Confirmation of 570 'seat off' trick.

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It does, it follows the the gain in power to fuel percentage.
This could/may mean if youre at the rich part of the fuel sweetspot its still ok.
In any case its very little that needs attending to.

I usually tune engines to be at the richest possible mode while no loss, lets say you are here, just open it up and dont think again, if that helps.
 
Hey great belgy!
What I do is to get an even afr level and then I push it up and down to find best power, its not always where its supposed to be, my pony here likes leaner than what Im used to. What it likes it gets :)
As you may have guessed I have my own dyno, makes it a lot more direct, Ill try and help as much as I can for any users trying to sort their bikes fueling, just ask. Not selling anything its just for fun.
More info later this spring/summer when my 570 riding buddy comes here and we dyno that OEM bike, this will shed some useful info.
 
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Bazzaz map for oem exhaust, ported head and CP piston.
Makes for a flat 13:1 AFR.
Bazzaz.jpg


And current result in a Dynojet 250 dyno SAE corrected, the wide range is what i like the most, quite handy in the shorter straights.
With metric hp and STD correction its 65,6 hp, you need to look carefully how graphs are diplayed, I prefer emperial hp and SAE correction factor, after all its just your percent gained that makes the bike faster.

Husaberg570TT_20150130.jpg
 
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It would be percent, it responds that way but I dont really know :)

And a pic of the seat, dont worry I wont quit my day job for this, just yet :eek:
Some kind of mesh on there would be purdy.

Seat%20trick.jpg
 
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Ain't nothing wrong with a sleeper! I like the silver/blue wheel combo. Brutal and functional. Still such an elegant bike design. That's an 09?

What sort of studs are they? Pre-studded tires or put in afterwards? And what tires are they? - And would you say the studs are exclusively responsible for grip in your purpose, or is it affected by the tire compound as well?

I've been commuting / trailriding on my DR-Z during the past couple of winters, had car studs put in Trelleborg Army Special a.k.a. Mitas XT-644. Works amazingly well. Goes just about everywhere, although in more of a "can get you across the occasional ice" fashion rather than any racing being possible. The car studs even stay in and stay unmangled over long pavement rides!
 
I see you've also got a steering damper ... would make sense for the 70-degs ... at least I'd like to try one, see how it feels. I'd imagine that it allows the sag / geometry to be set up more towards the agile side, with the damper then holding the uncontrolled movements back a bit but still allowing for controlled agility .. ? As these bikes are easily tipped towards the flightier side of agility ...
 
I find my 570 to be very stable compared to 650 motard I had before...
With stock wheels I ran the forks on steepest angle int the t clamps bike felt realy stable..
But since I switched to alpina carbon rims wich are loads lighter than stock the bike wase getting shakey now and then on bad roads without steering damper so I changed the setting of the forks in the triple clamp...
I would prefer going back the way it was but in that case a steering damper would be necessary meaning more money:p
Now it is also super stable with the light carb wheels and still handles great but I think on track I would benefit more with steeper head angle/steering damper.
Turns in okay but mid corner on longer turns I sometimes get chatter in the front....
 
tourist said:
Ain't nothing wrong with a sleeper! I like the silver/blue wheel combo. Brutal and functional. Still such an elegant bike design. That's an 09?

What sort of studs are they? Pre-studded tires or put in afterwards? And what tires are they? - And would you say the studs are exclusively responsible for grip in your purpose, or is it affected by the tire compound as well?

I've been commuting / trailriding on my DR-Z during the past couple of winters, had car studs put in Trelleborg Army Special a.k.a. Mitas XT-644. Works amazingly well. Goes just about everywhere, although in more of a "can get you across the occasional ice" fashion rather than any racing being possible. The car studs even stay in and stay unmangled over long pavement rides!
Click to expand...

Good eyes there, its a 2009 yes.
Its a tire called Duro, its a really cheap one from Czechoslovakia, but its the best core for this application, funny enough. They come unstudded and then some kind soul bores them and puts all the studs in.
Its a racing standard for finland and sweden(at least), so its got its own blueprint and all. These are for ice only and will be bent on any hard surface.

