Here are the first parts I picked up for it. A guy was selling them used on Ebay. I think they came off a 530EXC or something like that. He claimed they were too stiff for him. 
And don't worry, I'll strip off that ugly orange before it goes on the Berg.
.52kg/mm fork springs and Racetech P30 progressive shock spring:
And don't worry, I'll strip off that ugly orange before it goes on the Berg. .52kg/mm fork springs and Racetech P30 progressive shock spring:
The primary goal is to disassemble everything, clean and grease, and reassemble. It's in great shape, but it is a little dirty.
There are also some modifications I'd like to make involving suspension and ergonomics.
Finally ordered a bunch of parts tonight! Rings, gaskets and seals for the engine and front rim and tires for the chassis. The heavy fork springs are installed with new oil, but I still have to get the shock spring powder coated yellow.
This also happened. Nothing too crazy, just smoothing the transitions and casting flaws:
This also happened. Nothing too crazy, just smoothing the transitions and casting flaws:
I wasn't planning on it. Is there a problem with the stock springs?
Joined Jun 2007
4K Posts | 1K+
south east WA Australia
some people have them break at around 200 -250 hrs, others get 30 000 km+ out of them.
many to choose from, Kibblewhite offer the best set, they often go for $160 new on ebay
specs here
http://husaberg.org/mechanical/10680-all-about-valve-springs-nice-pics.html
might as well do the cam follower bearings at the same time KTM PN# 590 36 061 090 they about $21 from munn
many to choose from, Kibblewhite offer the best set, they often go for $160 new on ebay
specs here
http://husaberg.org/mechanical/10680-all-about-valve-springs-nice-pics.html
might as well do the cam follower bearings at the same time KTM PN# 590 36 061 090 they about $21 from munn
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I might wait until 100 hours to do more work to it. This 45 hour teardown isn't really a rebuild, more of an assessment of what I've got. I'm trying not to spend too much on it all at once
The bore has some scars in it. It must have pulled in a few grains of sand at some point. I touched it lightly with a hone to make sure there were no high spots:
Also, the piston went out today to Line2Line Inc for their skirt coating:
Line2Line - Slick CC
It's supposed to reduce skirt clearance to "0" and for $35 it seemed like a good deal.
I believe once I tighten the skirt clearance with the coating and install new rings, it will be happy for another 50 hours. Then I can look into a new piston, liner, valvesprings etc.
For the record, here's the list of parts on order:
Engine:
Gaskets
Water pump seal
Shift shaft seal
Kickstart seal
Output shaft seal
(all the oil seals were seeping)
Timing chain link
Piston rings
Valve cover vent tube (it was cracked)
Oil filter
Spark plug (DCPR8EIX)
Tires:
Full Bore M37 110/100-18 and 80/100-21
(I can't believe how expensive Dunlops have become. These are cheap and have good reviews.)
Front wheel:
Excel ICS408
(look closely at the picture in the first post and notice the large dent in the stock wheel)
Bar risers:
Enduro Engineering #23-002
Grips:
Renthal half waffle medium compound
I am also considering buying a jet kit from Taffy. It seems to flame out easily at low speeds.
Pardon the color of the bike, but this is an illustration of its favorite time to flame out:
Will a jet kit help? It already has a quick adjust fuel screw and a Boyesen accel pump cover. Maybe some fine adjustments are all that is needed.
The bore has some scars in it. It must have pulled in a few grains of sand at some point. I touched it lightly with a hone to make sure there were no high spots:
Also, the piston went out today to Line2Line Inc for their skirt coating:
Line2Line - Slick CC
It's supposed to reduce skirt clearance to "0" and for $35 it seemed like a good deal.
I believe once I tighten the skirt clearance with the coating and install new rings, it will be happy for another 50 hours. Then I can look into a new piston, liner, valvesprings etc.
For the record, here's the list of parts on order:
Engine:
Gaskets
Water pump seal
Shift shaft seal
Kickstart seal
Output shaft seal
(all the oil seals were seeping)
Timing chain link
Piston rings
Valve cover vent tube (it was cracked)
Oil filter
Spark plug (DCPR8EIX)
Tires:
Full Bore M37 110/100-18 and 80/100-21
(I can't believe how expensive Dunlops have become. These are cheap and have good reviews.)
Front wheel:
Excel ICS408
(look closely at the picture in the first post and notice the large dent in the stock wheel)
Bar risers:
Enduro Engineering #23-002
Grips:
Renthal half waffle medium compound
I am also considering buying a jet kit from Taffy. It seems to flame out easily at low speeds.
