Yes but that video doesn't work, it craps out after a few minutes.
I believe their is a fix in the works.
I believe their is a fix in the works.
Bob,
Read this all the way through before using this as a guide.
with the vlave covers off, the ignition cover off,the spark plug out, push the motor through several times watching the intake and exhaust valves open and close.
You will notice that when the intake valves open, the piston is going DOWN on the intake stroke. Then, as you keep pushing on the kick starter the motor will kind of fee wheel, the intake valves will snap shut, and you will hear a puff of air come out of the spark plug hole, this is the compression stroke. As you keep pushing the kick starter through, the piston is now going down on the power stroke, when the piston reaches the bottom and starts to come back up you will see the exhaust valves open and it will be coming back up on the exhaust stroke.
As the piston comes to the top again, you will see the exhaust valves close and the intakes will begin to open, this is top dead center where you DO NOT WANT TO ADJUST THE VALVES. This is known as overlap Top Dead Center.
As I said before, as you continue to push the kickstater through, the intakes will fully open, and as the piston approaches the bottom of the stroke, the intakes will begin to close, as I stated before the engine will free wheel a bit here. Now, put a LONG plastic ty wrap into the spark plug hole, and, using a 17mm end wrench, not a socket with a ratchet, on the nut that holds the flywheel on, continue to spin the engine in the direction it was going when you were pushing on the kickstarter. Watch the ty wrap as you turn the motor, you will see the piston pushing the ty wrap up out of the hole. Do this very slowly, and you will come to a point where the ty wrap no longer is moving up even though you are still turning the crankshaft, this the TDC or top dead center of the compression stroke, and THIS IS WHERE YOU WANT TO ADJUST THE VALVES.
NOTE: If you try and turn the motor backwards it will be very difficult because you will be engaging the starter sprag of the electric start, and you will be turning the electric start motor too. Just keep going in the direction that the kickstarter spins the motor, and come around again.
If you go past TDC, no problem, just keep turning the motor with your wrench and watch the ty wrap go down on the power stroke, up again on the exhaust stroke, down again on the intake stroke, and as you come up again you'll be on the power stroke. ( Keep a firm grip on the wrench at all times as I mentioned before the motor will want to free wheel a bit after the intake stroke and if you're not paying attention you could get your fingers pinched. It's not going to rip the wrench out of your hands, but, if you're not ready for it, it can surprise you. Voice of experience speaking here.) keep going till you get back close to TDC on the compression stroke, now just take your time and slowly turn the crank with your wrench and wait for the ty wrap to stop moving up. Wa-Lah! you're back at TDC on the compression stroke where you want to adjust the valves.
Look carefully at your flywheel and motor casings, on my 04, there is a red line that was obviously put there by hand at TDC at the factory, a mark on the cases, and another on the flywheel. If it's there, and you followed the above procedure, it will just give you some conformation that you have arrived at the correct spot. If the marks are there but are not lined up, and you would have to move the flywheel a bit to get them lined up, try doing so and keep an eye on the tywrap if you don't see it move any, don't worry, you're there. You could only see movement of the tywrap at this point if you had a dial indicator on it, trust me, you're close enough. If you really want to be sure, do as Dale Lineaweaver suggests, and get the locking bolt as described in the 2005 repair manual and insert it on the compression TDC as directed in the book. But, I don't think the bolt is necessary.
Now that you're there, check the amount of clearance first, you may not need to adjust the valves. When checking the clearance, be sure you push the feeler gauge back and forth parallel with the rocker arm shafts, or parallel with the crank shaft. Be careful with the feeler gauge, do not force it! It will break off and fall down into the rocker box and you will have to retrieve it with a small pencil (uh oh) shaped magnet. This has happened to me in the past, if it happens to you do not panic. And what ever you do, do not start the bike, or poor oil through the valve cover in an attempt to flush it out. You will not get away with this and You will be sad.
