scrapveiw said:the berg is alive! it runs fine and the vibration from the engine , if anything is less than it was originally , it does seem a little more torquey than it was before and less violent but this is probably due to the half link in the timing chain altering the timing slightly , allthough it could be due to the increased length of the conrod.
but it works and i will keep you informed as to how long it lasts.
regards
scrap[/quote
UPDATE
i have put about 15 hours running on the berg and all seems well,
i can't believe the amount of torque i have gained.
scrap.
Joined Jun 2007
4K Posts | 1K+
south east WA Australia
hi scrapview,
nice work. now theres 15 hours on it: how much did the end float change?
I've always thought if the crank is pressed together properly and not so skewiff that it needs a lot of tweaking then it shoudn't move much on the pin
but they do move on the new bikes during inital running. how did you go?
regards
nice work. now theres 15 hours on it: how much did the end float change?
I've always thought if the crank is pressed together properly and not so skewiff that it needs a lot of tweaking then it shoudn't move much on the pin
but they do move on the new bikes during inital running. how did you go?
regards
not checked the end float yet , but it was 6 thou when i built it ,
it was about 4mm before i stripped it down and making lots of strange noises lol.
i don't think that the pin moves , i think it is more likely to be the mains settling down into the casings and the bearings bedding the balls/rollers in , then you have to take into account how hot or cold the engine is because alloy expands faster and more than the steel crank , so in effect you have more play when the engine is hot due to expansion.
i will put a few more hours on it then recheck the end float and let you know.
regards
scrap
it was about 4mm before i stripped it down and making lots of strange noises lol.
i don't think that the pin moves , i think it is more likely to be the mains settling down into the casings and the bearings bedding the balls/rollers in , then you have to take into account how hot or cold the engine is because alloy expands faster and more than the steel crank , so in effect you have more play when the engine is hot due to expansion.
i will put a few more hours on it then recheck the end float and let you know.
regards
scrap
bushmechanic said:
i have lost 1 thou clearance when i checked after 20 hours or so of running,
but i am not using the standard issue crank pin.
the pin is from a rover diesel piston and i had 5 thou pinch into the crank webs,
also the ktm bearing is 5mm bigger O/D and 4mm wider so spreads the load on the pin a bit better than the original (in theory lol)
regards
scrap
Joined Jun 2007
4K Posts | 1K+
south east WA Australia
awesome, thats better than I imagined
looks like you improved on the oem effort
5 thou interferance fit doesn't seem that tight but I'm impressed by all accounts
clocked up 20 hours pretty quick too nice one
see you in the next cartoon
regards
Bushie
looks like you improved on the oem effort
5 thou interferance fit doesn't seem that tight but I'm impressed by all accounts
clocked up 20 hours pretty quick too nice one
see you in the next cartoon
regards
Bushie
yeh i like to get out and about on it , its fully road legal so i even choose it over my car for running around on .my webs also butt straight up to the bearing insert , maybe this has had some effect?
but i don't know ? i don't know anyone who has been daft enough to try this before. :roll:
at worst it will all go horribly wrong and explode into several thousand pieces :cry:
i was going to put some pics on of the spacer plate , conrod ,1/2 link ,the bearing insert i used and the old rod and pin , but i don't seem to be able to upload the pics.
will keep trying though!
regards
scrap
some pics .
note the worn out pin and the wear mark 4/5s of the way up the con rod ,
this is where the con rod had been rubbing on the inner crank webs due to excessive end float in the crank and rod.
that was the strange clinking sound i heard every now and then at tick-over.
regards
scrap
note the worn out pin and the wear mark 4/5s of the way up the con rod ,
this is where the con rod had been rubbing on the inner crank webs due to excessive end float in the crank and rod.
that was the strange clinking sound i heard every now and then at tick-over.
regards
scrap
Hey Scrap, I wasn't able to download your file. I did notice that you have a "gallery" set up. Can you put your pictures there?
:? yeh if i could work out how to get them on there its a bit beyond me :? ,
has anyone else managed to veiw the pdf ? or is it a non runner,
NEIL E do you have acrobat reader installed? adobe reader?
you can right click on it then download to desktop and open it there , i could not veiw it on a friends pc , but i could when i saved it to his desktop, hope that helps.
regards
scrap
its a bit beyond me :? ,has anyone else managed to veiw the pdf ? or is it a non runner,
NEIL E do you have acrobat reader installed? adobe reader?
you can right click on it then download to desktop and open it there , i could not veiw it on a friends pc , but i could when i saved it to his desktop, hope that helps.
regards
scrap
Did the save as, worked fine. Interesting spacer plate. Rather amazing side play to get that much rod wear.
Those mains were really moving back and forth. Did you loctite them or make sleeves for the cases?
Those mains were really moving back and forth. Did you loctite them or make sleeves for the cases?
ah yes the spacer was a bit of a rush job, strictly functional lol .
i actually shot/bead blasted the casing where the bearings sit , this makes the surface grow a bit ,loctited the bearings in place , i think it will hold this time
regards
scrap
i actually shot/bead blasted the casing where the bearings sit , this makes the surface grow a bit ,loctited the bearings in place , i think it will hold this time
regards
scrap
Joined Jun 2001
1K Posts | 0+
Pasadena Ca.
scrapveiw said:ah yes the spacer was a bit of a rush job, strictly functional lol .
i actually shot/bead blasted the casing where the bearings sit , this makes the surface grow a bit ,loctited the bearings in place , i think it will hold this time
regards
scrap
Which loctite did you use?
Joe
green bearing lock 642 rings a bell, same as what we use for automotive manual gearboxes, i can give you the exact product number tomorrow.
regards
scrap
regards
scrap
joe it looks like you already know your loctites would you agree on 642 for the job :wink:
regards
scrap
Joined Jun 2001
1K Posts | 0+
Pasadena Ca.
scrapveiw said:
would you agree on 642 for the job :wink:
regards
scrap
Scrap,
No I would use 620, which has a much higher strength and maintains that over the temperatures we are talking about in the engine cases.
Consider curing it at temperature so it will still be in compression at engine operating temperture (100 C). None of these do well in tension, mainly good in shear and compression.
I just looked at both of the specs more closely, and I would say they are closer than I remembered in strength, but I would still use the 620 if I was doing it. I would also use the 7649 Activatorfor the strongest result.
Joe
thanks for the info joe, the loctite i use will hold, but if you have found a better one then perhaps i will order some in and give it a go the 642 is the strongest we use and it has'nt let me down yet and in the absence of any stronger stuff in stock .
its's actually designed for bearing carriers in gearboxes , gearboxes don't tend to get that hot and the loctite goes off ok.
i think the stuff i use is rated at 3500 , steel to alloy bond as associated in gearboxes,
and it is rated at 300 degrees , you would have to boil your engine oil to destroy the loctite.
i think 642 and 620 have their own individual Merritt's and as the data shows ,
their ain't much between them .
But you have bought up a good point ,
to some people loctite is loctite and they don't realise that their is more than one type
best regards
scrap
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