Pardon the color of the bike, but this is an illustration of its favorite time to flame out:
Will a jet kit help? It already has a quick adjust fuel screw and a Boyesen accel pump cover. Maybe some fine adjustments are all that is needed.
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Joined Jun 2007
4K Posts | 1K+
south east WA Australia
there are a few different jet kits
and if you like to fiddle the honda NKBT is a pretty good needle
I made one a bit like an nkbv
http://husaberg.org/mechanical/17998-bushmechanic-mongrel-628-trailbike-13.html
it helped close the transient lean spot going from a steady 1/8th to WOT where the accel pump wasn't operative.
the honda needles are about $20
http://husaberg.org/mechanical/17998-bushmechanic-mongrel-628-trailbike-14.html
and if you like to fiddle the honda NKBT is a pretty good needle
I made one a bit like an nkbv
http://husaberg.org/mechanical/17998-bushmechanic-mongrel-628-trailbike-13.html
it helped close the transient lean spot going from a steady 1/8th to WOT where the accel pump wasn't operative.
the honda needles are about $20
http://husaberg.org/mechanical/17998-bushmechanic-mongrel-628-trailbike-14.html
Joined Nov 2001
17K Posts | 774+
Ely, England
Hi JG
you can buy a jetting kit without the PS in it which will reduce the cost a little.
the boyesen quick shot is a waste of money but no matter how many times you say it people don't believe you.
the needle in my kit has 4 angles to it so where as a single needle made by keihin may be as good in one area, my needle combines the best of them all.
don't use a JD kit though....
as for the dual spring kit, my kit is softer than the factory DVSK but not as soft as the Kibblewhites. but you get instructions and support.
I tried the KWs first here and they are really good, I did strip an engine with KWs and see some marks. I'd be interested to hear if anyone else has had this?
regards
Taffy
you can buy a jetting kit without the PS in it which will reduce the cost a little.
the boyesen quick shot is a waste of money but no matter how many times you say it people don't believe you.
the needle in my kit has 4 angles to it so where as a single needle made by keihin may be as good in one area, my needle combines the best of them all.
don't use a JD kit though....
as for the dual spring kit, my kit is softer than the factory DVSK but not as soft as the Kibblewhites. but you get instructions and support.
I tried the KWs first here and they are really good, I did strip an engine with KWs and see some marks. I'd be interested to hear if anyone else has had this?
regards
Taffy
Joined Sep 2007
782 Posts | 291+
???
Joined May 2010
592 Posts | 247+
San Francisco, California
Yes. The conicals fail. It's not an if question, it's a when question. Some get lucky and the only issue is a spring replacement. Others, well . . . bent valves is the least of their problems. There's little to no warning. It just goes. Mine went at idle while just after an oil change so I was in a good place to shut it down fast and diagnose the problem. I've known others that were not so lucky.
Joined Jun 2007
4K Posts | 1K+
south east WA Australia
to clarify taffys claim here the difference in force between the KTM oem DVSK set and his set is due the thickness of the lower spring seat not the spring rate.
the actual springs are for all practical purposes the same rate as they have the same coil count overall length and wire diameter.
the oem lower spring seat is a quality hardened steel seat of adequate thickness while taffys supplied a 0.1mm thick shim to go under his springs.
the difference in force from doing this is 4lbs or approx 5%
the kibblewhites are about the same price as taffys and much much better, the springs themselves weigh less as well as being a much lower spring rate, the upper spring seat is titanium, they can handle more valve lift before coil bind and most importantly they are short enough to be installed at a length that actually reduces the forces over the oem conicals.
support? that's another load of bollocks, I asked him why his springs I was installing were too long to reduce seated force over OEM and got told I was being far too anal.
marks in a kibble white valve sprung engine ? never heard of it. what marks are they old **** ? ball pein hammer marks from disassembly LOL
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Joined Jun 2007
4K Posts | 1K+
south east WA Australia
Joined Jun 2007
4K Posts | 1K+
south east WA Australia
never heard of it on the inermnets
also FWIW the KTM RFS engines don't have an issue with their conical springs that came out after 2002 - 2003 (same part number as ours) not sure why but they do have a 1mm oil jet spraying cooling lube into the rocker cover.
since the most common spring to go in the bergs is the RHS exhaust valve you have to wonder if it is temperature related.
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