This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Which One ? 2011 FS 570 or FE 570

Davo said:
This really is a "does my bum look big in this" post. DRZ400 or DRZ650 end of story. Let this post die. Don't buy a Husaberg.

I started this thread and have not broken any forum rules.

Nobody is forcing you to read it. Move along and annoy someone else. :p

I have owned a Honda 650 which is basically the same type of bike as DRZ650. No thanks to either one. Those bikes are so far behind the Husaberg, why would you compare them...

Jon
 
Taffy said:
the enduro caliper is enough for road use. everything is there for emergencies. if they can road race bikes with only one single front piston then they can defo road ride with 2 pistons (that's what the FE has).
regardsTaffy

Piston diameter makes the difference. It is not as simple as counting the number of pistons.

Jon
 
If your limited on time to work on switching back and forth and can afford it, I would bike one of each. I have gone that route on previous bikes and it seems that when you want the dirt tires and wheels on it, it is set up for supermoto and visa versa.

Good Luck with your decision.

I just picked up a new 2010 FE570 a few weeks ago and have it plated. :cheers:
 
Thanks to everyone for your help / ideas.

I just downloaded the microfiche or pdf version for both 2011 FS and FE 570 and compared every nut and bolt on both bikes. ya, you would have thought somebody on here would have already done that. They are not as different as one may think. They may be set up different, but the components are almost the same.

I can buy either 2011 FS or FE 570 for the same price.

I won't go over every item but try to cover some of the important differences. Suspension uses basically the same parts but different springs. ( dealer has a choice on different springs depending on rider set up when ordering the bike so you may want to order vs paying for springs afterwards ) Also, just because you rode a SM and thought it was stiffer than the FE you tested, doesn't mean the internal valve was different. Just set up different. The SM may use a different clicker adjuster from 2004 and the FE may use one from 2008 but they serve the same purpose which is selecting a setting. They switched to different dust seal manufacturer and guide seal the best I could tell on FE but I have not read of any problems with the older seals. Some parts on FE/FS were from older models and some were from newer models, seemed to balance out if it makes a difference what model year the part was originally for. They listed 2 different model years of the same part in a couple places so maybe your bike came with that part from 2009 and your buddies came with 2004. All in all I could not find different suspension parts that would change the set up options, only the travel based on adjusting tube length. If anyone can prove there is a difference between the two other than springs which you should change for rider set up, please let me know. 3/4" less travel on front and 1" less travel on rear FS model is not going to hinder somebody play riding in the dirt. There has to be a reason why they reduced the FS travel and if your converting from FE to FS you may want to find out. But if your more about dirt riding then get the FE.

The triple clamp on FS is larger than on FE but will the average rider notice a difference ? The FS uses larger front brake so the caliper and axle clamp bracket on forks are different. If you get the FE, an adapter can be added to extend the caliper out for larger brake disc if riding on street/track. If buying FS, you would be better off using a 310mm brake disc on dirt wheel set because you can't make the bracket shorter on FS without removing from fork tube and installing a different axle clamp and bracket like FE type.The FS brake is going to be stronger and provide better feedback but if your just play riding the bike in street form the FE may have enough brake or could be upgraded. I priced just the FS caliper and nothing else for almost $700 U.S. on the KTM website. Makes me wonder if the FS wouldn't be a better choice since I'm not racing dirt just because I can get the expensive brake set up for same price. Less chance of rotor damage just playing in the dirt and I would still have the better brakes for both riding styles. Just remember if your doing 80% dirt and not really needing the FS brakes, your still riding with extra weight up front. Not much but rebuild kits will cost more also if you keep the bike long term. Some dirt riders have upgraded to the bigger brakes because they like the better feedback. I expect they ride more open high speed areas vs tight single trails. Depends what you like!

The FS front brake lever, res. and caliper are all same as street bikes and the FE front is same as standard dirt bike. the entire rear brake set up is exactly the same on both bikes.