There is another racing class that uses conventional tyres and enduro studs, they are not far behind if you get the 'right' guy to stud them for you.
 
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tourist said:
I see you've also got a steering damper ... would make sense for the 70-degs ... at least I'd like to try one, see how it feels. I'd imagine that it allows the sag / geometry to be set up more towards the agile side, with the damper then holding the uncontrolled movements back a bit but still allowing for controlled agility .. ? As these bikes are easily tipped towards the flightier side of agility ...
Click to expand...

Promise not to laugh now, mmkay?!
Its not active, it was on when I bought the bike and I havent bothered getting the pin that is needed. For ice the bike is extremely stable and my preferred setup is not aggressive as I slide it in and shoot. If anyone is keen for it I can get the pin and sell it, Ive got good connections at Öhlins, just been lazy :)
 
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Ha ha!

- I laugh with, not at. Most of my life doesn't have the pin in it, nor studs for all this ice.

I have great contacts at an Öhlins disposal facility, send the goods to me and you won't have to worry about them ever again!
 
You laughed, sorry its a no go then!

Things got very diFfacult now, part of why I didnt touch it is I need a few oem parts to replace it, but that could be part of a deal yes, Im reluctant to touch working things but I can quite easily be persuaded to throw my female intuition in the bin.

"Most of my life doesn't have the pin in it" quote of the year!
 
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TomTom said:
Hey great belgy!
What I do is to get an even afr level and then I push it up and down to find best power, its not always where its supposed to be, my pony here likes leaner than what Im used to. What it likes it gets :)
As you may have guessed I have my own dyno, makes it a lot more direct, Ill try and help as much as I can for any users trying to sort their bikes fueling, just ask. Not selling anything its just for fun.
More info later this spring/summer when my 570 riding buddy comes here and we dyno that OEM bike, this will shed some useful info.
Click to expand...

Your own dyno.... I wouldn't mind to visit you with my two 570s. One "stock", ie Ljunggrens comp map in it and the other you know about from the messages. You don't happen to have a flow bench for the head to, do you....? Then we can fix my head up and see what's possible or not ;) I bet you live in Kiruna or somewhere far away :furious:

And I have a set of oem parts if you want to go 1:1 with that gold :p
 
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jon andersson said:
Your own dyno.... I wouldn't mind to visit you with my two 570s. One "stock", ie Ljunggrens comp map in it and the other you know about from the messages. You don't happen to have a flow bench for the head to, do you....? Then we can fix my head up and see what's possible or not ;) I bet you live in Kiruna or somewhere far away :furious:

And I have a set of oem parts if you want to go 1:1 with that gold :p
Click to expand...

No, its in Arboga 'västra mälarn' :) Cant change language like that, haha!
I dont have a flow bench, I just measure the ports and use vanniks sim program and pipemax and adjust accordingly, to me flow bench is not so good argument.
Trading a UST mappable ecu will be much more interesting than money.

What I did for my own head was calculate the mods and be on the shy side, so I may have a bit high gas speed in there, it can do better on top end imo. If you like we can try on your bike, I ported mine.

There arent too many companies in this town, youll figure it out, PM for phone#.
 
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My plan is to take my motard/ice racer to a very good tuner on Åland. He's got everything. I gave this winter up due to bad weather, alot of work and total distrust in the bikes map. So I will tear down the engine to check the internal status and build it up as I like it, maybe even take it to the legend Gert if he agree on learning me a thing or two, and at the same time use that tuner for the head. But if you later would like to compare settings, parts and bikes on the dyno I can meet up with you (WHEN everything is back the way I like..).
 
There are as many opinions on this as there are ********.
I used to turn my heads over to others and along the way I realised, wait, I can do this my self, gas speed is the most important part, easy to figure out, I dont care much for flow as it doesnt reflect real conditions, all what I say is just in my head, not saying how to do it, you MAY choose this way, its all.
I tried my bike to the current champion last sunday with a 580'd 560 smr and its exactly the same, with that I got to be very happy, you can do the same. Id be happy to share the bits I did.
 
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