Loosen the lock nut of the valve to be adjusted and back it off a turn or so, turn the adjuster ( the screw with a slot in it for a screw driver) counter clockwise to increase the gap, and clock wise to decrease the gap. I usually just open up the gap so I can get my feeler gauge in there easier, and then gently turn the adjust down onto it. There should be noticable drag on the feeler gauge, but, not so tight you can barely move it. With the feeler gauge still in place snug up on the lock nut, and check the feel of the feeler gauge. If it has not changed, tighten the nut to the torque specified in the book, and check it again, if it's changed do it over and set a bit looser intially, if it doesn't change you're done with that one. You do not want to overtighten these nuts, as they will deform the adjuster nut threads, and it will be a ***** from then on when ever you want to adjust the valves. I'm not going to go into that now, just don't over tighten them. Get yourself a small torque wrench and use it, you'll be happier in the long run. (Again this is the voice of experience talking here)
Always allow plenty of time to do this procedure, turn off the phone,radio,tv, etc... don't do it in the company of others, do it all alone in a quiet place without any distractions. Don't rush!!
I hope this helps.
Read this all the way through before using this as a guide.
with the vlave covers off, the ignition cover off,the spark plug out, push the motor through several times watching the intake and exhaust valves open and close.
You will notice that when the intake valves open, the piston is going DOWN on the intake stroke. Then, as you keep pushing on the kick starter the motor will kind of fee wheel, the intake valves will snap shut, and you will hear a puff of air come out of the spark plug hole, this is the compression stroke. As you keep pushing the kick starter through, the piston is now going down on the power stroke, when the piston reaches the bottom and starts to come back up you will see the exhaust valves open and it will be coming back up on the exhaust stroke.
As the piston comes to the top again, you will see the exhaust valves close and the intakes will begin to open, this is top dead center where you DO NOT WANT TO ADJUST THE VALVES. This is known as overlap Top Dead Center.
As I said before, as you continue to push the kickstater through, the intakes will fully open, and as the piston approaches the bottom of the stroke, the intakes will begin to close, as I stated before the engine will free wheel a bit here. Now, put a LONG plastic ty wrap into the spark plug hole, and, using a 17mm end wrench, not a socket with a ratchet, on the nut that holds the flywheel on, continue to spin the engine in the direction it was going when you were pushing on the kickstarter. Watch the ty wrap as you turn the motor, you will see the piston pushing the ty wrap up out of the hole. Do this very slowly, and you will come to a point where the ty wrap no longer is moving up even though you are still turning the crankshaft, this the TDC or top dead center of the compression stroke, and THIS IS WHERE YOU WANT TO ADJUST THE VALVES.
NOTE: If you try and turn the motor backwards it will be very difficult because you will be engaging the starter sprag of the electric start, and you will be turning the electric start motor too. Just keep going in the direction that the kickstarter spins the motor, and come around again.
If you go past TDC, no problem, just keep turning the motor with your wrench and watch the ty wrap go down on the power stroke, up again on the exhaust stroke, down again on the intake stroke, and as you come up again you'll be on the power stroke. ( Keep a firm grip on the wrench at all times as I mentioned before the motor will want to free wheel a bit after the intake stroke and if you're not paying attention you could get your fingers pinched. It's not going to rip the wrench out of your hands, but, if you're not ready for it, it can surprise you. Voice of experience speaking here.) keep going till you get back close to TDC on the compression stroke, now just take your time and slowly turn the crank with your wrench and wait for the ty wrap to stop moving up. Wa-Lah! you're back at TDC on the compression stroke where you want to adjust the valves.
Look carefully at your flywheel and motor casings, on my 04, there is a red line that was obviously put there by hand at TDC at the factory, a mark on the cases, and another on the flywheel. If it's there, and you followed the above procedure, it will just give you some conformation that you have arrived at the correct spot. If the marks are there but are not lined up, and you would have to move the flywheel a bit to get them lined up, try doing so and keep an eye on the tywrap if you don't see it move any, don't worry, you're there. You could only see movement of the tywrap at this point if you had a dial indicator on it, trust me, you're close enough. If you really want to be sure, do as Dale Lineaweaver suggests, and get the locking bolt as described in the 2005 repair manual and insert it on the compression TDC as directed in the book. But, I don't think the bolt is necessary.
Now that you're there, check the amount of clearance first, you may not need to adjust the valves. When checking the clearance, be sure you push the feeler gauge back and forth parallel with the rocker arm shafts, or parallel with the crank shaft. Be careful with the feeler gauge, do not force it! It will break off and fall down into the rocker box and you will have to retrieve it with a small pencil (uh oh) shaped magnet. This has happened to me in the past, if it happens to you do not panic. And what ever you do, do not start the bike, or poor oil through the valve cover in an attempt to flush it out. You will not get away with this and You will be sad.