Wheels obviously are different. If you plan to ride on the street a lot the FS is already set up with cush drive and brakes for that. Picking up a complete set of dirt wheels that don't need the cush drive may be a little cheaper or you could go cush drive and use components from FS wheel set. Seems if you start off with FE and set up for street, the cost may be a little higher if buying new. But there are always deals to be found if not in a hurry.

My goal is to set everything up so all I have to do is drop out the one wheel set and install the next with same brake disc. and chain. Turn the clickers and ride. It may not be perfect, but I am not racing and the few seconds difference in handling won't matter. If doing a special track day or dirt ride I would take the time to perfect the set up if needed but for general use, it should be fine with a 565 cc engine. With the wind hitting me head on during street rides, I won't be planning any high speed trips. That gets old real fast,in my opinion.

If going from FE to FS setup, the wheel is offset and you may need to space the exhaust out a bit depending on wheel size. Going from FS to FE the wheel is not as wide. That is why the FS comes with exhaust can spacers that the FE doesn't have. Another minor difference...

Fender and fork guards are different, graphics and color is different and if riding in mud you kind of need the longer front fender so you would want to have both either way if converting. They both use fender spacers from different past years but look to serve the same purpose. This is what I was referring to about different year parts but they do the same thing.

That is pretty much it. The rest of the bike is exactly the same. Give or take a zip tie here or there. FS uses a 5mm longer exhaust bolt because of the spacer to move exhaust farther out but it is the same size bolt just longer. If you were converting the FE to FS set up, you would have to buy the longer bolts and spacers.

Bottom line is you should tune the suspension for each rider so that really doesn't matter either way. Your going to spend about the same on wheels if you shop around but maybe a little more on FS style wheels if you start with FE.

The bigger more expensive front brake is really the deciding factor if you plan to do double duty with the bike. I know there are play track days in my future and trips to the mountains so the FE would need an upgrade to make me happy. I have no plans to race dirt any more and therefore feel I can keep from damaging the expensive FS brake setup while still enjoying better brakes. If that changes, a disc guard is still cheaper then converting FS to FE style brakes.

Hope this helps narrow the which one question down a little. And if anyone can offer info that proves there are other differences not listed on pdf, please let me know.

There should be some manufacturer discounts over the next few months before the 2012 models hit. Leave me one!

Jon
 
Davo said:
This really is a "does my bum look big in this" post. DRZ400 or DRZ650 end of story. Let this post die. Don't buy a Husaberg.

do you know what? when I saw that someone had added to this thread (notice to my email) my heart sank. I couldn't believe that this thread was still going....

regards

Taffy
 
I Wanted to offer up a great article on suspension tuning. A lot more suspension info can be found here also. Since the major difference between the FS and FE which most people know little about is suspension, you may be interested in this article. http://www.e-dirt.co.za/forumnew/forum_ ... ion-basics

The wheels can easily be changed between street / dirt and the larger brake on FS may be better all the way around ( if you install a disc guard ) which leaves the suspension.

Depending on each individual rider and style the first thing to do is make sure you have the correct springs, preload, oil level and shims. The shims are the last thing you want to worry about and you have to know what you like to get it right. So does it really matter which springs the FS or FE come with ? No, since you need the correct springs for you. (It would be nice if they were correct but odds are not in your favor considering.) Your setting the pre-load for you and then oil level for you. Doesn't matter which bike you buy. Now the only thing remaining is shims ( basically ) The FS may have stiffer shims but maybe you prefer this type of suspension. Suspension is a very personal thing and nobody can tell you what is best for you,they can only get you close based on what you tell them. So many variables in terrain and you have to make changes to your suspension to adjust for those variables. One riding area may be completely different than the other. This thread now offers the type of info I was looking for when I came here and since I didn't find it, decided to offer what I could to others.

