Hello people,
I've posted somewhere else in the electrical section on my continuing woes with the inadequate e-start performance of my 2002 FE400e... in short, it didn't e-start hot or cold despite all the suggested starter upgrades and perfect mechanical condition.
Many modifications later I found the real culprit (for me) was very very poor ignition performance during starting. I have built two solutions, both of which are simple, but one is so cheap it's perhaps worth me posting the details.
So having discovered an incredibly short spark duration and pitiful spark energy from the OE SEM ignition during kick and e-start, my first solution was to build an inductive ignition system. This uses a small ignition coil from a Sherco and a very simple driver. Digital electronics, fully programmable igntion curve, the whole works. Perfect starting hot or cold on the button... but it cost over 50€ in components plus the coil (it was free, lying around in my workshop). Not unreasonable, but I thought if anyone else wanted to do this, it's not the cheapest solution; I could do better.
Looking at the SEM system in fine detail showed the poor spark output was a result of very low capacitor charge-coil performance. I'd already subsituted a completely new SEM stator for the original 2002 part fitted to my bike, so that ruled-out a rewind as a fix. What about the rotor? Guessing poor magnetic performance I arranged for a loan of a 'new' flywheel. The new part had noticeably "stronger" magnets, based on the fantastically subjective measurement of sticking a screwdriver to them and feeling how difficult it was to pull it off again! Fitted, this just about fixed the problem: the bike would start after a few seconds of cranking. Price? 180€ Way above what I'd be prepared to pay, so it went back...
Reasoning the output of the capacitor charge coils was too low, and this was only a problem for starting (the ignition was fine once the engine was started), why not try to augment the charge coils a bit during cranking?? Adding a 3€ CCFL inverter in parallel with the charge coil output told me the answer... a resounding yes! It works!
I've wired the 12V invertor supply via the starter solenoid control so it's only 'on' during e-start cranking, and the output of the invertor (400V AC) permanantly to the red wire of the CDI.
First time starting every time, hot and cold, directly off the e-start button! For only 3€. I call that a success.
I'm not expecting any response, but if anyone wants more detail either post here or send me a PM.
Cheers... Paul
I've posted somewhere else in the electrical section on my continuing woes with the inadequate e-start performance of my 2002 FE400e... in short, it didn't e-start hot or cold despite all the suggested starter upgrades and perfect mechanical condition.
Many modifications later I found the real culprit (for me) was very very poor ignition performance during starting. I have built two solutions, both of which are simple, but one is so cheap it's perhaps worth me posting the details.
So having discovered an incredibly short spark duration and pitiful spark energy from the OE SEM ignition during kick and e-start, my first solution was to build an inductive ignition system. This uses a small ignition coil from a Sherco and a very simple driver. Digital electronics, fully programmable igntion curve, the whole works. Perfect starting hot or cold on the button... but it cost over 50€ in components plus the coil (it was free, lying around in my workshop). Not unreasonable, but I thought if anyone else wanted to do this, it's not the cheapest solution; I could do better.
Looking at the SEM system in fine detail showed the poor spark output was a result of very low capacitor charge-coil performance. I'd already subsituted a completely new SEM stator for the original 2002 part fitted to my bike, so that ruled-out a rewind as a fix. What about the rotor? Guessing poor magnetic performance I arranged for a loan of a 'new' flywheel. The new part had noticeably "stronger" magnets, based on the fantastically subjective measurement of sticking a screwdriver to them and feeling how difficult it was to pull it off again! Fitted, this just about fixed the problem: the bike would start after a few seconds of cranking. Price? 180€ Way above what I'd be prepared to pay, so it went back...
Reasoning the output of the capacitor charge coils was too low, and this was only a problem for starting (the ignition was fine once the engine was started), why not try to augment the charge coils a bit during cranking?? Adding a 3€ CCFL inverter in parallel with the charge coil output told me the answer... a resounding yes! It works!
I've wired the 12V invertor supply via the starter solenoid control so it's only 'on' during e-start cranking, and the output of the invertor (400V AC) permanantly to the red wire of the CDI.
First time starting every time, hot and cold, directly off the e-start button! For only 3€. I call that a success.
I'm not expecting any response, but if anyone wants more detail either post here or send me a PM.
Cheers... Paul