Loosen the lock nut of the valve to be adjusted and back it off a turn or so, turn the adjuster ( the screw with a slot in it for a screw driver) counter clockwise to increase the gap, and clock wise to decrease the gap. I usually just open up the gap so I can get my feeler gauge in there easier, and then gently turn the adjust down onto it. There should be noticable drag on the feeler gauge, but, not so tight you can barely move it. With the feeler gauge still in place snug up on the lock nut, and check the feel of the feeler gauge. If it has not changed, tighten the nut to the torque specified in the book, and check it again, if it's changed do it over and set a bit looser intially, if it doesn't change you're done with that one. You do not want to overtighten these nuts, as they will deform the adjuster nut threads, and it will be a ***** from then on when ever you want to adjust the valves. I'm not going to go into that now, just don't over tighten them. Get yourself a small torque wrench and use it, you'll be happier in the long run. (Again this is the voice of experience talking here)
Always allow plenty of time to do this procedure, turn off the phone,radio,tv, etc... don't do it in the company of others, do it all alone in a quiet place without any distractions. Don't rush!!
I hope this helps.
When the Tie strap is at the highest point my timing marks do not completely line up.....off about a fat mm :? If I line up the timing marks and look at how far down the strap has dropped its about the same as previously mentioned.......I have searched this topic before and have found most use the 1/6 th method.... as opposed to the feeler gauge.... I know the feeler gauge is a pain because of the space but I can't imagine a more precise way of doing the adjustment.... as mentioned I used the 1/6th method and was surprised that it worked as well.....when using the 1/6th method its very tough to insure the clearance has not moved while tightning down the nut.....do the valves really need to be that exact ???
:?
:?
Joined Oct 2005
687 Posts | 0+
Folsom, CA
Thanks Dale for the patient long n detailed instructions. I will print that out and study the stroke and valve motion till I get it in my thick head what's what and when/where am I in the cycle.
1/6th turn........I thought it was 1/8" turn ?
still to be clear, I have down loaded the 06 husaberg owner's manul as one did not come with my bike. that owner's manula says zippity doo dah about adjusting valve play.
not only that but page 58 lists the valve clearance cold instake and exhaust as 0.12mm that's a lot closer to 0.005 inches then 0.004
0.004 = .102mm
0.005=.127mm
doing some home work to get my terms down
valve covers
rocker arms asembly or CPL.
valve adjust screw
valve adjust nut
valve collet- that liitle thing that looks like a shim between the valve spring top and the underside of the rocker arm
ignition case not identified must be right side funny the cover is not shown on iso view page 64 but listed as part 2 - ignition cover - wrong its shown in reverse, view is from inside out.
torque for counter nut, adjust nut = 11nm or 8 ftlbs
read that KTM adjustment write up - helpfull too.
1/6th turn........I thought it was 1/8" turn ?
still to be clear, I have down loaded the 06 husaberg owner's manul as one did not come with my bike. that owner's manula says zippity doo dah about adjusting valve play.
not only that but page 58 lists the valve clearance cold instake and exhaust as 0.12mm that's a lot closer to 0.005 inches then 0.004
0.004 = .102mm
0.005=.127mm
doing some home work to get my terms down
valve covers
rocker arms asembly or CPL.
valve adjust screw
valve adjust nut
valve collet- that liitle thing that looks like a shim between the valve spring top and the underside of the rocker arm
ignition case not identified must be right side funny the cover is not shown on iso view page 64 but listed as part 2 - ignition cover - wrong its shown in reverse, view is from inside out.
torque for counter nut, adjust nut = 11nm or 8 ftlbs
read that KTM adjustment write up - helpfull too.
Joined Apr 2002
1K Posts | 3+
fallon nv
FWIW I found Dale Eo's and Logjump's valve adjustment to be so easy and if you just follow the steps it will all work out just fine. Don't OVER THINK it. I found it to be harder to use the feeler guage and the 1/8 - 1/6 method works real well. I also found the valve adjustment tool from Motion Pro to be a must for me. It will let you hold the screw part while tightening the nut and weather you use the 1/6 or 1/8 method is real easy because the screwdriver part is indexed with marks. I think the tool cost about $20 or so. I made a Grok tool first but found it a pain to hold the screwdriver and really like the Motion Pro tool.
