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2011 FE570S Smog Stuff Removal Question

Joined Apr 2011
36 Posts | 0+
Copake Lake, NY, USA
Hi, I am picking up my new '11 FE570S on Saturday. Pretty stoked about getting this new bike.

I am trying to find info on removal of the carbon canister and any other smog related crap on these bikes. I did this to my '08 WR250R and there were quite a few parts to remove and the process was extensive (removing EXUP, AIS, Flapper, etc. and included making a terminus for the EXUP wiring harness).

My question is ... can someone please point me to a thread here or link somewhere else describing removal of the carbon canister and anything else smog related?

Thanks, Ross
 
Ross, haven't heard about the carbon canister (yet but I'm all ears) but I can tell you to remove that "air induction" contraption on the right side of the head. You should have an aluminum plug in your tool kit from the factory. Just undo the hose, undo the two phillips screws and remove the plate with the hose fitting. Now just grab that thing (I used a channel lock and a rag to keep from damaging it) and twist counter clockwise. Once it's off, take the brass crush ring and new plug and just cap off the hole. Now just yank that hose off. It actually goes nowhere. There is just a little air filter on the end of it and it's stuffed up under the tank. Be careful not to pull it out too hard or you can damage your radiator cooling fins.

Now about that carbon canister...it's in the pipe right? Will removing that open it up and let it breathe more? I'm interested to hear about that. The bike hauls but you can't go wrong giving it bigger lungs.

Thanks,
J
 
I think we are talking about the same thing. The "air induction" contraption on the right side of the head as you say.

So it's that easy to remove it ... then I guess that will be the first thing I do when I get my new bike home on Saturday. Thanks.
 
Gargoyl - See if yours pops / backfires on deceleration before taking it off (if you don't mind). My suspicion is that Husaberg knows these bikes don't run right with that thing on, so they provide you with a mysterious plug and don't say a word. Mine was backfiring like mad, with the Euro Comp Map installed. Took that smog doo-hickey off and pow...no more pop. Problem solved.
 
OK, will do this weekend before I start taking things off :) I will also try it with the stock and comp maps to see if that makes any difference.
 
I had done everything but disconnecting the air intake valve thing, and it was the instant cure for the
lean popping my 2011 570 was experiencing. Now it finally runs the way it was designed to.
KIM A.
 
Took my maiden voyage today. 73 miles total. Half on back roads and half in the woods. Did some pretty nasty steep rocky power lines along the way. So, this is what a real suspension feels like ... wow :-D

I rode the whole time with the stock map. For sure, the bike pops and backfires on deceleration. It would stall very easy too in the tight stuff. I am going out to wash her and then rip the "air induction" contraption off.
 
Were you running the stock gearing too? It's really tall IMHO. I went to a 13 front immediately. Also just got my new 50 for the rear. Unless you want/need to go FAST it's easy to gear down and give yourself some crawl-ability for tight stuff. I'm currently at 13/42 and kinda wish 1st was lower for the tight tight stuff. For the rest, well, that's why I got the 6 speed...plenty of room to find the sweet spot. I like to ride in 3 - 4 more than 1 - 2.

So, as for suspension, I couldn't agree more. Stuff that would bounce me around on the YZ just fades into the landscape. Big rocks, ruts, especially those deep step-like ruts on the rabbit trails...easily rolls over them and I haven't even started to customize for my weight. I think I"m about 215 - 220 in gear...need to weigh myself obviously.

Now, when you get rid of that popping and get the new Comp Map installed you'll be in HEAVEN...what a fun bike.

I will say this however...after 10 years on the old 426, this bike takes some getting used to. I got stuck on a hill cuz I didn't attack it with confidence...it took me a while to get this big girl turned around on the steep hillside in a deep V style rut. Took a few tries and made me realize that I need to watch Rocky IV and start chopping wood, lifting rocks and carrying logs in the snow...ok, maybe just lift a little weights. :lol:
 
Yes BlueDevil, I am running stock gearing. Looks like it is 14/42. I will get a 13 ASAP and try that. But I am guessing I will eventually go up on the rear as well. Will be interested to hear how you like going all the way to a 50 rear.

