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LemoneyF said:
If I choose to remove the balancer and rebalance my crank, I'd assume that a spacer would have to be machined to fit between the main bearing race and the crank but I've never heard mention of this being done. Maybe something matching the counter Balancer and shimmed as normal? I'm pretty sure that the balancer bearings are toast and I'm keen to have a go running the bike without it. Big believer in the kiss theory.

Anyway, I've found a place that has the heat transfer tool and they're happy to replace the bearing inners for me. The RHS inner is heat scortched from the failure- every shade of blue and purple on one side.

Meanwhile I've been spending lots of time of the chassis, repainting, cleaning and replacing. The thing looks great even in bits.
Click to expand...

making a specific spacer is the way to go, the inner of the CB bearing doesn't offer ideal support to the roller bearings inner lip

there used to be a fantastic picture in weeds gallery showing how to make a nice spacer .. unfortunately gallery no work
 
Thanks bushy, still not sure if I should keep it or bin it.

In the process of tracking down mains and a piston now, the only bits I'm missing.

Good things are happening! The chassis is coming back together now.
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Painting is going well
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Sanding these back
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Normally, I don't like painted engine bits. However, I confess to liking the painted bits as done here with the brushed off lettering. Well done sir, well done.

Current status of my build is a bit sad. After running into problem after problem (stripped bolts, missing clips, disorganization issues, having to move everything issues, etc.), I heard an awful sound after initial start up coming from clutch area. Immediately shut her down and will be investigating this weekend. (lacked impact wrench to remove bolt last weekend so, has to wait)

20150913_091952_zps6su0ylrs.jpg
 
Yeah goose, I was hesitant at first but I love the way it came out. I did my valve covers as well, they look unreal.

After so much disassembly and repair in the past my bolts were knackered too, I just bought a few bolt kits on the cheap. They look great too.

You know if you ever give up on it, you've got a buyer for your akro can haha!
 
LemoneyF said:
You know if you ever give up on it, you've got a buyer for your akro can haha!
Click to expand...

I'll keep you in mind! I once told a friend of mine that my Husaberg affliction was based on some need to help the unrecognized, flawed yet over-acheiving orphan . . . he countered with:

"I pictured it more like the heroin addicted ex that keeps turning up, the bleeding you dry, breaking your heart, and crushing your soul, but you keep taking her back because it's the most fun ride you've ever had..."

I think his description was more truthful ;):D
 
Goose916 said:
"I pictured it more like the heroin addicted ex that keeps turning up, the bleeding you dry, breaking your heart, and crushing your soul, but you keep taking her back because it's the most fun ride you've ever had..."
Click to expand...

Spot on.
 
The good news is that I've got everything ready to go back together for the build. Bearings are in, piston is ringed and ready to go and I have one amazing looking bike.

The bad news is I've already snagged installing the gearbox shift drum and mechanism. The marks that I've left on the star have come off as I cleaned the thing with a turps soaked rag. Idiot!

So after an hour of screwing with this thing I've achieved basically nothing. I don't understand how its so hard to get this right and even with finding first every time I'm getting gears below and above this position. Surely there's only one way the shift forks can be going in? The workshop manual has been of frighteningly little help on this issue.

I'm missing something simple, I know it. Any help is appreciated

Edit: I think I'm all good. Everything is just super tight with the new case bearings and my hand turning was hitting false neutrals in a few places. It shifts fine from 2nd to 6th with the gearbox in the left case only. Neutral and first are a bit sketchy and 5th feels rather stiff. The shift star is struggling to drag into the next gears. I'm thinking that all of this will improve after a good run in.
 
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I too had an awkward time installing and testing the gearbox. For me it was a function of inexperience in addition to having to button up the motor to fully check the shifts. With patience and an understanding that things were all doing the correct actions to the extent they could be checked, the gearbox came together nicely. Now, if only I could figure out my other issues
 
Still having clutch troubles goose?

You should see my latest purchase. WR 360 that was sat in a shed for 12 years because one of the inner clutch hub lugs had snapped off and started making horrid noises. Owner assumed big end. Bought it for $900. I had a spare hub in the shed. Don't be THAT guy hahaha. Nothing is impossible to fix.
 
So I've bolted the cases together to check axial clearance and noticed just how hard it is to turn the gearbox over. I can only just do it by hand with leverage from the inner hub. It's tight, and pretty concerning. With the cases apart the gearbox turns freely.

Would there be any obvious causes for this? The gearbox output bearing is new.
 
Yeah, both very tight. Selector drum moves freely but obviously wont engage until the primary shaft has rotated a bit. I thought I had the answer as I had misplaced the stop disk (number 15) on the countershaft and put it up against the inside bearing. No idea how I managed that. I bolted the cases together for a test fit and it worked perfectly. So I pulled the cases apart again, sealed it up and torqued all bolts to 10nm.

Guess what? same problem, just now Its all sealed up! maybe not quite as tight but I still need the inner clutch hub attached to turn the primary shaft. I can just turn the countershaft with the sprocket. I initially thought the gearbox output bearing might haave been tight but the inner race isnt skidding.

Any other thoughts before I rip it apart again? So frustrating, its the final hurdle!
 
hello! I have the excact same problem. I have replaced all the bearings. Everything is installed correctly, I'm very sure. I can easily change trough all gears. However I can bearly turn the shafts as you describe by hand. with the sprocket or clutch hub its ok to turn. I hope it's just the bearings that is tight and it needs to break in or something.

I did split the cases 5 times with the exact same problem. But now it is sealed up and hoping for the best.
 
That was my tought to. I did heat the casing and had the bearings in the freezer. They went in rather easy. After the first time I tightened the cases together I then split the cases again and then hammered on the bearings even more to be 100% sure that they where all the way in.(on the outer race of course) I can tell by the sound that they have seated. While I have the gear in neutral it is kind of hard to hold the output shaft still while rotating the clutch shaft. Sometimes when rotating enough it seems to loosen up for a couple of revolutions then it tightens back up. It does not lock up at any point or making any grinding noises, it's just a tad tight to turn. It does not depend on wich gear it is in.
 

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