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Crawling first gear even when clutch is engaged? Any ideas?

Joined Apr 2004
850 Posts | 1+
Murray Sunset, Australia
I have an 05 650FE with 5000kms on it .
Today while riding i noticed that all of a sudden when i am in fisrt gear with the clutch in the bike still wants to move?
Can anyone tell me how i may be able to fix this problem.
It also seems a little stiff when changeing down gears and requireing a little more effort than normal...
Maybe my clutch isnt engagning properly even when changing down?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
RE: Crawling first gear even when clutch is engaged? Any id

I have had the same thing for a whle so look forward to comments. And recently I got a ratcheting type sound on a fast clutch engage on take off- asked the dealer about it and he said that is normal - hope he is right and that he understood what I meant.
 
RE: Crawling first gear even when clutch is engaged? Any id

grooved tangs on the clutch basket not allowing the plates to disengage?

bit young for that though i would have thought.
 
RE: Crawling first gear even when clutch is engaged? Any id

Check clutch fluid. Every now and then, for no reason that I can explain mine is low on fluid. So I add fluid and bleed system then it is good for undetermined amount of time again.
 
Re: Crawling first gear even when clutch is engaged? Any id

faktor said:
I have an 05 650FE with 5000kms on it .
Today while riding i noticed that all of a sudden when i am in fisrt gear with the clutch in the bike still wants to move?
Can anyone tell me how i may be able to fix this problem.
It also seems a little stiff when changeing down gears and requireing a little more effort than normal...
Maybe my clutch isnt engagning properly even when changing down?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Take off the res. cover on the clutch master cylinder and check the fluid level. It sounds like it could be as simple as air in the hydraulic system. Do you see any visible signs of leaks? If it is leaking around the master cylinder, it will be obvious. If it is leaking at the slave cylinder, it is internal and you can't see it, but you will know because the fluid level will drop rapidly.

The Magura hydraulic system should be back-bled from the slave cylinder. Magura sells a oversized syringe to push the fluid up, but a big horse or cattle syringe like they sell at a farm supply store works just as well, for just a few dollars. Attatch a piece of clear hose to the bleed nipple and the other end to the syringe. Make sure you don't introduce any more air into the system when you push the fluid up and through the line. It is a simple procedure, and takes just a couple of minutes.

Also, there is no need to use the Magura fluid either. Any type of ATF or even fork oil works very well in a Magura clutch. Just don't use brake fluid.

Try replacing the fluid and bleeding the system. I bet this fixes your problem. In the event that the master cylinder is leaking or not working properly, Magura sells a rebuild kit that is easy to install as well.
 
I think you should probably inspect the clutch drive and driven plates for hot spots or warping. Also inspect the clutch drum for notching. Any plates that are warped, hot spotted or under spec should be replaced. Usually any notches in the drum can be filed flush. The inspection procedure on the late model Bergs is relatively simple and should take less than an hour. The cover gasket is reusable so that should not be a concern. When you reassemble the discs after inspection or replacement make sure to dip them in fresh oil so they are fully lubricated. This may help with the ratcheting noise as well. Note: You can consider that noise normal. Some have reported leaving the bike on its side over night with the clutch lever zip tied in help with the noise. Make sure the bike is layed clutch cover side down. This will allow oil to fully saturate the plates. I have never tried this procedure, but it seems to make sense.
As far as the Magura clutch goes, I would only recommend Magura clutch fluid or a high quality mineral oil
Simple stuff here.....hope it helps.
 
Hi Berger,
Just curious why you say only Magura fluid. Many, many clutches are running with either ATF or fork oil. Specialty shops such as Enduro Engineering, who sponsors Mike Lafferty, recommend it. In six years of empirical testing with Magura clutches, I have never had any issues using ATF. If something works just as well, is more readily available, and is less expensive, where is the drawback?

I am sorry to take this post off topic, but am curious to see if you have had issues or have even tried ATF or fork oil. If you did have issues, they'd be the first I have ever heard about.
Thanks
 
Being from the automotive industry, I just find that running what the manufacture recommends usually seems to work the best. ATF has to be a cheaper alternative, I would think they would run that if it was truely good for the system.
I'm not saying the other alternatives wont work. I figure why not run what they recommend in order to remove any doubt.
 
I just wanted to point out the service manual makes several clear statements that Husaberg uses biodegradeable oil for it's clutch system and suggests it is incompatible with mineral oils.

Cheers

Mark
 
I had a similar problem, the cause turned out to be the O ring on the clutch slave cylinder piston. Easy to fix. I ordered the part, but found that the local hardware store had an exact repacement for about 25 cents. It's still in there to my knowledge.
 
chilledspode said:
I just wanted to point out the service manual makes several clear statements that Husaberg uses biodegradeable oil for it's clutch system and suggests it is incompatible with mineral oils.

Cheers

Mark

See there....all the more reason to use the manufactures suggested fluid :wink: rather then listen to someone who thinks they know what will work (speaking for myself of course).
 
chilledspode said:
I just wanted to point out the service manual makes several clear statements that Husaberg uses biodegradeable oil for it's clutch system and suggests it is incompatible with mineral oils.

Cheers

Mark

"Use Mineral Oil" is meant to mean "don't use brake fluid". Fork oil and ATF are both mineral oils, it's a matter of semantics.

Run what you want to run, I thought this was an information board to pass on good tips and ideas. I wouldn't have posted what I did if it was harmful to do or did not work. After six years of ATF in my KTM (identical system), wouldn't a problem have developed if it was incompatible?

Why in the world would a hydraulic system care if an oil was biodegradable? How would it know? If it is incompatible with mineral oil why is it stamped into the res. cap to USE MINERAL OIL ONLY?
 
The only incompatability non-biodegradable mineral oil has is with the greenie weenies who have such a tight hold on the politics over there, (and here for that matter) ... Biodegradable sheeezzz! cry me a mineral oil polluted river...
 
Thanks for the information guys.

Is this why my downshifting when engine is running is a little stiffer etc etc as well (cause of the clutch. When engine is running shifting up is fine however when shifting down it almost feels like it wont change any further than 3rd until the right rpm is reached then it will change to 2nd and first.
 
I checked the hydraulic clutch reservoir and there were no air bubbles :(
 
We have seen this problem.it was cured by checking the steel clutch plates for warpage.It only takes one steel plate that is not perfect to cause this clutch drag problem you describe.The plates are thin and inexpensive so check them for a high blue spot..
 

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