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Engine dies after a few seconds

Joined Mar 2005
3K Posts | 3+
Mesa, AZ
My 01 Fe501e did not run since Sunday. Just changed the oil. New oil, 4 kicks, it starts.

Then it dies after 20 seconds... Hmm ok... rekick, restarts, dies after 20 seconds again.

Rekick, keep throttle open, it pops then dies, this time after 30 seconds.

No restart, now, unless I wait a bit.

Any idea what can cause this issue?

Will tow start tomorrow and adjust idle, should I make increase the idle speed?

Weather is cold these days, it was around 50F when I tried to start it. It would not start on the kick at all Sunday morning at 45F.
 
Did you drain the float bowl and bottom of the fuel tank to insure water had not collected?
 
Nic,

Sounds like a fuel delivery problem to me. I would do as Dale suggested and also check to make sure the float isn't stuck closed or partially closed and restricting gas to your float chamber. Maybe also worth your while to make sure you don't have a pinched gas line or closed petcock.

Do you have your sons bike ready for the ride next week???

Regards,
 
Hi Lefrog,
I recall you saying somewhere you do not use the choke when starting.When the weather cools it may be required.Also compounded if you changed to a heavier oil wt.
 
Hi Lefrog
I would start with the obvious.
Clean carb, check fuel lines, fuel cap breather, quality of spark etc.
Post your findings ...
I'm sure we can soon have it running again.

Regards
Ady
 
Well we did not ride through any water last time and I did not wash it either.

The fuel is less than 2 weeks old. I did tap on the carb in case the float was stuck...

I will tow start it and find out then.
 
LeFrog said:
Well we did not ride through any water last time and I did not wash it either.

The fuel is less than 2 weeks old. I did tap on the carb in case the float was stuck...

I will tow start it and find out then.

Drain the float bowl and a bit of fuel off the bottom of the tank.
Barometer swing leads to condensation. In addition fuel in the float bowl will lose it's light ends (important for starting cold) in less than 48 hours.

Frog, we talked about this before. :? LOL

Dale
 
Yeah I know but it started and ran for 30+ seconds with the throttle open...

Oh well, Dellorto fun :)
 
Nic, How is tow starting your bike gona change anything??? If you kick it and it starts, runs for 30sec, and dies will you not then just tow your bike until it starts, run for 30sec, and then die...??? :scratch:

Put the tow strap away and fix the problem of why it wont stay running once started, not a starting issue =;

Regards,
 
If I get it tow started on a quarter mile dragging the clutch it will run the bad gas through.

When Splat came to teach me how to adjust the valves, we went up and down my dirt road about 4 times until it stopped spluttering and popping and then when the bad gas had run through it ran really good.

I will drain most of the tank and fill the WR250F with it, it's good better ignition and carburetion and it can run on junk gas, then I will get good new gas for myself.
 
This last summer my bike sat unstarted with 3/4 tank of gas in it for 6 months. October came, pulled the bike out, cleared the cylinder with 8-10 kick-threws, gave it about three good kicks and shazam shazam!!!

Bike didn't run any differently than when I put in 115 octane race fuel, infact I have a harder time starting my bike with the higher octane stuff. I usually run 91-93 octane pump gas with a few shots of octane booster in it and no problems at all....

One other thing I shall :oops: admit, I never turn off the petcocks on my bike because one of them leaks when I mess with it. Every time I want to fix it I have more gas in it than I want to deal with so I put it off until "next time". Well next time hasn't come for over a year now and I don't notice any difference. Just mentioned this for...... well, really no reason.

Take care Nic!

regards,
 
I tried again, it started, but again died unless I kept the throttle open. I tried adjusting both the idle and the mixture, to no avail.

New gas and all.

I truly think the ignition is the issue...

I may not be able to make it at all for the ride this week. :(
 
Nic (hope you don't mind)
It still sounds like fuel starvation....
check gas tank cap is breathing
remove and check each gas line is running fast and smooth
ensure gause is clean (where both gas lines meet and enter the carb)
ensure all carb vents are not blocked (get another piece of pipe and blow in them)
clean carb with carb cleaner
Check out 'the doc' for hard starting guide.

Good luck
Ady
 
nick

i have not put a new plug cap on in four years and neither has anybody else here probably yet they recommend one every year. it's cheap to do and worth trying.

regards

Taffy
 
Take your plug out and smell of it, if it smells of gas--shut the gas tap off and kick through around 10 times--with the sparkplug out and switch off ---that is if the sparkplug smells of gas.
Check fuel lines, make sure gas runs as stated on Adys post. Also check tank vent line and carb vent hoses--make sure they are clear.
With new plug installed try starting using the choke---if still won`t --check and clean out carb and all openings and then try again--check wires,coil wire and plug cap. Think back might have overlooked something very simple.
Started my bike yesterday--temp. mid. 50s--with choke on and no throttle let warmup then turned choke off and rode. If turn choke off before warmed up engines dies and have to do over again.
Better reset the carb screw settings before you start or you will be chasing your tail.
Good luck
 
Nic,

I have to ask this, when you went for a ride last week to try out your 14T counter sprocket did you do anything to your bike after that? I mean anything what so ever? put air in the tires? replace your grips? O, wait a minute you did work on your bar risers didn't you?

