealer couldn't help further. I don't know if the '06 and '07 models still have this issue?

berger · Nov 8, 2006

Valve adjustment is critical. Every Berg I have owned, I have to cheat with the manual decompressor lever to get them to start.
I pull in the the decompressor and hit the button. After a few revolutions I release the manual decompressor while the motor is still turning over and the bike will usually fire.

cypher · Nov 8, 2006

stripped the left side. gave the starter a quick tap and the free wheel just spins.
stripped it all out ready to fit the new piece
ordered the new clutch piece, Ã‚Â£28.

hopefully have it running for sunday.

Johnf3 · Nov 8, 2006

berger said:
Valve adjustment is critical. Every Berg I have owned, I have to cheat with the manual decompressor lever to get them to start.
I pull in the the decompressor and hit the button. After a few revolutions I release the manual decompressor while the motor is still turning over and the bike will usually fire.

Two different issues. There is nothing wrong with the starter as far as turning over the motor. It is a problem where the starter does not engage and just spins. Once it "catches", it turns the motor no problem.

Loose exhaust valves will cause the auto decomp. mechanism to not be effective, and cause the starter not to turn over the motor--it will also be hard to kick. Anyway, not the issue I describe above.

kez · Nov 8, 2006

Johnf3 said:
berger said:

Valve adjustment is critical. Every Berg I have owned, I have to cheat with the manual decompressor lever to get them to start.
I pull in the the decompressor and hit the button. After a few revolutions I release the manual decompressor while the motor is still turning over and the bike will usually fire.

Click to expand...

Two different issues. There is nothing wrong with the starter as far as turning over the motor. It is a problem where the starter does not engage and just spins. Once it "catches", it turns the motor no problem.

Loose exhaust valves will cause the auto decomp. mechanism to not be effective, and cause the starter not to turn over the motor--it will also be hard to kick. Anyway, not the issue I describe above.

Thats Not Quite Right,The Decomp Bobweight On The Cams For The Starter While The Extrenal Lever By The The Heads For The Kick Start And Little Lever By The Clutch,I've Found The External lever Will Decompress More Than The Weight.
If You Have A Tiring Starter Clutch And The Valve Are Loose So The Weight Cant Do Its Job Correctly Then It Might Increase the Load On The Clutch And Make It Spin With Out Turning over Then Engine.
I've Got this With The 400 At The Moment

Johnf3 · Nov 8, 2006

kez said:
Johnf3 said:

berger said:

Valve adjustment is critical. Every Berg I have owned, I have to cheat with the manual decompressor lever to get them to start.
I pull in the the decompressor and hit the button. After a few revolutions I release the manual decompressor while the motor is still turning over and the bike will usually fire.

Click to expand...

Two different issues. There is nothing wrong with the starter as far as turning over the motor. It is a problem where the starter does not engage and just spins. Once it "catches", it turns the motor no problem.

Loose exhaust valves will cause the auto decomp. mechanism to not be effective, and cause the starter not to turn over the motor--it will also be hard to kick. Anyway, not the issue I describe above.

Click to expand...

Thats Not Quite Right,The Decomp Bobweight On The Cams For The Starter While The Extrenal Lever By The The Heads For The Kick Start And Little Lever By The Clutch,I've Found The External lever Will Decompress More Than The Weight.
If You Have A Tiring Starter Clutch And The Valve Are Loose So The Weight Cant Do Its Job Correctly Then It Might Increase the Load On The Clutch And Make It Spin With Out Turning over Then Engine.
I've Got this With The 400 At The Moment

That makes sense explained that way. Mine only does it when cold, though, so I guess the extra load causing it to slip is just the thick oil. From owning a KTM RFS that required constant attention to valve lash, I have become used to checking them frequently on my Husaberg, even though the lash has not moved after initial break-in when new.

LeFrog · Nov 8, 2006

Cypher same issue here as well, for same reason.

The sprague will die and likely barely ever work, unless your bike is hot and in motion, in this case it's only good for restarting the bike after stalling it while in motion (useless when you stall in an uphill).

I wonder if only one part can be replaced, I will look into mine now that my left side cover is to stay open for a few more days for a reason I am too ashamed to divulge.

cypher · Nov 11, 2006

new clutch mechanism fitted and all wrking fine.

also replaced the fuel screw on the carb with a longer one that has a knob on the end so you can adjust it by hand and fitted a 38 pilot jet.

altering the idle knob and the fuel screw now have some effect as when i was running a 42 pilot you had to turn the idle knob full in or full out to have any effect.

once i had set the idle and fuel screw, i then fitted a 160 main instead of the 165.
think i prefered the 165 but will have to ride some more as the differences could have just been my imagination.

also went and ordered the part from germany that Artus used to fit the fcr mrk 2. its an alloy intake manifold which replaces the rubber ones on <03, makes things alot more secure and only took 3 days from germany, usually have to wait longer than that for prts from uk.

anyway thats all the fiddling i've done. just need to get out and ride more. [/img]

Taffy · Nov 11, 2006

frazer

it's only in sixth you should judge the MJ. if it's better there and the midrange has gone you must lift the needle. if it's better in 6th now and also in the midrange then the MJ is still too big!

if it's not better in 6th then you're doomed laddie! and it's Ã‚Â£3 wasted! but that won't happen IMHO.

regards

Taffy

cypher · Nov 11, 2006

got a long stretch of back rd that i blat up and down on to check the main jet.
plus its i've measured out exactly half a mile so handy for checking speedos are set up right.

Search

Search

learning curve.

cypher

Johnf3

berger

cypher

Johnf3

kez

Attachments

Johnf3

LeFrog

cypher

Taffy

cypher

Similar threads

Register CTA

Recent Discussions