Help Support Husaberg:
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2001
- Messages
- 17,043
- Location
- Ely, England
do you nothing but gears on the 4 ends or do you have a washer on the end of one of them?
try using a copper hammer and give the ends of the shafts a good slap! use a brad-nosed pin to slap them back.
regards
Taffy
try using a copper hammer and give the ends of the shafts a good slap! use a brad-nosed pin to slap them back.
regards
Taffy
Hahaha I hope you guys are sitting down.
SOMEHOW, I had a washer that perfectly matched the stopdisk internal and external diameter on my countershaft that was minutely too thick. I accidentally kicked a few parts boxes about a month back and its likely too have been mixed with any one of the multitude of husqvarna parts I have laying around these days. I had a sudden moment of clarity when I realised my WR inner hubs are nearly identical.
It was an axial clearance problem as Dr. C suggested and I began measuring parts and comparing to quoted values in the book. Lesson learned. Dont kick things.
So the motor is back together and got its first start today. It sounds great.
However Im unfortunately im back to an old problem that Id hoped would go away with (yet another) set of water pump seals. Im loosing a hell of a lot of water through the weephole. Ive burned through 2 separate sets of seals in the past but this time its so bad that the bike is completely unridable. Its not a slow drip anymore, its nearly like a tap. Ive recently installed the orangeberg weephole kit but that only deals with the oil side of things. Ive always used a protective thingy to cover the balancer shaft.
Im going to open up the side of the motor again tonight to see whats going on. I fail to see how the shaft could have been bent in any way but ive never tested it.
Ill get there eventually!
SOMEHOW, I had a washer that perfectly matched the stopdisk internal and external diameter on my countershaft that was minutely too thick. I accidentally kicked a few parts boxes about a month back and its likely too have been mixed with any one of the multitude of husqvarna parts I have laying around these days. I had a sudden moment of clarity when I realised my WR inner hubs are nearly identical.
It was an axial clearance problem as Dr. C suggested and I began measuring parts and comparing to quoted values in the book. Lesson learned. Dont kick things.
So the motor is back together and got its first start today. It sounds great.
However Im unfortunately im back to an old problem that Id hoped would go away with (yet another) set of water pump seals. Im loosing a hell of a lot of water through the weephole. Ive burned through 2 separate sets of seals in the past but this time its so bad that the bike is completely unridable. Its not a slow drip anymore, its nearly like a tap. Ive recently installed the orangeberg weephole kit but that only deals with the oil side of things. Ive always used a protective thingy to cover the balancer shaft.
Im going to open up the side of the motor again tonight to see whats going on. I fail to see how the shaft could have been bent in any way but ive never tested it.
Ill get there eventually!
- Joined
- May 21, 2010
- Messages
- 595
- Location
- San Francisco, California
While you are there, change to a fresh o ring on the shaft. Those things get compressed and that also causes weep hole issues
I worked nearly as hard on the chassis as I did the motor, and Im glad I did. These photos do it no justice, it looks unreal!
Shiny stuff.
I took it for a spin tonight and the waterpump seal only leaks when the motor gets hot, namely at traffic lights. So that gives me some breathing room to fix it as the rest of the motor goes through its break in.
taffy, I have only gears no washer on the ends of any shaft. However when I tap the output shaft outwards the sprocket it loosens up. Seems like the gears are climbing and pushing the output shaft inwards and making it hard to turn. Could I just put a thin washer on the end of the output shaft to shim it the correct way, making it impossible for it to move? This should lock it in place
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2001
- Messages
- 17,043
- Location
- Ely, England
I reckon you have a gear the wrong way round? I'm thinking of 5th and 6th on the output shaft?
strip it and have another loook. go by the schematic diagram religously!
regards
Taffy
strip it and have another loook. go by the schematic diagram religously!
regards
Taffy
zzxcrozzy, I know theres at least one gear in my 650 which the manual specifically says must be installed with the part numbers facing to the out. I looked at that gear and as far as I could tell it was symmetrical, but it might be something like that holding you back?
