Kokusan upgrade survey

Thanks Hakan,

That sounds like a great idea, and I'll check it out.

However, when the bike shuts off, and while it is slowing down, I have tried cycling the High/Low switch and nothing happens. When it dies, it's pretty much at always the same situation, I'm just barely cracking the throttle, like when exiting a turn, and you can hear the carb noise indicating that you're opening the throttle, but the bike is still declerating.

The last time it happened, when I came to a stop, and after having cycled the h/L switch numerous times, I checked to make sure the vent tube for the tank wasn't pinched, then turned on the choke and cranked it over a few times, then choke off, kicked a few times, then tried the button again and it started. It is truely weird.

It never happens as long as I leave the H/L switch in Low. And I know that if that circuit is open, I.E. the H/L switch leads unplugged, it automatically goes to the High setting.

Thanks again for your advice, I'll definitely check it out.

DaleO

DaleO,
You can hear the difference between Hi & Low on my bike when the throttle is opened part way(not much above idle). With FCR I leave it in Low all the time. The manual says to start the bike in Hi?
I dont actually understand how this switch operates? Does having it in Hi hold the revvzzz on longer?
Have you had a look inside the start switch, it gets corroded in there? I have actually installed a on/off switch between the start button as my bike has actually started by itself after washing.

scully

there's a joke in there somewhere about you a bike, and starting on it's own!

the ignition curve was displayed in the sales broshure (of all the places!). i believe by 'earthing out' you change the advance of one over 'tother.

i don't believe that there is any rev limit as such it's just that it won't produce the power with one compared to the other which is nearly the same difference.

Taffy

Yes, the high setting provides a more aggressive timing curve (more advance) at low RPM for more yank! After 6k RPM it is the same.

On my bike I would periodically have the earth circuit to the bars fail due to the anodized coating on the bars, when that ground is open the curve defaults to high. Clean the contact points on the bars and the switch would work again.

Taffffffffffy

Taffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy
What did you say? In English please!

scully

trust you got the bit about the sales broshure?

the advance and retard system of the ignition that you have in the form of 'high' or 'low' is to do with sort of earthing system. this changes the advance curve.

the bike won't rev out for no other reason than because 'high' robs you of top end power.

keep up at the back!

regards

Taffy