How to Press crank pin

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Joined
May 28, 2011
Messages
700
Location
Wisconsin, U.S.
Ok like the title says, any tips on pressing the crank pin out to replace the rod bearing? this is a 1997 fe600e.
The bike is equipt with electric start and due to this there is the gear that meshes with the counter balancer in the way of the pin. The gear is pressed onto the crankshaft and it covers half of the conecting rod pin making it a challenge to press out because you cant get directly at the pin.

Is there a way i can remove the gear? i tried to leave it in place and press around it with a smaller diameter object but couldnt get an object that wouldnt start to tweak out under pressure.....

also tried to heat the gear to see if it would pop off with light pressure but no go.......

any tips?
 
Usually a pressed on gear needs to be heated cherry red hot before it will move.be sure you mark the position of the gear in case it needs to installed in the same location when you reheat it to replace it.
Often it is false economy to try and just replace the bottom end rod bearing itself as there is wear on the rod as well.
A rod kit is usually the better bet.
in this case you can cut the old rod and pin from the crank and press the pin from the inside out and then press off the offending gear from the now exposed pin.
Good luck
 
The gear has a hold down bolt so it is obvious how to go back on. I was hoping the rod would be good still, planned on using a micrometer to measure to see if the rod is still a perfect circle or out of round before replacing it simply do to cost if its not bad id reuse it....i did notice that there is .008" movment up and down but no movement when trying to move it sidewasy which already is a bad indication that the rod is bad but you dont know till its in your hand i guess.....

I did heat the gear but not till it was red, i didnt want to make it brittle with too much heat. my only experience with that is with tone rings on differentials or axle shafts, of flywheel teeth on automotive work, they generally require less heat than what i put into this gear to get them off, hot but not red.....

thanks for the quick reply
 
After more thought I can see how simple that would make the job, to cut the rod and pin i mean, maybe i just need a better tool and a better press....or more money and just buy a rod kit....is it raining there? It is here, hopefully tomorrows a better day......

:cheers:

not that i can complain, i have put a moderate-hard 120hrs on it and the original owner put another 11 years of riding and some unknown amount of hours (i assume a lot) its done its job...
 
Bergini,
I'm not familiar with your model, but surely a gear puller would work?
Could you post a picture of the crank?
Cheers... Paul
 
thanks for trying to help, i always appreciate it.

the gear is flat agaist the weight and there is no way to get a puller around the back of it, the only space between the gear and the weight is anough to get the tip of a flat blade screw driver behind the tapered section at the top of the gear teeth and not enough to get a "normal" puller on that thing, it is on quite tight.

either way i think i got the whole thing sorted, i know a guy in california who seems to have about everything for these earlier models and he had one NOS husaberg 600 rod kit left, my crank is in trasit to him and and he is going to press it in for me and true it too as he has done them many many times and knows better than me on this and is giving me a good guy price i couldnt say no to.
 
Bergini,
short of a picture, this sounds very much like the way the later cranks are configured. Getting the balancer off the crank has never posed a problem for me as they always yield to the might of a small two-leg puller. Mine is a Facom, but I'm very sure Snap-on will do something with thin enough 'fingers' too. Failing that, I'd use two screwdrivers applied behind the gear to apply a bit of leverage. I've used this technique once with success. You'll not get the balancer all the way off, but you should be able to lift it high enough to get the fat fingers of a big puller underneath the gear.

It's a bit moot if your crank is already on its way to some surgery elsewhere, but maybe it'll help you out the next time around.

Cheers... Paul
 

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