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I hate working blind on stuff I don't know about

I must say, I've learned more from this thread than anything I have read in a long time.

When Patrick and I innocently asked Bob on Saturday, "How often do you check the valves ?", who could have known the consequences ?

Best wishes, Bob.
I admire your perseverance.

Cheers,

Brett Saunders
 
It's the brake pedal side.

What about blowing compressed air through the carb inlet?
 
Enough!

Bob,
Pull the ignition cover (right side)

Using a suitable socket and bar gently rotate the crankshaft counter clockwise until the piston is near BDC. (Bottom Dead Center)

Unless the pencil is stuck to the head it will now be in plain view with the piston near the bottom of its stroke.

Use whatever means necessary to attach one end of the pencil fragment and extract it.

I know, I know, easier said than done. However, with the piston near the bottom of its stroke you should be able to clearly see your target.

Hang in there, You will get it.

Hope this helps.

Sincerely,
Dale
 
I think I would look in there a while more and see if you can spot it. Have you thought about this? While the bike is upside down see if you can flush it out with gas or something like that. Wood floats it might be a little messy though so be prepared.
When I check my valves I remove the cover on the right side of engine and turn the engine over there. Also remove the inspection covers that way when the engine is at TDC and the rockers are loose is when you check the clearances.
With flushing you might be able to shift it around enough to get the pencil out or be able to get something in there to pull it out. Good luck. Its a lot like fishing and I hope this helps.
 
I would not start that motorcycle until I was absolutely sure that all of that pencil was gone! Can you read the writing on the cylinder wall? :)
 
if fuel was not so flammable... i would suggest putting the bike at BDC and filling the cylinder with fuel, stir it around a bit and then using a wet/dry vac (empty of course) and a vacuum tube (go to the nearest Tractor supply store or hardware store and get the biggest Diameter tube you can find that will still fit down the sparkplug hole) duct tape the tube to the end of the vacuum hose and suck all the fuel out along with the bits and pieces of pencil. if you can find something that is not so flammable to use but that wont harm the motor like made some really light weight oil... i would try that although you may ruin your vacuum tube and vacuum filter... but then those are cheaper than paying dans mechanic.


IF YOU DO THIS AND YOU HAPPEN TO SPARK OFF THE vacuum>>> I ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITY>>> :blob6:
 
Bike is fine, problem gone. As I buttoned up the bike, I saw more wood chips stuck on oil drips on frame that fell out. Looked at original pencil, realized only about a finger tip, 1/2" of pencil was lost in there to begin with. Too small to fret about anymore I figured. So I took the bet and hoped the remaining parts would fire up and out of there. Tried to kick start would not go, used E start some choke then almost fired then some hot start then fired died, then choke again and BINGO bike came up running perfect. I let it warm up turned off choke, let idle for a while and it idled good.

I swear I melt burned wood :) ran the thottle sound ed all good.

BTW I installed my new jetting, went for a ride around the block and BIKE RUNS SPOT on PERFECT. I AM DA MAN!!!!!!!! thanks dale.

thanks taffy thanks joeusa, cota, snadpiper, all you guys all who helped me mentally get thru this and most of all thank you Husaberg for giving me a strong bike, one I can't hurt. :) :bow: :bounce3: :teeth: :n00b: :angel: :mrgreen:
 
Well Bob, maybe you have not quite figured out how to find TDC yet, but I am assured you know how NOT to find it. :D :D

Good deal it all turned out OK.
 
Now that this problem is solved BigBob ,on your bike on the front left lower engine case below the exhaust pipes there is a plug that is the TDC locater.In your manual approx two pages before the valve adjustment heading you will see where this is mentioned.You need to remove the plug and use the berg tool or you can easily make your own as it is a bolt slightly longer than the plug with the final few threads ground off.
Remove the stator cover and the valve covers,turn the engine over until compression is felt,slowly rotate the crankshaft forward until the locating tool aligns with the hole in the crankshaft.lock the crankshaft by tightening the bolt.This is TDC,adjust the valves using the $5.00 motion pro feeler gauge they make for this application. Replace your locator with the plug and button things up....your done.
 
Wheew, I could not handle the suspense any longer! Is he gona flood his bike with oil and other solvents?..... is he gona drop it on himself while suspended from his ceiling in the garage?...... is he gona blow his garage up?..... is he gona loose the kitchen spatchula in his cylinder???? Man I was sweating this one out bigbob!!! Glad to hear is all back together and running again.