I should have been more specific, have you placed your fingers on [jinxed] any part of your bike since you got it running last week!!!

Do you "monkey fidget" with your carb from time-to-time and adjust clickers on your forks and then go out riding and wonder why things are not running right.

In the last two months I have read 30+ (being conservative here because I don't want to go back and count them all) posts from you, whining about your bike not running!!!

If you feel like your electrical is bad than rip it off the bike, get your credit card or bank card out, and get the parts you need and replace them. I don't think you are going to sleep until you have replaced the rectifier/regulator, stator, all wiring, kill switch, CDI coil, spark plug, plug cap, fuses, battery (again w/ two of them), starter motor, sprag, flywheel, and that dumb little bolt that holds the seat on!!!

Get committed to this bike and get a new stator and replace it. If that does not fix it than no problem, you will need it in a year or so anyways.

Here is what grieves me about this, there is no easier bike to work on than the Berg.... none! It is so simple and minimized.... All parts that are not need to run this bike are sent to Japan and placed on Hondas, Kawi's, Zuki's, & Yami's.

I'll probably take heat for this one but for crying out loud Nic the ride is in four FRIGGIN days and you still havn't fixed this issue yet???

I am looking forward to meeting everyone and that includes you but I don't want to have a Motorcycle Mechanics Workshop at the parking lot of the first ride!!!

Come on man.... Think this out and sort it!

Time is ticking!!

Regards :wink:


(ps. All this flaming is just frustration... don't worry man, love ya :lol: )
 
LeFrog said:
Yeah I know but it started and ran for 30+ seconds with the throttle open...

Oh well, Dellorto fun :)

It started, did you use the choke? Did it start just kicking it or did you tow it?

How fast did you have to run the engine to keep it running? rpm?

Did you try to slow it down and still keep it running? rpm?

Did it start poping/backfiring when it started to stop when you were trying to get it to idle?

Did you have to keep flicking the throttle open to a high rpm to keep it runing?

Answers to these questions and Bills should reveal what the problem is.

You don't want to miss out on the RIDE!

Regards,

Joe
 
Keith: the bike has been running just fine for the last 2 months now, except for the rocker cover incident where I was not told to work on it at TDC on the compression stroke (sorry, I am not a mechanic, I am a computer guy) and Splat came to teach me how to adjust my valves.

I rode twice with the 14T in the front but it has nothing to do with the carburetion/engine dying issue. Rising my bar 3/4 of an inch does not have anything to do with this issue.

Yes, I work on my bike, because it is a used Husaberg. Most of what I have done has had positive results so far, like stopping oil leaks and improving handling. Think of me as Taffy a couple years ago.

Joe: no, I do not try with the choke. I could never get the bike to start with the choke on, for the life of me. I usually start the bike cold in 3 to 7 kicks but last week it had to be tow-started (I was actually cold myself -it was barely over 40F- and did not give the best kicks).

I do not have a tach in my brain like you more mechanically-inclined people, but I have it running at 1/3 of a turn and even then it ended up popping and dying eventually.

But (and I know you guys will comment negatively on this) I do not have an NGK Irididium plug in it. It is a Champion Copper because that's what I could find in my neighborhood.

Not planning on riding today anyway, so I will try an NGK plug instead and try with the choke this time.

I a not whining, I am asking for advice. Nothing wrong with asking for a lot of advices either, it's a good thing to do when you're learning something.

I actually learned quite a lot so far and I think I can fix this issue eventually with your good advices.
 
Nic,
English seems not to be working so I'll try some rudimentary LeFrog. Drainer le carburateur!

Nowhere in any of your responses did you acknowlege that you physically drained the carburetor. You MUST pull the plug( square thingy on the bottom of the carb) to get water out. It will not always come out simply by runnning the snot out of the bike down a dirt road. Water may not be the problem, but you should eliminate the possibility.

And answer Joes questions too. At what RPM does the engine die? Idle, Full throttle, when?

See ya in Phoenix. Hopefully.
 
DezDuster said:
Nic,
English seems not to be working so I'll try some rudimentary LeFrog. Drainer le carburateur!

Nowhere in any of your responses did you acknowlege that you physically drained the carburetor. You MUST pull the plug( square thingy on the bottom of the carb) to get water out. It will not always come out simply by runnning the snot out of the bike down a dirt road. Water may not be the problem, but you should eliminate the possibility.

And answer Joes questions too. At what RPM does the engine die? Idle, Full throttle, when?

See ya in Phoenix. Hopefully.

I already drained the carb, to no avail, and gas from the bottom as well. Also the fuel lines seem to be fine because when I opened the drain plug I had forgotten to shut down the gas pegs and quite a bit fell before I had the time to turn them off.

I guess a new plug and new gas can help. Letting whatever is in the chamber evaporate. I am confident I can get it to work, it's been working fine lately, besides stalling a bit but that's the rider's fault. Mostly.

I have to keep it at 1/3 of a turn to keep it running.
 

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