Confirmation of 570 'seat off' trick.

Had a go in the dyno today, wanted to see if there was anything to have with the seat off. I had cut the cooler wings open as much as possible and thought that was enough, but noooo
I did a series of pulls to have the power stabilse and then ripped the seat off while decelling and then did another pull, and it was a great deal better this way. It starts picking up already at 6k and then in an even fashion increases to 7,5-8k where its ~2,7hp better, so this means more power AND lower revs, which is dandy. Fuel requirement followed the gain spot on. Ill modify the seat for sure.
Hat off for the one sharing this in the first place!

(Didnt get the graph with me today, will post it tomorrow.)

Well, I took a race ready bike and put it on the dyno and the effing lambda bung flew out the second pull on no seat, bugger, or rather panic as Im to practice this weekend, sorted through a welding buddy now, pjew! It could have gone loose on race, so I like to think of its a good thing it came loose now.

A few bits needed to come off to get the mid pipe out, could have been much worse yes, but I searched this forum for help and tatta, there it was.
Tank, rear shock, airboot(mostly because its irritating) and right upper engine mount and it came out. Rear frame and TB still in place.

Whats very clear is how the bike moves when dynoed, more power and rear gets up, and you can feel it fall off.
The first iteration I could feel it fall off, riding it seat off was clear it pulled much better.
More fun and a more wisely proposed curve.

Bull, sorry to hear.
Toss it off in the fly like I did, is that a pain? nope
Go down and pull the seat off the bugger and jump back up on, I did it in eight seconds, including normal decel, without eddy brake.
Less actually and popped the new file, bam, a lot better.

Your service point sucks.

Yep, for trails its no good agreed.
I bet for a reason when I bought the bike I got two seats, so I can have one for ice and one for...not ice

2 some hp doesnt seem like much but with the graph at hand you see what Im mumbling about, the range it affects is interesting to say the least. Reving it to the limiter felt too high I thought and with this mod I find the same power at a lot lower revs, and then some, perfect in my tiny little bubble i like to think of as world
(tuned engine incase someone reads this out of context)

Today I gutted the seat.
Bike is still in the dyno so its just a matter of putting things back and have another go, Ill see if no seat is the same result as opened up seat, that I dont know just yet

Just dont bet on that the oem lambda probe mount is very stable, it cracked, glad it did that now and not while on a distant track meet.
OEM point will be patched, bye bye.
Good bit of fun digging that mid pipe out, dont worry its sorted now. Friday it will be back to try the hacked seat versus no seat.

Seat hole works just aswell as seat off, tried it today.

Yes, once you are in the AFR sweetspot the seat off isnt enough to throw it off line. Without a longer duration cam it will be difficult to hit 65 if oem is 52.
With a cam I think 66-67 is possble, 70 seems far fetched.
Already at current state its 20% better than oem plus the range is way wider, now oem is made to do well in the trails, anyhow it will be quite hard to reach 70, upper 60s is plausible though, SAE corrected.

Had a go repairing the exhaust today, done, and then did a few more pulls and it popped another hole, tear down AGAIN and weld AGAIN its finally together now though, ready for riding, exhausted but happy. Waiting for track info, its rather difficult to tell as it has been snowing a lot here, but seriosly cold, usually means a track will be open this weekend, Ill try and get a gopro on.
Sunday one of the big tracks is open and I can try my ride to the quickest in the series, should be interesting to see where it stands. Possibly heats as Im one of the best with starts, let you know.

Needs TIG imo, I said this morning life is too good, and Im expecting a comet in my head by saying that, and It soon was to be true, but my will to ride was stronger so I won the battle, stupidly stubborn personality

Hp number isnt too interesting, too many things will affect the number, it may just aswell be shoestrings or camels
The shape of the output is interesting though, and I wouldnt mind having the engine keep the tq higher up, as its now you can feel it fall off, heaps better than stock though, but that is the final thing Id like to adjust before Id call it complete. I like the quiet oem exhaust and just the throaty roar of the intake, not sure if Im missing out there, dont think it will be much.

High compression does not make anything worse unless you do crazy figures, the efficiency comes up with higher combustion temperature. I did take out material from the chamber so static compression is around 13:1, which isnt too drastic, and the actual pressure running the engine is much determined by when the intake valve closes and with the oem cam at 115 centerline its not very early, so no worries about reliability or using pump gas ime.

A welded bung is preferred, you could read it by sticking a copper pipe into the outlet and suck the fumes out too, but a lot messier and possible contamination with fresh air scewing your readings, plus readings will be severly delayed.

For now I will just ride it, too much wrenching with no riding and you get nuts
Looking good for tomorrow, forecast says -3 and sunny, fingers and toes crossed!