If you are considering setting the bike up for both street and dirt. I think the FS would be the better choice. Some say buy the FE if riding dirt at all because of the suspension. This makes me wonder if they are considering all the variables! Some riders have a very hard time with the height of FE and even with low seat would do better on a lower bike. Maybe the FS can offer a little help here. The more I learned about these 2 bikes the more I understood why the FS is the better choice for me riding both street/dirt. If only riding one or the other, obviously pick the bike for that. I really think the biggest attraction to this bike for many is the dual purpose option. If many have failed with this set up in the past I feel it was because they didn't know enough about suspension set up or were discouraged by dealers wanting to sell 2 bikes. I have experienced this myself. Oh, but I can make you a deal on XYZ street bike and the FE would make a better dirt bike. If I were buying one bike for dirt only,it wouldn't be the FE570. It would be the 390 or 450, something closer to 250 ( 2 stroke feel ) the only reason I am interested in this bike is dual purpose use. It won't make a great street bike and it won't make the best dirt bike but will offer both in a better ride then the DRZ and alike.

Good Luck! Hope I helped more than I hurt the couple who opposed this thread.

Jon
 
Jon,
you know, most people wouldn't externalise this sort of thinking.

Seriously, make your decision and buy one! If you cannot decide which way you want to make your compromise, why not just buy BOTH. If you bought bikes a few years old, the cost would be about the same...

If you must have the latest shiny toy, what's the worst thing that could happen if you buy the 'wrong' model? You could always sell it and buy the other. You'll lose a little money, but at least then you'll know you've made the right choice, eh?

If it makes you happy, please carry on with your monologue, but don't be surprised if and when the comments or replies go a little 'downhill'. I've tried to be polite, but I'm sure many others will be a little more direct.

Good luck with your decision.

Cheers... Paul
 
Do you have to shim the front wheel when mounting the dirt wheels on the 2011 FS?
On the -05 to -08 models you have to shim the front wheel 4-6 millimeters away from the brake caliper to stop the wheel from hitting the caliper. Naturally you have to shim the brake disc as well so it will remain in the centre of the caliper. (wheel wouldn't roll at all whithout it)

And yes it feels different between a left and a right turn when the wheel is shimed off centre, some can live with it others can't. :p


regards

/Nick
 
Davo said:
This really is a "does my bum look big in this" post. DRZ400 or DRZ650 end of story. Let this post die. Don't buy a Husaberg.
This is an informative thread. Skip it if you aren't interested in the topic.
 
Ghost said:
Do you have to shim the front wheel when mounting the dirt wheels on the 2011 FS?
On the -05 to -08 models you have to shim the front wheel 4-6 millimeters away from the brake caliper to stop the wheel from hitting the caliper. Naturally you have to shim the brake disc as well so it will remain in the centre of the caliper. (wheel wouldn't roll at all whithout it)

And yes it feels different between a left and a right turn when the wheel is shimed off centre, some can live with it others can't. :p


regards

/Nick
The radial mounted caliper will contact the spokes on a 21" wheel. I have a wheel builder looking into ways around this but we are not optimistic. It appears that a fork swap for offroad would be the simplest approach for me with my FS.

Oh and if my post caused someone's "heart to sink" in sadness that this thread is still alive, :cheers:
 
It is alive!

Jon,

Buy an FS
Buy a new front fender (FE)
Buy a set of 2nd hand KTM wheels 18 or 19 /21
Buy front and rear rotors for your these wheels
Buy a new rear sprocket
Buy a new chain
Buy a 2nd hand KTM front brake set up (caliper to lever, off a dirt bike not a supermoto)
Buy a 2nd hand set of WP forks KTM 2008 or newer (think dirt bike, you do not want the radial brake mount that is on a supermoto fork)
Buy a new WP rear shock, 09 and newer Husaberg (KTM's wont work as the reservoir is clocked in a different location)
Take or send shocks and fork to a professional for tuning.

If you can wrench you can convert full on FS to full on FE in a bit over an hour.

It really is that easy, I know because I've done it. Turn off the computer and get to work! And don't be a puss and wait for the 2011's to go on sale next year, step up and get it done! And when your in the store plunking down retail for the bike ask for the brother-in-law deal on the rear shock, look you're saving money already!