Like they said use the long Ziptie on the first time and make you a mark on the flywheel and then you never need to put anything in the cylinder again.
Remember , working on the bike is just like being lost or stuck in the bottom of a new drainage with no way out and getting dark and have no idea where the truck is , it's all part of ....................
THE ADVENTURE!
Like they said use the long Ziptie on the first time and make you a mark on the flywheel and then you never need to put anything in the cylinder again.
Remember , working on the bike is just like being lost or stuck in the bottom of a new drainage with no way out and getting dark and have no idea where the truck is , it's all part of ....................
THE ADVENTURE!
Joined Oct 2005
687 Posts | 0+
Folsom, CA
comment on the pencil from a thumpertalker.
the pencil "lead" is graphite and won't burn, probably pulverized and sticking to the oily cylinder walls and wearing your rings. he advises flushing out the cylinder walls with solvent and changing my oil.
hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm? comments?
the pencil "lead" is graphite and won't burn, probably pulverized and sticking to the oily cylinder walls and wearing your rings. he advises flushing out the cylinder walls with solvent and changing my oil.
hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm? comments?
Joined Nov 2001
17K Posts | 774+
Ely, England
comments?
how about bollocks! and BS and ....
ride it bob there is nothing wrong with your bike at all!
i've heard of screws, nuts and washers all dropped in. they all find a way out.
the gap between the piston and the valve is 5mm at the closest point. that means your pencil needed to be a nail that was 6mm wide to do any damage. no chance!
thing is; wasn't my place to say was it but i knew all along it'd be good. at least i put my mouth where my mouth was!
regards
Taffy
how about bollocks! and BS and ....
ride it bob there is nothing wrong with your bike at all!
i've heard of screws, nuts and washers all dropped in. they all find a way out.
the gap between the piston and the valve is 5mm at the closest point. that means your pencil needed to be a nail that was 6mm wide to do any damage. no chance!
thing is; wasn't my place to say was it but i knew all along it'd be good. at least i put my mouth where my mouth was!
regards
Taffy
Joined Jul 2001
3K Posts | 1+
El Sobrante, Ca. 94803
Build your home on solid footing!
Understand the basics: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Four-stroke_cycle
Hope this helps.
Sincerely,
Dale
Understand the basics: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Four-stroke_cycle
Hope this helps.
Sincerely,
Dale
Joined Jul 2001
3K Posts | 1+
El Sobrante, Ca. 94803
bigbob,bigbob said:
as per your previous comment:
bigbob said:
With such a small amount of pencil being lost in your cylinder and only a small percentage of that being graphite you have nothing to worry about. In fact, many locksmiths and other mechanics use powdered graphite as a lubricant. The speedometer cable in your vehicle is lubed with it, the door knobs on your house are lubed with it, all different kinds of crap is lubed with graphite. Besides, we are talking a few grams here :ky: !!!
My best advise to you is to just stay away from those :stoopyd: :silly: :withstupid: :confused1: :crazy: meatheads over there. What need do you have for such a barbaric place when you have these :idea: :holy: :2cool: :drinking: :knight: :brave: :headbang: :usa2: :thumbright: fine and classy gentleman right here.... and Taffy too!
Regards,
sandskipper said:
not to sound elitist But ...... LMFAO! You summed it up... well except for they guys who frequent the "exotic" forum have alter egos here... oh and you for got to include nicver...err.. um.. lefrog because along with Taff... people just might excuse him... as a nobody... but hell who am I to talk! .. I am just a wanna be.. I have PW50 sitting in the garage and i look real funny riding it...
(just razing ya Frog!
)
Joined Dec 2002
759 Posts | 0+
western NC
I still use a feeler gauge. Sounds like I`m behind the times again. So to clarify .004=1/8th of a turn right?
BigBob I use a long zip tie to find TDC just to make sure. Never hurts. Always take your time and use a bright light and stay away from pencils :lol:
BigBob I use a long zip tie to find TDC just to make sure. Never hurts. Always take your time and use a bright light and stay away from pencils :lol:
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