You know whats frustrating? rebuilding an entire motor only to be stopped at the last by a *%^$#@% waterpump. I had the cover off today to try and fix this for good, and now its so bad that I had to top up the coolant after 10mins of riding. Not only that, im also getting oil out of the weephole as well.
I installed an orangeberg weephole kit during the build and that bearing has now gone very, very tight. For what reason I dont know. Seated correctly and all. I think that its gone tight on the shaft and has damaged it.
And the new seals? have done nothing. Appear to be worse than the old ones actually.
I initally thought that the balancer shaft was bent, but its fine. Im using the heatshrink cover, and the seals are in the right way. Ive already tried installing them every other way too.
The frustration. Im getting my ass handed to me by a waterpump. Its unridable again anyway, im currently watching it dump its coolant all over the floor.
Good times.
I installed an orangeberg weephole kit during the build and that bearing has now gone very, very tight. For what reason I dont know. Seated correctly and all. I think that its gone tight on the shaft and has damaged it.
And the new seals? have done nothing. Appear to be worse than the old ones actually.
I initally thought that the balancer shaft was bent, but its fine. Im using the heatshrink cover, and the seals are in the right way. Ive already tried installing them every other way too.
The frustration. Im getting my ass handed to me by a waterpump. Its unridable again anyway, im currently watching it dump its coolant all over the floor.
Good times.
hello, I have followed this diagram religiously"http://www.husaberg.com/uploads/media/HU_PartsManual_00_GB.pdf"Page 44. Except from the last gear on the output shaft as you mentioned. number 27(closest to sprocket), I did turn it the other way around so that the shift dog recces did match up with the shift dogs on the gear next to it(number 26).
Can anyone confirm if the manual has flipped it the wrong way??
LemoneyF, which gear were supposed to have the partnumber in a specific direction?
PS: there is also a some amount of movement in and out on the shift drum, normal?
The last gear on the primary shaft, furthest away from the clutch (I think).
So yeah, as I mentioned the weephole kit bearing siezed, wrecked the oring and threw oil over my back tire, a scary time that was. In its time with me its very rarely traveled further than pushing distance from home, as its (still) unfortunately very unreliable. As ive come to a few personal issues Im very nearly ready to pack it in but im willing to give it one more push.
I drained its first sump of oil at 20ks. The next at 50. As with before I tore the motor down, theres still a few glittery non metallic flakes of unknown origin. Even with inspection of every part in there I couldnt work out where they were coming from. Think tiny squares of glitter. Weird.
Ive got the motor in bits again now, any ideas?
So yeah, as I mentioned the weephole kit bearing siezed, wrecked the oring and threw oil over my back tire, a scary time that was. In its time with me its very rarely traveled further than pushing distance from home, as its (still) unfortunately very unreliable. As ive come to a few personal issues Im very nearly ready to pack it in but im willing to give it one more push.
I drained its first sump of oil at 20ks. The next at 50. As with before I tore the motor down, theres still a few glittery non metallic flakes of unknown origin. Even with inspection of every part in there I couldnt work out where they were coming from. Think tiny squares of glitter. Weird.
Ive got the motor in bits again now, any ideas?
- Joined
- May 21, 2010
- Messages
- 595
- Location
- San Francisco, California
I hear yah LemoneyF. I attribute my build issues to a lack of experience and skill. I may have been too hasty and not double checked each system against the parts manual diagram as I went along. Consequently, I'm slowly working backward to splitting the cases again if I can't figure out the "noise". Mostly it's fun, but it can certainly be frustrating. However, I don't really have a choice at this point. Damn thing isn't worth any money in the "market" and they still don't build anything like it. Besides, it's like learning on a no risk bike at this point. All the money is already spent and I couldn't get anything for it . . . so why not just keep at it?
Btw, some (a bit) of glitter is normal. Big flakes should give you cause for the pause and you should be looking for the source. The cross cut transmission gears almost always deliver some metal to your magnet. I always check the screen filter. It's been my most reliable indicator of "meh, just a bit of metal" (no problem) or "wholly ****! damn thing is clogged! WTF is going on in there".