Sh#t or get off the pot as my grandma would like to say.
 
ropedrag,
Your plan is exactly what I'm doing with my FS - pure genius :mrgreen: I was wondering why you suggest a full brake caliper to lever exchange. Is that simply to avoid having to bleed the brakes when switching to the dirt caliper? It makes sense but I want to confirm.
 
A used brake set up can be found for $100 much easier than swapping a caliper durning each conversion. So to answer your question, yes.
 
Well I have certainly found this thread very useful and I am enduring the same internal battle as you! It seems for me the FS will suit more as I would be doing more commuting and dirt will come in the not too distant future, ie. when I can gather the necessary parts for it!

Thanks, Jeremy
 
I decided to take others advice and buy a street bike ( Suzuki SV650 like new with 620 miles at 1/3 the price of new 570 ) which is very close to the Husaberg 570 weight and more cc for the street. This provides me with a fun little streetfighter type sportbike that is ready to go when I am, plus will be much more comfortable on longer rides. I didn't want another liter bike or sport tourer, but something close to the 570 weight. I just didn't see the 570 working out for both street/dirt. Not enough anything for long term street duty. Then factor in the conversion time back and forth after a long day at work... The list of cons were too high. Now I can focus on buying the perfect street legal dirt bike that won't be required to do street duty. My last 4 stroke dirt bike was a 2003 WR450 and I thought it was too heavy for the sand in florida. Dirt roads/trails were fine but sinking and fighting that weight in the sand/single track is a hassle compared to a 2 stroke. I kept picturing that experience with the 570 and then ropedrag made it clear just how much work/money was going to be involved to use the 570 for both. Add the total price tag of over $10k for a freaking dirt bike vs paying 1/3 of that for a like brand new SV650 with 620 miles on it and I started to wonder if I had lost my mind even considering spending that much for what I was getting in return. It would have made a nice toy for the mountains or playing around town but that is where it stops. The SV can do that and much more with plenty of aftermarket stuff out there. Hell, I could even make it a comfortable sport tour bike with some aftermarket stuff. I honestly don't know that the 570 will make a good street or dirt bike, maybe just a better dual sport dirt bike than most.

This also bought me a little more time to make a decision since I now have a new toy to set up while waiting for the 2012's to be announced. Maybe KTM will do something since the Husaberg dealers are really too far away. I can find a steal of a deal on a used KTM if I want. Most dealers act like they have the Husaberg market cornered because of the limited comp. Ya, it's a nice bike but not that nice.

Thanks taffy,ropedrag for snapping me out of it. I don't know what I was thinking to consider this... Sorry Husaberg!

Good Luck!

Jon
 
Yes, I'd have to say that the berg definitely wasn't for you for many reasons. Enjoy!
 
FS 570 mods

Hi there I have a 2011 Fs 570 thats been successfully modified for dual use
i have used my standard 17"/5" rear wheel with the cush drive and fitted a 140/80-17 metzler Karoo (T) giving me almost the same overall tyre diameter as a standard Fe. its a big block knobly tyre that is great on most things apart from wet clay on the tarmac it holds on good when leaning right over and has a nice controllable slide when it reaches its limit. i have found this set up probably not faster but more fun than the slicks it came with.
on the front i ordered a SM hub to suit the axle/disc of the FS and a standard motox rear rim 19"/2.5" i think. after a bit of messing around i figured out the right spoke set and laced it up. initially i was running a rear moto tyre on the front which was Boss on the gravel and off road but pretty shaky and loose on the road now it has a 110/80-19" metzler Karoo 3.
as for suspension adjusted it as soft as possible and its a pretty good compromise for every day use.
now its the most fun get on at home and ride anywhere bike i could come up with! it will do 100mph on the road easy and its bloody good fun offroad.
with a 3.5mm disc spacer and some custom hub spacers i have managed to retain the standard Fs front brake set up. so all it cost me for the hole job was a custom front wheel, spacers and tires
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: 2 people

Register CTA

Register on Husaberg Forum! This sidebar will go away, and you will see fewer ads.

Recent Discussions