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5 inch rim question

Joined Oct 2007
35 Posts | 0+
Stratford upon Avon UK
I have an 04 FS650 with 5 inch rear rim fitted. The bike is due for an MOT test this month and was wondering how sympathetic testers are to the chain rubbing on the tyre. The tyres are 17/160/60 Michelin PilotSport and i guess i will have to live with the problem but hoping it is not going to fail. I was considering an non 'O' ring chain as it may be slightly narrower. The rear sprock is only a couple of mm away from the swinging arm so no room to manouver.
Anyone had any proplems with MOt test?

http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s286 ... artyre.jpg

http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s286 ... rtyre1.jpg

Thanks,

Mark
 
My son had a similar problem on his supermoto'd KX125 and he had to get the wheel "dished" so that the rim was biassed away from the chain by an additional couple of mm. I have 150 BT090 fitted to my rear wheek and have probably up to 10mm clearance.
 
Move rim couple of mm away from the chain. With this method i use 5,5 inch rim without problem . The tyre are 170 /17 Dunlop , bike HusaberG FC550
 

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Thanks chaps,I was wondering about having the rim pulled over. Do you notice any effect when riding with the wheels effectively out of line?

That is a fat tyre Vaskosi

Regards,
Mark
 
No not with 2 or 3 mil. I suppose if more was required it may be a problem. It looks as though the chain has really taken the edge off the tyre. Not sure if ,even with the wheel dished to provide more clearance, it will pass the MOT with a tyre like that. Perhaps best to check with a friendly MOT place before booking it in.
 
it's not just a case of moving the wheel sideways but also a slight adjustment in angle so that the rear still follows the front, ok? this is where you get your space. i suggest you go to elaborate lengths to make sure that the wheels are PERFECTLY in line (even now) so you know what you're up against.

it is rubbing heavily at present!

if the chain is already hitting the inside of the frame you have little uption but to have new offset wheel spacers made that shift the wheel to the left.

regards

Taffy
 
Just a suggestion, but my 5 " rim on my 06 FS is a very tight fit with a 160/60 Pilot Power and it req'd me dropping a tooth on the C.S. to get the chain slack to pull the wheel back in the swingarm to get the clearance I needed.

The arm was the problem for me not the chain

Might be something to look at ..

Mark
 
Petorius said:

Hey Mark,

From your photo you have got loads of clearance between chain and rear tyre - it would not do that kind of damage. I think you need to have a look at any nuts or bolts protruding from the swingarm towards the tyres. Have a really careful look at the bolts that hold the lower chain guide in place and I think you will have found your culprit :wink:.

Simon
 
When we ride with a 5.50" wide rim we have the tire protcted by a metal bar with some rubber on.

On the photo you can see the carbon guide i made for guiding the chain. just for the expo bike but the function is the same.
On the race bikes we just bolt on a metal piece that we line with som rubber hose, it have some wear but we replace it when its worn out.

//Thomas
 

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I took some measurements last night and at the risk of posting the most boring message ever the results were that the tyre as it is now is 163mm and suspect it was 166mm or thereabouts when new. I have around 9.5mm between the tyre and swinging arm on the chain side 6mm left side. 3mm clearance between the swinging arm and sprocket. Chain is 20.5mm maximum width. In theory I guess I need about another 1mm to be clear as it is although I suspect there will always be some chain slap. I will probably bring the sprocket out 1mm and do some tyre shaving.
The photos I took were not very clear but is definitely the chain causing the rub.
I have seen photos of all sorts of elaborate chain guides on SMs and hope to avoid having to fit one although I did see one using a chain roller mounted horizontally on the swinging arm which seemed quite a nice solution.
I bought the bike with the tyres/talon hubs/exel rims already fitted and I think the real solution for me is to pay extra attention to real world tyre widths when buying replacements as Husaben made a good observation about tyre widths varying from tyre model in another post. It would seem he has a good point. Failing that fit a 150.

Thanks for your input

Mark
 
Petorius said:
I bought the bike with the tyres/talon hubs/exel rims already fitted

That'll probably be the source of your problem then. The oem hubs and 5" rim are fine even with only a few mm between chain and tyre edge.

Simon
 
Petorius said:
Thanks chaps,I was wondering about having the rim pulled over. Do you notice any effect when riding with the wheels effectively out of line?

That is a fat tyre Vaskosi

Regards,
Mark

We have had some rims from Talon/excel that was not centered, we just adjust them and then the chain was not touching the tire.
We use the Pre-cut goldspeed 160/60-17, and it never comes near the chain.
On the 165/56-17 its close but not a problem.
There must be a reson why your wheel is like this.
I dont think moving the hub closer to the left is the solution, and then have a spacer.
Better check the rim first.
/Thomas
 
I have a Pilot power and it fits fine, however i did get a pilot sport fitted and it rubbed on the chain and swingarm! The pilot sport is aprox 10mm wider than a pilot power, dont know how that can be because they were both 160/60/17's
 
160 Avon Distanzia actually measures 166mm wide and fits with the 5" wheel almost all the way forward. No chain rubbing so far, but the tire has only at most 2mm clearance on either side!

The 160 pilot power is narrower at about 160 or 162mm (if I recall correctly)
 
Fitting a front sprocket off a TE/TC Husqvarna might give you a bit more chain clearance off the tyre.

The Berg sprockets are 12mm thick thru the centre and have an equal sized boss protruding out each side. The Husky ones are 11mm thick and the boss is all on one side - ie the other side is flat. The splines are the same.

If you fit a 1mm shim washer onto the sprocket shaft, then the Husky sprocket on with the boss inwards it will run the chain about 2.5mm further out from the engine.

You do have to check to make sure the chain still clears the inside of the frame downtube.

This arrangement allowed me to shoehorn a 17 tooth front sprocket onto my '98 FE600E since it helped keep the chain off the engine case.
 

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