Definitive E-Start solution for 01-03's

Dale

There is a limited range of adjustment in the mounting of the stator, ie on its slotted holes. Should this be mounted up so as to ****** timing as much as possible?

I have a 03 Fe501e that been a great starter on the button. Recently it has struggled when cold as starter clutch wouldnt engaged, but still e-started stright away when hot. I have just replaced sprage clutch today so hopefull cold starts will soon be a 1-3 secod affair once again.

Cheers
Horto

Horto said:

Dale

There is a limited range of adjustment in the mounting of the stator, ie on its slotted holes. Should this be mounted up so as to ****** timing as much as possible?

I have a 03 Fe501e that been a great starter on the button. Recently it has struggled when cold as starter clutch wouldnt engaged, but still e-started stright away when hot. I have just replaced sprage clutch today so hopefull cold starts will soon be a 1-3 secod affair once again.

Cheers
Horto

Click to expand...

Hi Horto,
Since the SEM has a limited range of advance (ie cranking advance and running advance are one in the same) retarding the static timing often does little good and here lies the reason:

Retarding the static / idle timing forces one to raise the throttle stop to maintain proper idle speed. The timing is indeed ******** to promote easier starting, however, now you are ingesting a greater volume of air and fuel during cranking consequently loading the starter motor.

Sorry, their is no short cut. A solid SEM and a proper state of engine tune is your best bet.

Best Regards,
Dale

PS
The starter clutches fail for the same reason the battery drains and the engine cranks slow "overload via advanced timing and large throttle openings as the engine is attempting to run backward against the starter motor". please do keep in mind the slipper gear is simply a hardware safety and not a fix for an improper state of tune.

hey guys just wanted to chime in here ....
befire my bike broke 99 600 walked into the
garage turned on the gas fliped the choke
touched the e-start and it roared to life????
there was no cranking just one revolution
and it was running it has a sem ignition
so my question is as the bike ages the ignition
will get weaker??? I would like to beleve that
after I rebuild it it will start like it did before it
died

eman369 said:

hey guys just wanted to chime in here ....
befire my bike broke 99 600 walked into the
garage turned on the gas fliped the choke
touched the e-start and it roared to life????
there was no cranking just one revolution
and it was running it has a sem ignition
so my question is as the bike ages the ignition
will get weaker??? I would like to beleve that
after I rebuild it it will start like it did before it
died

Click to expand...

Hi Eman,
So many variables exist it is impossible to predict. However and as you pointed out "when all is correct the engine will indeed roar to life using "E" with an SEM". Unfortunately the problem is in the variables. Not often are the planets aligned and so it is with an SEM equipped Husaberg.

Best of luck to you and please keep us posted.

Sincerely,
Dale

So what we need is an ignition that ******* the timing at cranking speeds and as soon as RPM picks up a bit with engine firing, advances the timing to normal running specs. Just like Grandpa used to do manually on the model A. I assume the Jap ignitions do this automatically. For now all we can do with our SEM to reduce cranking load is fine tune the fuel screw for best idle, slow the idle down with the slide stop, tune fuel screw again etc. etc. til bike idles properly with lowest possible slide opening. Throttle response was best with a 45 pilot but I ended up going to a 40. The 40 was as rich as I could go in order to maintain a clean idle with the slide barely opened. Fuel screw is out 1 turn, K35 needle fully raised, 268 needle jet, 190 main. (03 FE501E, MX muffler, altitude 300 feet)
dan

Hi Dan,
You are correct!

Regarding the PHM 40:
I do have a modification that enhances the overall tune of said carburetor. I require the carburetor as via a flow bench I alter the pilot fuel and air jet stagger. In addition I outfit the unit to use off the shelf Keihin main jets.

The cost is $150.00 plus S/H/I.

You also need to use a K51 needle and DR-272 Needle Jet with said upgrade.

Kind Regards,
Dale

FYI:
The SEM is basically that of a Motoplat which was primarily used on two cycle engines during the seventies and eighties.

PVL USA offers a variety of ignition systems. Unfortunately most systems have a declining curve smore uitable for a two cycle engine. In addition PVL USA is owned by and operated from KTM USA in OHIO.

Dale

Original target was that of the 501, however, said modifications have been implemented on PHM 40 equipped Husaberg engine displacements ranging from 470 through 650 with positive field reports from the end user.

