Any news on 570 cams?

Looking for durations and lift on the thumper racing one, or any actor really, taff UK you got any?
I looked around about six months ago and even called thumper racing but they were reluctant to give out anything other than it will be 'what you like'.

I spoke with Jens who designed the engine and as theyre no longer in business we had a good hour on the phone and I got the OEM cam specs, theyre not too bad at 243/241 113/110 10.5/9, they wont do well at 8k plus though. With no real option I tried OEM and indeed they werent too bad, but we can do better I think.

I was into getting a thumper racing regrind, but I got really funky numbers from the tech I spoke with at around 300 degrees, now maybe that was advertised duration, he wouldnt say, too secretive for me feeling good about it, pass.
I dont need to know the profile just the points it lifts 1mm and closes 1mm, or 0.25" will be fine too. Any of you guys got to measure that yet?

If theres an american speaking person that can find out Id appreciate it, Im fluent english spoken but its my second language so I likely have the chef accent Will send meatballs in return!

TIA, Tom

Excellent, Ive bought cams from web cams before, quite happy with them, and they do deliver opening closing numbers and lift along with intended timing numbers.

berglsmerg said:

Good luck trying to get cam specs outta someone that does regrinds for a living.

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Thanks for input, but Im a picky bastard and I wont settle with 'its a good cam'
The profile is the secret.
Timing and lift numbers is a must to decide upon which cam you need for a specific build, and whats usually supplied, TR didnt and I didnt buy one, simple as that

The profile is the lift for every degree. The timing numbers does two things, first to understand what the cam does, intake closing point, overlap etc to judge if it fits the overall engine design, and then when you chosen your cam, to dial the cam to your preferred spec.

Ideally you like all measurements, but as you said most cam designers wont let you have the profile, but at the very least you need the timing numbers.
If you feel you have too much spare time you can plot the profile with a gauge and a degreewheel, so it can never be a secret really.
A setup like this and then plot every five/ten degrees into a spreadsheet and then polate the numbers will give you a pretty profile.

Thanks Tourist. I read that a year ago, but it made much more sense now after I measured and ported the heads.
Interesting with the head flow numbers, to me the numbers says the port is the limiting factor from 8mm lift and up, and thats one of the reasons taking the port area up works here and thats what Jens at husaberg said too, "our goal was never to get top hp so youll need to enlarge the intake ports". I never flowed the head but I measured port area and in stock shape the port will have way too high air speed already at 7k, so I would disagree with the comment 'enormous ports', but again hes just a student, so Ill give him that.

The cam data seems like he got the same numbers I was given by husaberg, saying its a rather short cam with little overlap.

Id like to have a cam that closes around 50 ATDC with 13:1 of static compression along with 40 degrees overlap and a tad more lift, basically whatever the longer duration allows as Im a tight arse and like to use stock parts (valve springs here) as far as possible
Its not a whole lot in changing cam, ime around 4-5 hp from 7.5k and up on an engine like the 570, but its there if you are chasing ponies.

@bergsmergl, klacking noice you say, does TR say anything about valve springs when using this cam?
A Honda CRF 450 I used to have made this sound too using a hot cam, no issues though, just curious trying to learn what the TR cam is.

Just called web cams and indeed you can have your cam made to your specifications. However they dont have a 570 head at hand so youll need to measure your cam without followers and from that express what changes you like to have done to it. So my whish for the cam above can actually happen if I just wait for my two brain cells to collide again, waiting game is here

berglsmerg said:

Thanks for the explanation, profiling the cam then gives lobe centreline and separation angle ? I have read that intake valve closing is the most critical valve event.

I have a degree wheel and indicator, (not as fancy as your set) I was all set to measure my new cam but got too keen to ride it. Next valve check I'll make it happen, I keep saying I'll do I'll do it, never happens. Like mowing the lawn, or replacing the front tube that has a slow leak

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You also get acceleration of moving components, which determines valve springs etc.

No need to use fancy stuff so youre good, I like KISS, 'Keep It Simple Stupid', however I sometimes make tools that happen to look fancy if I do things repeatedly. I know that feeling very well, sometimes you need a torche up #2 to get going This time I tagged along with my riding buddies and lent a bike and realized this, without the pain.

HusaBELGfs570 said:

Interesting stuff do'nt know what your talking about but I would like to see the result of these cam's on the dyno before/after without any other mods before I consider getting one
Mine is now slightly more rev happy than stock (worked head) but stil it doens't seem to like 9000rpm feels like something could improve on top but still 63 hp on the rear wheel with stock piston/tb/cam is reasonable

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Good numbers.
Not sure what that might be? got a graph to share? Dimensions of the ports and throats?

Busy here, called TR and they will give me the numbers needed to decide on their cam they say, theyll get a truckload of hursky durskidoo meatballs if so

HusaBELGfs570 said:

I send my head to this guy....
FP-Engineering GmbH Fahrzeugtechnik - Home
I think one or maybe the best guy to go to for tuning husaberg lots of experience
This is graphic before only fmf pipe/akra mapping and cut rad schrouds
After added fmf header (megabomb) dna air filter and custom map from fp engineering + the ported head.
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The black markered line is after blue before between 6500-7500 performance is about the same above that way better below a little less...
Also this was with the stock rings/piston 160 hours on the bike

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Funny you should say that, darn the cylinders had no scuffing and the underside of the piston looked brand new after 150 hours, never seen that on an 'mx engine' until now. Its a design that never got a price for what it is!
I declared my intentions for jens at husaberg and he said you can do whatever you want to it, it wont break. It will be two kilograms heavier but it will last like nothing else. Im ready to take his word.

I admit my take may include a bit of chance, but it pulls to the 9500 line, I may have been at luck yes, however I did the math before grinding it, and its based on other mark heads that works similar that I have tried out well, one is too few to make reliable statistics, I agree.
Luck counts too when billing for result, just need to find a way to bill myself...should have done that a long time ago
I went with stock everything but piston and porting, still stock exhaust, sounds like a shy schoolgirl at idle, with a bite.