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gearing for a 570 please?

Joined Nov 2001
17K Posts | 774+
Ely, England
Hi i'm new here, barely posted but just wanted to say; 'hello'. :D

I need to know the correct gearing for a 570. :D I can't decide whether it's 13/52 or 12/49? i tried 12/48 but the engine just went round and round and that was no good so i tried 12/47 and then 13/51? :D my favourite was 13/50 after i had tried 1348 which was around the renaissance period? :D

bare with me as I'm a newbie :twisted:

rugrats

Taffy
 
Damn newbies..... I luv's the 14/52 for everything but the super gnarly stuff....for that I say pass....
 
13/53...........

Get's the axle towards the back, and you can throw on a 14 front if it's going to be really open stuff. Just did a National Hare and Hound and found that with the 13/53 there was a gear for every situation. Just a tad a short for the dry lake bed, but everywhere else it was awesome.

First was great for the gnarliest stuff, and the rest were all pretty close together, perfect gear for every situation.
 
Taffy said:
Hi i'm new here, barely posted but just wanted to say; 'hello'. :D

On behalf of UHE let me extend a warm and heart filled welcome to you sir. At UHE all Husaberg riders are welcome, even if your stead is the newer fancy pants LDC model. May your stay be a pleasant and fulfilling one.

Taffy said:
I need to know the correct gearing for a 570. :D I can't decide whether it's 13/52 or 12/49? i tried 12/48 but the engine just went round and round and that was no good so i tried 12/47 and then 13/51? :D my favourite was 13/50 after i had tried 1348 which was around the renaissance period? :D

bare with me as I'm a newbie :twisted:

rugrats

Taffy

Most of the gearing for the new LDC engined bikes was cleared up in this post below. Go to page 4 and the 7th post down. That should makes things a lot clearer.
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=12313&
 
I like to run 14 38 and ride everywhere at 130 km/hr so my cooling fan windmills and powers the ecu for my go fast square wheel.
 
arrived+-+my+570+cropped.JPG
:p :p :p

you lot really didn't guess did ya! :lol: :lol:

I should have guessed my parody would go unnoticed - sheesh! worra bunch! :roll: :roll:

I can say it again at last: does my bum look big in this! :rock: :rock: :rock:

regards

Taffy
 
hey you'll only have to move the front wheel back 160mm to get any weight on it :twisted:

Taffy seriously I wan't to know if it tips in on corner entry easier than the old bike

it has been said that the higher COG helps with the tip in. IMO that is bolloks the higher the COG the greater the moment of inertia bout the contact patch and the harder it is to tip the bike in but ......

grab a wood router hold it orientated like the crank then turn it in the horizontal plane as your bike turns just on corner entry as you lean it over, notice the gyroscopic inertia tries to roll the router (bike) over into the turn

when you lean the bike it pivots about the wheels contact patch on teh ground so by raising the crank right up in the sky they have made the cranks influence over leaning WORSE! but in theory it should help actually...

let us know
 
when you turn left or right it is only the front of the bike that turns - the rear follows. it's like a lorry - (truck:USA) the tractor unit sweeps round while the trailer tyres barely move.

any change of position for the crank is bad for it. the crank should have the swing arm pivoting on the end. the gearbox should be ahead of it and therefore the engine the other way round. why not take the very latest yamaha YZ with the laid back cylinder, turn it round, then you have the perfect set up except for drive to the rear wheel.

R & D men will tell you - all being well where they would like the SA pivot.
work out the minimum ground clearance
put the crank at the SA pivot
Now the skill is lining the drive up to leave the crank and reach the final drive from there. gearbox over? under?

another good engine would be the rear cylinder on a V-twin. they lay back!

regards

Taffy
 
Taffy said:
any change of position for the crank is bad for it.

bad for what?

I just pointed out its actually good for initial turn in

have you ridden it yet or what? :D

rotary mounted on the s arm pivot with planetary gearbox could work
 
the lower the C of G the further over you have to lean the bike. so a low C of G is not the B all and end all.

I don't think a crank likes to do anything around the axial.

however, if it had a crank across the bike like a sopwith camel or a guzzi - well as long as you turn only one way the crank is amazing!

regards

Taffy
 
Taffy said:
bare with me as I'm a newbie :twisted:



Taffy


Welcome to the site Taffy. This is a fantastic community and the wealth of knowledge is openly shared by all.

First things first.
Read the doc!
Study it-
Learn it-
Memorize it- (there will be a test)

Once the doc is engrained in your brain, you need to realize it has absolutely nothing to do with your new ride. :D




Congrats on your new bike. It's about time mister!!!! We all look forward to the mods you'll make to bring out the true potential. You know you'll have to cut away part of the frame to fit the FCR 41 you're dying install. :twisted:
 
So IS the site healthy now ? Looking forward to seeing the wheel re invented :lol:
 
Taffy said:
the lower the C of G the further over you have to lean the bike. so a low C of G is not the B all and end all.

but on initial turn in or threading through trees the high COG works against you which is why I want to know if the new bike is better than the old bike for initial turn in, if its better then its the higher crank helping lay the bike over by being WORSE at influencing the left right lean

I don't think a crank likes to do anything around the axial.

however, if it had a crank across the bike like a sopwith camel or a guzzi - well as long as you turn only one way the crank is amazing!
regards

Taffy

exept in whoops the fore aft rocking motion will cause the bike to yaw left/right .... nasty!

have you got a wood router? have a play :idea:
 
bushmechanic said:
have you got a wood router? have a play :idea:

no but I have a 4" grinderette!

dropping into corners is to do with many factors and offset is a major one. I would have thought weaving through medium speed cones was as good a test as any. really low speed turns require heavy front end grip and correct offset. this disappears over 5mph and when NOT turning on a sixpence.

regards

Taffy
 
bushmechanic said:
I want to know if the new bike is better than the old bike for initial turn in,

Come on Taffy answer the question. Or are you just sitting in the shed admiring in it ? :twisted:
 

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