Buyers advice Newbie
- Thread starter Oak framer
- Start date
Joined Nov 2012
2K Posts | 821+
Iceland
No run, no odo is really pretty shaky for an '07. It's arguably a collection of parts in an unknown state. What are those parts worth?
Can't really comment on price as I'm in a small and strange market, only give my point of view, but here I'd pay 750-1000-1500-2000 GBP for a worn but strong runner depending on year and state - take these numbers with a grain of salt!! - a friend got a really strong '05 450 for 600 GBP - I'd be hesitant to pay 500GBP for that bike. Knowing what I know now.
If I speak really super honestly.
Can't really comment on price as I'm in a small and strange market, only give my point of view, but here I'd pay 750-1000-1500-2000 GBP for a worn but strong runner depending on year and state - take these numbers with a grain of salt!! - a friend got a really strong '05 450 for 600 GBP - I'd be hesitant to pay 500GBP for that bike. Knowing what I know now.
If I speak really super honestly.
Joined Aug 2008
756 Posts | 156+
England, Southampton
Joined Aug 2008
756 Posts | 156+
England, Southampton
Just had a quick look at my 08, 3445 miles and 167 hours. A low average due to lots of laning and a hare and hounds and few road miles.
The only engine work was a new camchain and dual valve springs put in when I first got it as well as a Rekluse clutch.
Good luck with your potential purchase.
The only engine work was a new camchain and dual valve springs put in when I first got it as well as a Rekluse clutch.
Good luck with your potential purchase.
Well I got the bike running after a thorough carb clean it was very gummed up and absolutely no fuel getting through to float chamber because of blockages. I replaced jets and needle (with a jetting kit I bought ) also new air filter and plug. It started first kick which surprised me a little....taking it for a test ride the bike pulls very well but .. I found that the engine stalls for example when slowing down to a stand still and then opening up the throttle .....its then very hard to kick up again afterwards...im trying to establish if the carb set up is too lean or to rich ...?
Is there still a manual on here for the 2007 FE 450....saw it the other day but can't see it now..??
Thanks
Thanks
Joined Nov 2012
2K Posts | 821+
Iceland
It's not in here? Service Manuals - Husaberg Forum
try this: https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B_X2MDkeGC0hNDRubmdrOEV2Rms&usp=sharing
try this: https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B_X2MDkeGC0hNDRubmdrOEV2Rms&usp=sharing
Thanks Tourist..thats great I am also trying to find info on setting valve clearances ..?
Good information thank you for the links ....
Good information thank you for the links ....
Last edited:
Joined Aug 2008
756 Posts | 156+
England, Southampton
If the engine is hard to re start when hot it normally means it is running rich.........normally.
As for the valve clearances I've always gone for the 1/6 of a turn method. It will be in the owners docs, I can't put the link on here as I'm on my tablet.
Glad to hear you got it running.
As for the valve clearances I've always gone for the 1/6 of a turn method. It will be in the owners docs, I can't put the link on here as I'm on my tablet.
Glad to hear you got it running.
Joined Nov 2001
17K Posts | 774+
Ely, England
Joined Aug 2008
756 Posts | 156+
England, Southampton
Here you go, this is the easiest way to set the valve clearances. Taken from the owners docs. Main Page - Owner's Doc
Carl.
Adjusting tappets
If racing adjust every 2nd ride. Take the rocker caps off and remove the plug, next, put the bike into second/third gear and then turn it over via rolling it along the workshop. When both sets of tappets are closed (wait for the inlets to close-now stop!): use a rod through the plug hole to try and make sure that the piston is as near to TDC as you can get. Slip back into neutral and put back on the stand. The alternative way is to keep the bike on the stand and remove the ignition cover then turn the engine with a 17mm spanner and again stop the piston at TDC. Undo both tappets together and loosen, then adjust gently you should feel the screwdriver tighten "lightly" with your finger tips and from here back-off 1/8th-of-a-turn (or try joeUSA's tool) and hold tight whilst tightening the lock nut. Check it again and if the 1/8th-turn is less: actually turn the screwdriver back against the nut slightly as you're locking.
Carl.
Adjusting tappets
If racing adjust every 2nd ride. Take the rocker caps off and remove the plug, next, put the bike into second/third gear and then turn it over via rolling it along the workshop. When both sets of tappets are closed (wait for the inlets to close-now stop!): use a rod through the plug hole to try and make sure that the piston is as near to TDC as you can get. Slip back into neutral and put back on the stand. The alternative way is to keep the bike on the stand and remove the ignition cover then turn the engine with a 17mm spanner and again stop the piston at TDC. Undo both tappets together and loosen, then adjust gently you should feel the screwdriver tighten "lightly" with your finger tips and from here back-off 1/8th-of-a-turn (or try joeUSA's tool) and hold tight whilst tightening the lock nut. Check it again and if the 1/8th-turn is less: actually turn the screwdriver back against the nut slightly as you're locking.
Hi Taffy jetting as follows :
168 main jet largest one supplied
Clip in 9th position on needle (in the bottom lowest groove)
Fuel mixture screw ( at front of carb ) 3 turns out
168 main jet largest one supplied
Clip in 9th position on needle (in the bottom lowest groove)
Fuel mixture screw ( at front of carb ) 3 turns out
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