Early Berg Enduro to Supermoto Help

oh dang, didnt realize anybody was waiting that urgently...i got a used rotor for one that came in a few days ago from a super cool SMJ dude from oregon i think, ill pull the front wheel and see how it bolts up tonight or tomorrow hopefully, it looks very close with the "eyeball caliper" but we all know how that goes....

Ok, its pretty plose, this rotor is actually off of a 1998 yz400f and according to the metalgear site it is the same part number as the wr/yz426 so i took a chance, the bolt pattern works without modifing the rotor or drum in the pictures i have it bolted up finger tight, the center circle of the rotor is a millimeter or two too small so would need to file/machine a little off of the center of the rotor or the ridge where the rotor sits on the hub just below each bolt hole, it will be a little while before i do any more but this is what ill be using for sure, (except a big one of course) you can look at th pictures and decide for yourself....sorry for the cell phone pictures...

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In addition to that last post, i think the caliper should be easy to make a braket, i cant verify this till i get the real deal rotor and of course havent tested it yet but i think that there is a lot of meat on the fork, some may be able to be removed off the left inner fork leg caliper mounting locations safely and put a flat easily made braket, just drill holes, make a new one to go back to the small rotor or get some spacer the same thinkness of the flat braket? havent even measured anything here yet just a thought i had..when i get there ill post back but it will be a while, let me know if you find something easier or try this....


Wondering about the rear? here is where i am at...i have the wheel, i have a spare berg rim that i used the right side spacer out of and cut it down so that it just fits into the bearing untill it hits the center spacer on cush drive hub....the hub came missing the right side outermost spacer that is why i did this, the original one might work somehow. then from there what i am going to do and have the parts for, just havnt done it yet, is add an additional 2 washers for a total of 3.5mm on the right side ontop of my customized berg spacer, then remove the same 3.5mm of the from a combination of the brake caliper braket inner and outer surfaces and the left side aluminum factory spacer. then it should be properly centered when compared the the factory wheel. this should work for me but that part may very depending on what spacers you start with....the main thing is that the ktm cush hub does work like they say with little work, my wheel was from a 1991 ktm600 and any ktm dampened hub from 1992-at least 2000ish will work for you too....in the crappy cell phone pictures seen below...you can see it fit without the spacer modifications this is just the chopped berg spacer on the right and factory spacer on the left. after i do the washer mod to center the rim i can still swap back to dirt wheels by moving the same spacers from the right side of the wheel to the left side to keep the dirt hub centered back in its original location....yet to be proven of course but here are some pictures of the original first "drop in" fitting

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ill eventually repost all this in great detail but that means i have to be done first....
happy building:cheers:

Well I got my LC4 cush hub in (still waiting on the carrier and rubbers.

I slid it on the axle and put it in the swinger and I can see where the chain will be out of alignment.
Looks like I can mill some off the outer surface of the caliper carrier and correct this and still keep the rear rotor in line with the caliper. No biggie.

I have a friends DRZ400SM at my house and I'm sure I can make the front rotor work with a little massaging on the ID of the rotor. I might even pick up a 320mm DRZ rotor to use.

I'm debating on what front caliper I want to use. Since I'm making my own stand-off I have a lot of options. I'd like to use the stocker to make swapping easy, but I'm worried about that little guy fading on me.

I live 20 min from Deal's Gap, so I need to make it right.

BTW, I'm not threadjacking, or not intending to, I'm just doing the exact same thing and hoping we can share info.

Its good brother, we can help each other and other people, i do not consider this "my" post, its "our" post; and by "ours" i mean you, me, and anyone else doing this, and afterall there is more than one way to complete this task so go for it, and anybody else with ideas can chime in too, i am not totally there yet either so i may just scrap some of my ideas and do what you did if i like it more than my ideas. lol.... :cheers:

So I have pretty much everything sorted, just waiting for some parts to get in.

I had one question though. How wide of a rear rim/tire can you run on this bike?