I didn't take off the canister or valve today. I couldn't see them!?!? What do I have to take off to see those two? I took off the tank plastics ... but didn't take off the radiator guards (Bullet Proof Designs) or the tank yet.

Barshoe it sounds like you took all that stuff off. Any help describing what you did would be appreciated.
 
The air induction valve is the important part. Remove it and plug it off. The canister is located under the
left fender well / number plate. Remove both fenders, black rear one and the large white one and
yank the smog.
 
Also, 13/48 works pretty good. Lower 1st with a little speed at the top left over.
 
Two questions.

I think this hose snakes thru the frame and attaches to the gas tank cap. Can I cut that hose and pull it all the way out?

canister002-1.jpg


Is this where the plug goes? If so, my plug is threaded and the opening isn't. And my plug seems a bit too big to fit in there? Help!?!

canister003-1.jpg
 
Barshoe said:
Also, 13/48 works pretty good. Lower 1st with a little speed at the top left over.
I took your advice and put on a 48T rear. I have a 13T front in hand, but I want to see how 14/48 feels on the trails this weekend before I mount it.

I also got all the smog stuff off. Thanks for the help guys.

berg1.jpg
 
Gargoyle said:
I think we are talking about the same thing. The "air induction" contraption on the right side of the head as you say.

So it's that easy to remove it ... then I guess that will be the first thing I do when I get my new bike home on Saturday. Thanks.

Is that the same as the ¨secondary air system¨which I got in my box of spares - about 1/2´rubber hose with what seems like an aluminium check valve on the one end and a black plastic filter? on the other?

As far as I can see I don´t have an aluminium ¨plug¨to stick in anywhere.

Does anybody know what the original idea was behimd the air induction contraption? Is it not there for some important function? I´m a bit weary of removing bits of bike I don´t understand...
 
Gargoyle said:
Two questions.

I think this hose snakes thru the frame and attaches to the gas tank cap. Can I cut that hose and pull it all the way out?

canister002-1.jpg


Is this where the plug goes? If so, my plug is threaded and the opening isn't. And my plug seems a bit too big to fit in there? Help!?!

canister003-1.jpg

Hi Gargoyle,

I tried the fiend the "smog remover thing" , but when I removed the fender as shown in your pictures there was noting there. The plastic subframe does not have the same cavity pictured in you photo's. I have the 2011 FE 570 as well. Does this mean mine does not have the same smog remover? Damn I hope not, I was hoping for some cheap fixit for the backfiring.

cheers,
"Die Bergie"
 
Try looking at page 32 of your Chassis parts manual, and page 18 of your engine parts manual.

It appears to me that the threaded plug goes into the head ( part #10 on page 32) where the vacuum line from the valve for the carbon canister gets its vacuum from the head.

Remove all of the vacuum lines, the canister, valve etc..... Tape off the electrical connection Run your tank vent to a suitable location, I run mine down to the skid plate. I also have removed the ball check valve in the cap so that the tank can vent properly when it gets hot. If you are riding in a lot of mud and water, you may want to terminate the cap vent up on the frame where the other bikes do. I don't like leaving it up there b/c when it does vent, it spooges all down the frame tube.

This should eliminate your backfiring problem, as this same fix was posted in another thread a while back. I know that unplugging the valve will not throw a code in the computer.
 
Gargoyle said:
Two questions.

I think this hose snakes thru the frame and attaches to the gas tank cap. Can I cut that hose and pull it all the way out?

canister002-1.jpg


Is this where the plug goes? If so, my plug is threaded and the opening isn't. And my plug seems a bit too big to fit in there? Help!?!

canister003-1.jpg

I'm interested in using this area (left fender well under number plate) for storange.
Is it OK to remove everything in there?
 
Hey Die Bergie, Gargoyles bike is the FE 570S model, the S on the end means that it is street legal , if your bike is an FE 570 without the S then you will not have any smog stuff on it :D
 
WantOne said:
I'm interested in using this area (left fender well under number plate) for storange.
Is it OK to remove everything in there?
Yes. Follow the instructions DaleEO posted above.

It fixed the backfiring on my 570S. And you have that space under the number plate freed up too.
 

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