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650 Rebuild!

Joined Nov 2014
75 Posts | 35+
Australia
Hey kids

The time is upon us. Some horrible bottom end clunking noise from the berg the other day, and Ive been itching to tear into it for a while. Oil showing flakes for the last few changes. Hoping to return it to a much better state than what I got it in, inside and out!

at 170hrs on a full rebuild.

Ill use this thread for advice and updates for those doing something similar.
Wouldnt be possible without the teachings of bush mechanic, Dr.c and a few others, you guys are golden.

So I was hoping to find something obviously wrong, but so far Ive only got some tired looking mains, a dead output bearing and a sneaking suspicion that the balancer bearings are cactus. I havent ripped the left side off the shafts yet, but ill do that in the next few days.

Edit: apologies for the huge photos, computers arent my strong point!

Rotor be gone!

SlH6iiLl.jpg


New engine upgrade?

SuvKRgnl.jpg


Cases came apart without a splitter! Just gentle taps with a plastic hammer on the crank and output shaft.

VxkxUHml.jpg


Heres the right side main, SKF. I think I know where some of the flakes have come from!

XmG39VEl.jpg


And my liner from a few different sides, Its actually in good shape so I dont think Ill bother replacing- probably a hone and the next size piston.
JC8ws65l.jpg

aBBFwonl.jpg


And heres the Wossner piston- the wrist pin journal is toast!
DEFhQdJl.jpg
 
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Resized the pictures!

Gearbox output bearing, feels super sloppy and is banged up to hell.
79bAsYal.jpg


Wossner piston at 170hrs. Never used much oil, but the oil control ring doesnt have much life left. Also scratched up on both skirts. As you saw before, the wrist pin journal is worn badly. New piston in the works. Wossner is cheapest by a mile but I suspect theres a reason for that.
SICnwYUl.jpg

7dOcu8Rl.jpg


Onwards!
 
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nice pics

the cheapest piston is pro X .. approx 100hr life im not using any of their stuff in a berg again LOL

your wossner skirt looks pretty good really

your liner is in good nick and prolly won't get much bigger from the hone check clearences in manual or from piston mnfr before ordering the piston sizing
 
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nice pics

the cheapest piston is pro X .. approx 100hr life im not using any of their stuff in a berg again LOL

your wossner skirt looks pretty good really

your liner is in good nick and prolly won't get much bigger from the hone check clearences in manual or from piston mnfr before ordering the piston sizing

Indeed, that piston skirt looks pretty damn good compared to the pistions I have pulled outta my 650. Keep up the good work and you may want to take a good long look at Bushmechanic's 628 Mongrel thread. If you're inclined to modify the motor for additional reliability - that thread contains great advice. While you're in there, it's the time to do so!
 
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Bushy

Ive actually heard good things about ProX and they seem quite expensive? a good $50 on what the Wossners cost, Ill hunt around now youve told me something different.

Quick question, can I reuse the inner main bearing race if it looks like its in good nic?

And Goose, ive had a solid read of that thread, its all great info. I had to tear myself away from his 710 thread, my plans were running wild haha!
 
hi lemony

the prox piston part# for the 80mm crank is 01.6606.A B or C they are 20-40 usd cheaper than wossners and a dimensional copy of the oem 628 elko but i would not use one again.

wossner don't have a piston for the 80mm crank, theirs is for the 82mm crank whats the number on top of yours ?

Im using a wossner 8737 570 piston this time, its not exactly the same as oem 628 elko or the prox listed above, you would have to check exhaust valve to piston clearance (should be just ok)

the other option is to get a wossner 8583 listed as for a ktm 540 or 560 piston and machine out the top to your requirements.

you could re use a bearing inner but i wouldn't, leave it on for now to determine crank axial play if you haven't already measured it

then remove the inner race with a die grinder cut nearly through and cold chisel to split it open or can hold crank up in the air and use oxy torch to quickly head the race, will drop off, or there is a tool you can make or buy .. see makazaikas four stroke force 450 build.

then make required adjustments to the shims and install the new race.

I prefer to use the cut method as you then have a dummy inner race you can use to get the axial play right
 
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8551DA
10503-16

So definitely a wossner 650, but im not sure of the size (A,B,C).

And Ive learnt that Ebay isnt the place to be comparing prices haha.

Im a big fan of using oxy torches so that method seems the goods.

Ive been using a small copper plumbing bolt to jam into the gears which worked perfectly last night- the entire motor is now in bits. For the clutch basket inner I threw the motor back into the bike, got 6th gear and stood on the back brake. Cracked the centre nut off perfectly.

My balancer is a bit of a concern. It doesnt have any up-down play, but its happy to wiggle side to side a tiny amount. Maybe half a mm measured at the end of the balancer. I cant find any measure of how much play is too much!

Im looking forward to baking my cases, as a chef I am super experienced with tasty baked goods.
 