I ordered a 4.25" rear rim to use a 150 tire and now I think I could possibly go 5" with a 160.

Anybody know?

I have a lot of pics to get together.

Cant wait to see pics! i have finally got my sprocket for the back and machining done to finally (hopefully finally) fiy my rear wheel, i am saving up for the complete overhaul for this winter currently just have a 2.5 inch rear wheel with cush hub which will still be the same hub when i get my new rim, i am hoping to respoke it to a 4.5 rear at least but now that your here and ahead i am following you...look forward to hearing how it all goes in great detail and i am sure i am not the only one :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:

Well, I still need to upload pics, but:

I went with an early KTM Duke hub for the front.

It's 17mm axle, and the KTM hub is easier to find disks for than early Bergs (yes you can modify a DRZSM rotor, I have one sitting here), and if you haven't already discovered, the original front Berg hub is a non-conventional spoke pattern. That makes it a PIA to get spokes made and rims to fit correctly. Not impossible, but you have to ship your hub to Buchanan's to have them custom cut spokes.
Instead, I just ordered a spoke kit (from KTM) for the duke hub and I'm lacing them to Warp 9 rims.
My local KTM shop also just happened to have a new Ferodo 320mm floating rotor that fits the Duke hub, and I got it for a song. He also had a relocator for a brembo caliper but it's the later wider bolt pattern for the fork leg, no biggie, I'm just gonna drill and tap a hole for the early mount pattern. Both the relocator and rotor have holes for mounting a Trailtech speedo sensor and magnet with retainer clip, respectively. It's like it was all mean't to be.

On the rear I used an SMC/any big bore KTM cush hub P/N 5841001034491, and picked up a sprocket carrier and rubbers of eBay. If you do use this hub note that there are 3 different sprocket carrier part numbers for this hub as the carrier bearings changed throughout the years and are dimensionally different. Depending on which sprocket carrier you use it may require a different width spacer between the sprocket carrier and the hub to keep the carrier properly seated when the wheel is tight.
Even though the P/N for the cush hub is the same for all years it usually ships with the later thin spacer, and you will need the order the earlier thick spacer. I used the earlier thicker spacer with a '95 sprocket carrier.
EliteKTM has an awesome parts fiche and I used that to determine which spacer I needed.
I also ordered a rear spoke kit for the SMC wheel (the earlier wheel that uses 4.25" rim) so I shouldn't have any problems lacing it up to a 4.25" Warp 9 rim.

I ended up milling ~1mm off the inside face of the rear caliper carrier where it mates to the hub. This gave me more clearance and lined the rotor up dead nuts in the caliper carrier. I milled about ~2mm off the outside of the caliper carrier and the hub dropped in. **BUT** I didn't need to do that. When I tightened down the wheel it seated the sprocket carrier in the hub more than I could do it by hand and when I loosened the axle the gap at the ouside of the brake carrier was about what I had milled off. No sweat, I just slipped a stainless washer in there to take up the slack.
Chain alignment is correct and the rear caliper is floating within range of the carrier and the brakes work. It was EASY.

I should have the front hub and spokes in the next few days so I can tackle the front brake setup and wheel spacing.
Then the rims should be in about a week after that so I can lace it all up.

I'll see if I can't get pics posted up today.

Here you go.

Found this at the local KTM shop. This is what happens if you don't want to run a cush drive.



Milling:



Fitted:

Rotor and relocator:



Rear spokes:

looks like you have done about what i did for the milling, i took 2mm off the caliper locator bracket on the swingarm side then 2mm off the rotor side oem ktm axle spacer (dont know what the p/n is of the spacer) and all fits perfectly and rim is centered in swingarm (+-0.20mm). also had to open up the inner surface were the rotor goes through the relocator by about .5mm this part was done carefully with a 4"cutoff wheel used like a grinder
i think i could get it a little bit more centered with a washer, i should have only taken off about 1mm from the spacer..