Btw, some (a bit) of glitter is normal. Big flakes should give you cause for the pause and you should be looking for the source. The cross cut transmission gears almost always deliver some metal to your magnet. I always check the screen filter. It's been my most reliable indicator of "meh, just a bit of metal" (no problem) or "wholly ****! damn thing is clogged! WTF is going on in there".
If anybody where to wonder, I fixed my gearbox problem. It appeared that the output shaft end that contacts the ball bearing inner race was worn of 0.2mm ish axially(caused by seized up bearing i reckon), wich led to the gear rubbing aluminium of the case instead of the shaft contacting the bearing. Fixed it by adding a 0.2mm washer on the end of the shaft. Seems like the husaberg gearbox is a really tight fit and there is no room for error before it starts to grind.
Good to hear man, lots of wheelies now I hope?
Yeah it's frustrating all right. I can build rock solid husky motors but getting this right eludes me. It's such a simple platform too, it drives me nuts.
I replaced my rocker shafts a while back because the chrome coating was starting to disintegrate, and that was my only guess as to the source. The new ones are already beginning to go the same way, like they are being starved of oil? Could it be doing this on cold startups?
Yeah it's frustrating all right. I can build rock solid husky motors but getting this right eludes me. It's such a simple platform too, it drives me nuts.
I replaced my rocker shafts a while back because the chrome coating was starting to disintegrate, and that was my only guess as to the source. The new ones are already beginning to go the same way, like they are being starved of oil? Could it be doing this on cold startups?
- Joined
- May 21, 2010
- Messages
- 595
- Location
- San Francisco, California
That's an issue I haven't experienced (oil starvation or coating issues). I too share the simplicity is somehow complex issue though. Husaberg = Swedish for irony!
It actually hit me just after I posted this. Oil pump was within wear limits but I didn't have a go at boosting oil pressure as suggested in Bush mechanics thread. There's surely only one reason why it's happening. The oil channels were clear and I'm running 15/50 oil currently, usually 10 40.
- Joined
- May 21, 2010
- Messages
- 595
- Location
- San Francisco, California
Any update?
Yeah sorry, it's a late one!
700kms now.
So there's been a few issues. I still have no idea why the orangeberg bearing seized the way it did. Seated properly and all. That then shredded the shaft o ring and caused the oil leak. Onto my back tire. Good fun. I went back to the old bearing with a new seal. The water pump seal was replaced and so far is holding up.
I have changed the oil 4 times now and the last change was surprisingly clean. Not perfect, but clean.
The motor is noisy as always and some noises have gone away while others have appeared. I could be imagining things here, but overall it sounds pretty healthy.
I've now moved onto tuning it. I'm trying a 48 pilot at the moment and it seems a little better off the bottom and a little happier to cruise along gently.
I've still got 16/38 gearing which takes it just under 200kmh, but I'm keen to go back to the 42 in the interest of not wearing out front tires.
The neighbours still hate it, it's still one of the fastest in the mountains and my faith in it's reliability is growing.
Good times.
700kms now.
So there's been a few issues. I still have no idea why the orangeberg bearing seized the way it did. Seated properly and all. That then shredded the shaft o ring and caused the oil leak. Onto my back tire. Good fun. I went back to the old bearing with a new seal. The water pump seal was replaced and so far is holding up.
I have changed the oil 4 times now and the last change was surprisingly clean. Not perfect, but clean.
The motor is noisy as always and some noises have gone away while others have appeared. I could be imagining things here, but overall it sounds pretty healthy.
I've now moved onto tuning it. I'm trying a 48 pilot at the moment and it seems a little better off the bottom and a little happier to cruise along gently.
I've still got 16/38 gearing which takes it just under 200kmh, but I'm keen to go back to the 42 in the interest of not wearing out front tires.
The neighbours still hate it, it's still one of the fastest in the mountains and my faith in it's reliability is growing.
Good times.