Now to the other question??? Are you sure the jetting is spot on now because I remember reading somewhere that graphite, polymers and on occasion wood can lead to an enrichened condition but when fully dissipated can lead to overly lean conditions ending up in piston seizure!!! :lol:

Ride on!

Regards,
 
bob

don't forget you've been running on leaded :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

regards

taffy
 
Bob...... I adjusted my valves for the very first time a few weeks ago......this method was the easiest for me.....as well was really hard to ---- up !! just learning bike engines :oops:
I pulled the R.H. cover off and moved it off to one side.
I hand pushed the kick starter (slowly) with my thumb over the open plug hole to determine compression stroke, as soon as I found it I put a long srewdriver down there gently (I made a bunch of marks on the screw driver as reference points) at this point I hand turned the flywheel till the driver was at the furthest point up/out, the nice thing about the flywheel is you can go back a wee bit till it is exact.....If you look at the flywheel you will see the mark is at the top just as a reference, then do you 1/6th rule with the valves and button up......I cut an allen wrench at the short side more than half off to get the forward bolts nearest the rad....the bike starts now with ease and has seen 2 flat track days WOT in second gear....not to say I have anywhere the knowledge as some of these characters... but you and I are garage fix it guys.... I am buying the TDC gauge thingy ma bopper for sure though !! In fact I'm over due to take my bike down to BOSS so he can check the jetting etc and make sure all is well for the upcoming SM racing season :rock:
 
I am glad it worked out and that the pencil did not have the rubber thingy with the iron sleeve, that would have been a mess.

I am trying to think about what the best homemade TDC tool could be, I thought the idea of the old spark plug was not too bad, but why not insert something that would slide through it but not disappear into the cylinder forever, like a big nail with a dull tip?

You could use the same nail and mark TDC with a Sharpie, for instance, and even put a mark where it's at 1/6 of a turn for your valve adjustment.

Sorry, just another idea.
 
Ok, a trick I was showed by a Honda Tech in Dallas that I have used on different bikes for many years. First pull the valve inspection covers and spark plug. Turn the engine over by your hand on the kickstarter til you see the intake valve opening. Now, slowly turn the engine . When the valve rides over the hump it will tend to turn the engine for you. The valve will be off the lobe at least 120BTDC so even though momentum tends to carry the rotation on a bit, it usually stops at around 30 BTDC. I use a long craftsman phillips screwdriver to touch the piston. What you don't want now is for the engine to take off turning in a large chunk. Will put you over TDC and break your pencil as well. Don't push steadily, instead using the take up slack in the kickstarter, use your hand to tap on the engagement point. Every tap of the kickstarter will move the piston up a few degrees. As soon as you feel the piston stop or rock a degree over TDC stop and adjust the valves here. TDC doesn't need to be perfect like when setting static timing or installing cam chain. Your long past the decompressor and exhaust opening is an eternity away. With practice it takes only a few seconds.
dan
 
BB,just think of the great story you can ramble on about around the campfire with your buddies! :twisted:
 
I have tried to read everyones' detailed posts on TDC and BTC and thios way and that way.......... but still I find my self staring at my bike like a lost puppy dog. Rotating the piston and looking at the valves ..........I'm still lost.

so I am gonna take my bike to dan and have his mechanic adjust my valves and I will stand over him and LEARN.

sorry I am that stupid on this......I can see stuff but I can't interpret it so can't interpret when the cam lobes are right, when the spring is right. I can't interpret the spring and valve movement enough to know what the hell I'm doing,.. I need it spoon fed to me.

long post, did you know in creating such a site that more posts the less value they have. this one has reached saturation. I'm out of here. Till the next time we meet. happy holidays all.
 
Gotta disagree bobbie. I think this post in particular has more information posted than most. At least I can understand most of it.

I just adjusted my valves and now with new information gained here I am going to do it again just to double check.

Sit down with an R+C and absorb the info, it's not that hard.
If I can do it you can do it has been said many times before but in this case it's all too true.
Can you change your own tires? Adjusting valves is way easier.

Having said all that I would LOVE to watch someone do an adjustment.

Keep the faith bro.
 

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