Dale

LINEAWEAVER said:

Hi Dan,
You are correct!

Regarding the PHM 40:
I do have a modification that enhances the overall tune of said carburetor. I require the carburetor as via a flow bench I alter the pilot fuel and air jet stagger. In addition I outfit the unit to use off the shelf Keihin main jets.

The cost is $150.00 plus S/H/I.

You also need to use a K51 needle and DR-272 Needle Jet with said upgrade.

Kind Regards,
Dale

Click to expand...

What should you expect from such a modification? Easier start? More power? Smoother delivery?

Here is the rest of my investigations: I have changed the battery, cleaned the connectors, added a big fat ground from the starter bracket to the battery.

Without the tank on and a bit of gas left in the carb and in the hoses, the starter actually managed to make the engine turn to the point that I could almost hear it start ...? :?

Actually the starter now sounds a lot stronger and ready to crank the engine once warm of course.

Now when I got the bike, nor Shaggy (aka 2-lungs, Neal by his real name) nor I nor Kenny could start it. None of us had the technic. Then Kenny had the idea to try the estart anyway and the bike started... :shock:

Once I got home I could start the bike the same exact fashion: prime it with the deco on, try to kick start it, then give up, try the button and it would start... This I could do a couple times until the battery ran out of power, and I could not rejuice it.

My question is: should I expect such easy starts again with the new battery and grounded starter?

Second question is: if the battery does not get charged up by the bike running, what could be the reason? I have not tested not checked the connections under the tank, just made sure they were all tight.

Bob: did you change the starter sprague and starter idler?

Thanks for your help!

Sounds like you need a bit of carb tuning. If the E start is working great you can play around with the throttle opening and keep cranking away so eventually it fires. With the kick starter you get only one pop and the carb needs to be spot on. To test charging system, charge the battery up, crank it for a second to rid the surface charge, get it started with the kickstarter so you don't drain the battery, rev it to about 4k and voltage should creep up to 14V or so if all is well.
dan

Mine is an 01 but if Bob did some upgrades as I think I remember he did, then it would explain why the bike managed to start on the starter like that when it should not.

If it can be started like that after only being primed, then I wonder if an updated starter from a recent bike couldn't do the trick on its own...

nick

i think you should spend some of your vast wealth on a trip to a berg dealer who knows what he's doing!

i used to pour a thimble of fuel into the bottom of the carb boot, the fuel vapour alone used to help. i had one advantage and that is that i kept trying new carb settings and trying things. eventually the dell orto was a better starter.

why don't you fit the keihin? the bike will start better i can assure you. all the settings are in the 'owners doc'.

regards

Taffy

The Keihin I got would not fit. It's from a quad and it would not fit this bike. Also a 41 mm would be better. I am reselling the carb on eBay and so far am breaking even. Still 24 hours to make a profit.

Why would I bring the bike to a shop to do basic things I need to learn to do myself? Basic electrical maintenance and carb adjustements are something a dirt bike owner ought to do himself, same with valve adjustement.

When I need the engine split open, I usually have someone do it.

This starting issue is something I need to learn to address by myself.

Now, if you want to tinker on my bikes, come over any time. Kenny will get you beef jerky. :roll:

selling it?

that's a shame. of course the phuqing thing fits! what do you think you've got-the only leccy start bike in the usa? read the owners doc and you'll see that your myopic stare missed out the good bits.

regards

taffy

Taffy said:

selling it?

that's a shame. of course the phuqing thing fits! what do you think you've got-the only leccy start bike in the usa? read the owners doc and you'll see that your myopic stare missed out the good bits.

regards

taffy

Click to expand...

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

Damn taffy I wish i had met you at the moab ride. What the world need is more people telling it like it is....

that's funny-all the guys at moab said they wished they'd missed me because life would have gone on aswas.... forever 'n ever



i didn't get to the bottom without digging risky...

regards

Taffy

Taffy said:

selling it?

that's a shame. of course the phuqing thing fits! what do you think you've got-the only leccy start bike in the usa? read the owners doc and you'll see that your myopic stare missed out the good bits.

regards

taffy

Click to expand...

I already made a profit, Taffy. I'll get a 41mm when I find one.