Adding Powerlet Socket and new fuse.

gjws · Jun 11, 2013

Hi all,

I would like to add a Powerlet Socket (or two) to my new HDB top clamp ensemble for heated clothing and general gadget goodness. Ideally I'd like to add a new fuse as there appear to be a couple of spare slots in the fusebox so the whole job is kind of OEMish (is that a word??)

Not sure on current draw at this point but I figure using a 10 amp fuse will have me covered for pretty much anything I could ever plug in, and sits well as I carry a number of spare 10 amp fuses already. Has anyone else ever undertaken such a task? Is it difficult, or even possible to add a fuse to the fusebox, or should I just use an in-line fuse and come straight off the battery? Either way I plan on running to a relay switched with the ignition, that then runs to the outlet so there is only power available when the engine is running.

By my math, a 10 amp fuse at 12 volts would allow for a total draw of 120 watts. Looking at a few sites with regards to voltage drop and cable run I'm thinking a 2mm diameter cable should comfortably carry the required 10amps for the approximate 1.5 meter run. Does that sound reasonable?

Any other suggestions are more than welcome!

Thanks for your help.

Bergini · Jun 11, 2013

gjws said:
Hi all,

I would like to add a Powerlet Socket (or two) to my new HDB top clamp ensemble for heated clothing and general gadget goodness. Ideally I'd like to add a new fuse as there appear to be a couple of spare slots in the fusebox so the whole job is kind of OEMish (is that a word??) <sure!!

not sure on your model and what you fuse bo looks like but generally speaking you can add fuses as needed, to make it oem(ish) you woul ideally have more of the wires with the proper female receptable end to match the fuse blade and alo hold itself into the fuse box, i have seen people 'rig' up regular wires and flat blade terminals into stock fuse boxes with success but are not as good as a perfectly matched connector that plugs right into the back of the fuse box, not sure if its worth it or not, a inline fuse is obviously easy and fairly clean looking and hideable, if its worth it or not is up to you

Not sure on current draw at this point but I figure using a 10 amp fuse will have me covered for pretty much anything I could ever plug in, and sits well as I carry a number of spare 10 amp fuses already. Has anyone else ever undertaken such a task? Is it difficult, or even possible to add a fuse to the fusebox, or should I just use an in-line fuse and come straight off the battery? Either way I plan on running to a relay switched with the ignition, that then runs to the outlet so there is only power available when the engine is running.

Dont electric small items usually list there current pull and/or wattage on the labels?otherwise i am sure researching the items you want will get you a pretty close idea of what your pulling to let you know if it overrunning the stator or not, not sure what kind of output your bike has

By my math, a 10 amp fuse at 12 volts would allow for a total draw of 120 watts. Looking at a few sites with regards to voltage drop and cable run I'm thinking a 2mm diameter cable should comfortably carry the required 10amps for the approximate 1.5 meter run. Does that sound reasonable?

IMO thats reasonable, guess i am more familiar with wiring measured in guages

Any other suggestions are more than welcome!

Thanks for your help.

gjws · Jun 11, 2013

Thanks Bergini.

I know, the whole mm/awg thing make it interesting while researching, I've got an iPhone app now to make it easier to convert! Basically I'll be running 12 AWG cable.

I've got a 2012 FE390 and the fuse box looks like this:

wTZQCKTzWkW6vbNY-1rrdiDjg1Xz9mhaz99rPe4opKQ=w276-h207-p-no

64_C71MIrfstW5df7K3RhhoWOGjFhRRC3lyg3b2jMro=w276-h207-p-no

Only reason I'm not sure on current right now is I'm really not sure what I'll run. I'm thinking along the lines of:

G3 Heated Gloves: 2.2 Amps
G3 Heated Vest liner: 4.5 Amps
Montana GPS: <1 Amp

So I should easily come in under 10 Amps, and even have some overhead for heated insoles if I get really soft

I'm not sure on what type of female connector you mean, I guess I'll have to pull the fuse box out and have a bit of a look, should keep me busy on the weekend.

Bergini · Jun 11, 2013

Haha, yea 12-14 guage s what i was thinking so you on the same page....

by the female connector i mean, trying think how to describe it....

when you look very closely at where the metal part of the fuse goes into the fuse box and you see the metal peice in the hole the fuse plugs into? that the part i am talking about. it touches the metal blade parts of the fuse the wire connects to it and goes out the back of the fuse box.

usually if you look really closely you can figure out how to get it out of the fuse box and move it to a different location in the fuse box,and it would click right into the blank spot and essentially would be exactly as the factory installled it. of course you do not want to just move it to a different location you want to add another,
---In that scenario, what i would do, is to try to get the little female receptacle to pop out of the fuse box without damaging the wire so it could be put right back inthe same place. and then compare it to another connectors ends (i save lots of used automotive fuse boxes and connectors for this reason) find something that is acceptable and try to make it work, it my take some trial and error. a lot of times to find random wire connections like this you could go to the autopart store or maybe a freindly car dealership who saves connectors and fuse boxes, then you maybe could find something that would work and would be OEMish

basically the goal would be anything that the fuse will plug into and also plug into your fuse box and not come out when changing fuses.

maybe its not something that would even work and be a waste of time, i really cant say for sure without seeing the connector in person.

i just know it can be done at times and i have done it many times, even done on my current turn signal switch to wiring harness connector, what i had to due to match all the wires to there proper circuit since its not a stock switch, was remove all the wires from the plastic xonnector part by pushing a paperclip up where the back side of the wiring went into the plastic connector and bending a tiny brass kind of tab lock thing while pulling the wire and once the tab bent far enought the wire and all popped right out, then i took alll the wires out of the old switches connector the same way, repositioned all of them into the new switches connector then pushed the wires into the connecotr to seat themin place and make sure they locked in, then reconnected the connecot and voila, its like it was never modified with aftermarket switch with stock harness. your kinda doing the same thing. just adding a circuit to the connector.

hopefully some of that makes sense i am not proofreading it. it was a long *** day and its super late and i am rambling i think so sorry for that. i also gotta wake up early tommorow and gotta go to bed asap since its actaully already tomorrow here :lol: good luck

Search

Search

Adding Powerlet Socket and new fuse.

gjws

Bergini

gjws

Bergini

Similar threads

Register CTA

Recent Discussions