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Hi, the piston you should use is the wossner. From '01 to '03 husaberg used as oem piston the wossner which is flat on top but 1.5mm shorter(not good). The '04 husabergs used the wossner but it was the same as elko. From '05 to '08 they use the elko. If you download the '04 650 service manual you will see what i mean, the part number is listed there(for the '04 wossner). Check for prices and buy the cheaper(wossner or elko). The prox piston is cheaper but don't last as wossner or elko.
 
8551 is listed for a 650 but its not right

specs 23mm in height, -2.1cc volume

which is a copy of some of the early 644 pistons and the later 550 piston

your squish with that piston on the 80mm crank is approx 2.7mm and the cr is also a bit lower than the oem piston.

while this obviously works there is a better way to do it.

the OEM ELKO piston for the 80mm crank has a height of 24.5mm and a volume of -10.5cc (approx) this gives squish equal to the compressed head gasket thickness (1.2mm) and a CR of approx 11.8:1

if you want a wossner with these dimensions you have the 2 options i mentioned above or if i understand his post correctly you could consider the wossner as an oem part as mentioned by johhnyberg, im not familiar with this piston though.
 
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True, thats interesting info. I dont doubt it because I remember thinking the squish was huge last time I had the head off.

Removed mains and gearbox seals, gently heated the case with a gas torch, a few drops of cold water into the bearing, one solid hit with the deadblow on a 30mm socket. Didnt expect them to come out so easily if Im honest.

After removing the gearbox output bearing its pretty clear its eaten something nasty, rollers and outer race are scratched up badly.

27MozXsh.jpg


Having issues getting this bad boy off, without removing it I cant take out the LHS main bearing. Ive tried prying with two screwdrivers and heating, but I think ill just stop being cheap and go buy a gear puller.

96eq4nRh.jpg
 
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Frame and a few other bits went to the powdercoaters last week, figured I may as well go to town on it. Ive degreased, polished or cleaned just about every other bit on the bike. New bolts on the way too, and I even shouted myself a new 8mm socket! Before:

XSAUmxCh.jpg


The plastics have always been the biggest let down on an otherwise great machine- theyre all woefully UV stained and banged up from being thrown down the road so many times. So ive slowly been sanding them back by hand- its tough but the results are great.

aPv14Cfl.jpg


Motor is all in bits and waiting for the good stuff to go back in. If it wasnt obvious, staying organised is key here. I know where every single bit is hiding and it will pay off in the long run.

EsdWQMPh.jpg

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My biggest issue so far (and berg ownership in general) has been the lack of parts in Australia, and the price I pay for shipping is huge. Not to mention the price of berg bits is high in general, and exchange rates are ******. A pretty mediocre shopping cart from Taffys comes to $415- quite a bit for some seals, gaskets and a few other bits. No piston or mains! As usual Ive balked a bit here haha.

Ive had cringeworthy dealings with some of the australian KTM parts suppliers- wrong parts, no refund, no communication ect. Mototech holds up, however they dont stock dedicated berg parts.

Onwards!
 
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If you order from the uk again, I would highly recommend dave Clarke racing. Not sure on postage costs abroad but his parts are priced well and he can pretty much get anything.
 
If I choose to remove the balancer and rebalance my crank, I'd assume that a spacer would have to be machined to fit between the main bearing race and the crank but I've never heard mention of this being done. Maybe something matching the counter Balancer and shimmed as normal? I'm pretty sure that the balancer bearings are toast and I'm keen to have a go running the bike without it. Big believer in the kiss theory.

Anyway, I've found a place that has the heat transfer tool and they're happy to replace the bearing inners for me. The RHS inner is heat scortched from the failure- every shade of blue and purple on one side.

Meanwhile I've been spending lots of time of the chassis, repainting, cleaning and replacing. The thing looks great even in bits.
 
I'm pretty sure that you can knock the centre out of you counter balance bearing and use it for a spacer. That what I did. But, mine still isn't assembled so .....
 
Yeah kayeffes, I was picturing just leaving the balancer bearings on the crank. Didn't think of pulling the bearings apart and just using the inner races. The tech drawings still show the little lip between the two bearings in the balancer itself, possibly measure that and shim accordingly?
 
LemoneyF!
You seem to be all set and the rebuild is coming along just nicely! I have very little experience with OEM Husaberg so I cannot be of much assistance, but you are in the good hands of Bushie & Co!

When it comes to squish... With 75-85mm stroke and 100-ish bore, the squish needs to be 1,0-1,3mm or larger than 1,7-1,8mm (bad choice). Between 1,4mm and 1,7mm with normal 95-98 octane fuel the knocking will possibly kill your lands for the piston compression ring. With 1,0-1,3mm the gap in running condition will get close to 0, making the squish band not able to contain any combustable gasses. Between 1,4 and 1,8 the gap will be large enough to contain gas AND get compressed to knocking levels.

That´s all the useless information for now! ;-)
 
Not useless info at all!

Quick update, got the frame back from the powdercoaters. Pictures do it no justice, it looks unreal!
9o00A4Gl.jpg
 
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