I am not sure what you mean by non-traditional spoked front wheel, is it the angle of the spokes that go into the rim? otherwise i guess i dont follow why it cant just be respoked to another rim, respoking wheels is definatly new to me... :? do you know of any issues i will run into trying to respoke my rear ktm cush hub onto a bigger rim.

with the rim centered perfectly in back there is a ton of room for a wide wheel i am curious though about the tire buldge and chain clearance factor.....

anyway great work! cant wait to see the whole completed project! :cheers:

As far as the hub issue, it's the angle and order that the spokes exit the hub. It's actually kinda backwards from standard hole patterns. From a glance they are the same, but they are not.
Like I said, it's not impossible to lace it up, you just need to send your hub to Buchanan's to have spokes made with the correct bend in them to go from a non-standard hub to a standard rim. I know of another guy on here (fredcp) who has done it.
All I did was kill two birds with one stone. I opened up my brake options with a common bolt pattern and corrected the spoke issue using a duke hub.

You may have an issue with the rear spokes fitting if you order Buchanan's WITHOUT sending them your hub. The issue is the cush side. If you look at the hub the flange on the cush side is larger diameter than the brake side flange, not symmetrical like most hubs. And the spoke bend will be different. When I talked to Angel at Buchanan's he told me it's best to send the hubs if I was going to have spokes cut due to the fact the flange is different. If not I may have "banana spokes", not good.
As above it's not an issue if you send them your hub, they can make the correct spokes.
So instead of messing with that I just ordered the spokes from KTM that I KNOW will fit the hub and the SMR rim. The cost was about the same per wheel (maybe even a little less.)
Just depends on how you wanna skin that cat.

Hey Bergini, I may have some questions for you regarding your rad fan/thermostat setup. I stumbled across your thread a while back. I dig that setup.

Well it turns out the relocator I have will not work, there isn't enough meat on it to drill and tap another hole where I need it.

BUT, Motomaster has a relocator that FITS OUR BIKES. I'm waiting to here back from them on it.
The Motomaster P/N: 211012

I also got the Duke front hub in, I'm just working out spacing. It should be pretty easy.

Rims ship out tomorrow, so there's a SLIGHT chance I can have this thing on it's own weight in supermoto trim by NEXT weekend.

Why can't I just order a new 18 front rim an pull my hub out of my bent off road wheel an just bolt it on I'm not a big time road racer so I think the stock brake will be fine for me but why can't I do the wheel swap an put street tires on my bike an be done?

It's been covered before that early Husaberg hubs have an unconventional spoke pattern, so you will have to have custom spokes made/rims drilled for the stock hub to work (Buchanan's.)
I know of a guy on here that has went that route with 17" rims and it worked out fine, he did however need to send his hubs to Buchanan's for sizing.
It's not impossible, and not all that cheap, but it's not as straight forward as you would imagine.

Also, I got a LOT done on my bike, wheels laced, tires on, etc. I'll get some pics up.

What size tires do u run ?

I was told today that a XR 650 wheel fits the berg it has a 17 mm axle an all u have to do is cut the spacers down to fit perfect this was done by rob at warp 9 wheels he was a wealth of Info on bergs way more than buchannens

My '98 FC600
On Talon hubs and Behr rims, no cushdrive been fine street riding for the last couple of years. Has 120/70/17 front and 150/60/17 on the rear but chain clearance is small. Tomorrow i am trying a 140/70/17 rear

That is an awsome looking bike :cheers: have you(or anybody) done anything with the front suspension, at least on my FE, it seems to dive and lift a lot when braking or accelerating?

I have replaced one set of fork seals on an 89 gixer 750 and that is all the bike suspension work i have ever done other than set sag and adjust clickers , currently running the factory clicker settings for the FE model.

What can i do easily to make the front stiffer, turn the compression adjuster up a few clicks? put in heavier weight oil? i have no idea, sag was a couple mm's low in the front if i remember right but very close.
it handles well but would be more pleasant at high speed if the front was a bit more rigid, any ideas?

keep in mind i havent tried doing anything to remedy it yet because bike shocks are probably my weak point