which handlebar (or riser)?

Does yours have the 28mm 1-1/8 inch fat bars or the 20mm 7/8 inch variety?

Without using bar risers you can get a" Pastrana" Bend in the renthals I think which are quite high for getting your legs through the bars when doing tricks. I had a set of risers made cause i wasnt going to spend $160 on crappy bits of alloy washers. Materials cost me $3.20 & the machining was $100. Check my gallery. I'd put a link here if I knew how :roll:

should have a fat bar,my 99 fe400e did.Get a pair of the moose CR-HI bend ...

wildman said:

Without using bar risers you can get a" Pastrana" Bend in the renthals I think which are quite high for getting your legs through the bars when doing tricks. I had a set of risers made cause i wasnt going to spend $160 on crappy bits of alloy washers. Materials cost me $3.20 & the machining was $100. Check my gallery. I'd put a link here if I knew how :roll:

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I just ordered a Pastrana bend "Pro Taper" bar. The height is a whopping 4.75 inches. Thanks for the suggestion wildman. They may eliminate the need for bar risers.

http://www.motoworldracing.com/Pro-Taper-Contour-Taperwall-Handlebar-Signature-Bend.html

Per Nsman these risers should fit your bike just fine uwjberg :

http://www.twistedthrottle.com/trade/productview/334/249/




I ordered and received a set of these a few weeks ago. They have one set left so hurry if you want them as I am pretty sure they are no longer produced based on the SW-MOTECH website.

uwjberg said:

thanks husabutt! i just ordered the risers, which is exactly what i was looking for. will the pastrana pro taper fit on the OEM risers? all i have to worry about is the bar diameter, right?

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Yes, the Pastrana bars should bolt right up to the stock hardware with or wthout the risers. You do have the fat bars, right? The reason you should double check is that oftentimes Husabergs will be off one model year on the registration. My 97 600 has the old style 7/8 inch bars (which is correct for the year) but I am sticking with Nsman as his 99 had the 1 1/8 inch bars and he definately knows his stuff.

Good luck standing up in comfort

Just some facts about "high risers" or placing the risers in the most forward position:
first: straight line running of your bike -> feels like running with an almost flat tire, there is a "whopple" around the steering head.
Try a test ride first with and then without risers -> you´ll throw them away immediatly
second: bike looses front end grip , especially in corners, it´will become (very!) hard to hold the inner line.

by thy way: this is a FACT...

Gokai134 said:

Just some facts about "high risers" or placing the risers in the most forward position:
first: straight line running of your bike -> feels like running with an almost flat tire, there is a "whopple" around the steering head.
Try a test ride first with and then without risers -> you´ll throw them away immediatly
second: bike looses front end grip , especially in corners, it´will become (very!) hard to hold the inner line.

by thy way: this is a FACT...

Click to expand...

So these risers won't work?

[quote="nsman".Get a pair of the moose CR-HI bend ...[/quote]

Pbbbffftttt...junk bars :lol: I just took off my stock bars with 1" riser off ,moved the position back one to the second most rearward and put on a set of nsmans moose cr hi's.I found gokai's comment interesting as after I put the risers on it seemed like the front end "castered" around in the slow rough stuff like a wonky shopping cart wheel but I thought it may have just been me.As for the difference,I should know in a few months when the snow disappears

My two cents:

I have the sub mount on my bike for the scott's stabilizer which raises the bars about 1". The sub mount allows you to use the full forward position of the bars if you like, which is where I have my bars set currently. I also have my bars rolled forward as well.

I do alot of desert riding and spend a lot of time on the pegs, so this bar position works out great for me. It also allows me to get the weight over the bars easily and makes turning while standing much easier, and you are able to body english the bike more by being able to move your weight around. It also makes it easier to get up on the tank when sitting for turn entry.

The only thing I've noticed about the height of the bars, is that it does take a bit more effort to keep the bike layed over in a bermed turn. The bike wants to stand up more readily with the taller bars. I guess because you have raised the CG???

Another advantage is that there is room for my leg under the bar when cornering aggressively. And with the ability to get your weight forward, it makes corner entry easier.

Having the bars forward is also nice when climbing a hill as it makes it easier to keep your weight more forward.

Dale

I'm with Dale re bars, I can't ride with standard height ones. What gets you into trouble is having the bar ends, where you hang on, too far forward, or too far back. If you eyeball across the bar ends and they are behind the steering axis, or in front of the fork leg then you will get more kick back and less feel than ideal.

Steve

For what its worth I've tried riding with and without 40mm bar raisers and tried all the different adjustments forward and back.

may not be only for tall riders as I agree totally with Dale and Steve and I'm only 175cm

lower bars were better for rutted tight single track in 1st and 2cnd gear the advantage being from mid corner to exit but the advantage was small. My hands complained profusely after 5 min I guess the sweep back angle needs to be different for the lower height and my short arms.

with the bars up the bike was easier to throw around particulary at high speed and in the air. backing in and sliding out of nice flat peagravel corners at 100 - 140 felt a lot safer with the high bars. high speed beach runs crossing 4wd ruts were a bit suicidal with the low bars too. I find myself 3-4 feet in the air nose down with both feet off the pegs in top gear from time to time, the higher bars inspiring a lot more confidence in the air.

Like steve I found that as long as the bars arn't too far forward or back the height doesn't nescesarilly screw up the handling and for some it improves the bike. I can't ride mine fast without the raisers either.

the only disadvantage seems Like Dale and gokai say is that the bike wants to stand up sooner in the slow corners making it hard to hold the inside line. probably because its harder to apply downward pressure to the bar, like working at a bench thats too high for you. or because there is less weight on the front the whole time? anyone really know why?

If you don't have a mill, aluminium is easily machined with a wood router provided the rate of material removal is low and the cutter not too sharp. the real challenge is getting the hole on centre at both ends so drill it first and go from there. it might grab a bit (the router) so hang on tight and use a blunt cutter. if the aluminium you bought is too short the router guides won't work. if the holes are too big the bars will move after even a slow crash. its somwhere in a post by taffy that you can't buy longer bolts with the right head, he's spot on of course, grind the top of the head down only as much as you need, there wont be much hex head left, I cheated and used a lathe to bring the head thickness down from the back.

regards
Bushie

Bushmechanic, your description of a beach run had me LMAO. On the topic of Bars and risers, I am 6'2" tall and I run a bar riser (do not remember how much, 1" I believe) and CR- HI pro tapers, risers set centered, I also have the tall seat. I agree with Dale and Steve, I have never had an issue with handling because of the bar risers, in fact this set up has been very good for me. I don't have any issues in berms either, I use a lot of pressure on the tank with my outside knee and my bike stays in the berm no problem, it is solid in the off camber stuff and no issues in the rough stuff (no steering damper either). To say that a bike set-up is "fact", is way off base, it is a "fact" that, this set-up didn't work for that rider, but we are all little different from each other now aren't we? So do what works for you, a little experimentation may turn an awkward bike into a magic carpet ride.

Ballards do a KTM/Berg kit that has 3 heights of risers aqnd the bolts to go with them for about $80. I can't find a link on their web site, but they are in their current catalogue which is attached to this month's ADB. I found them useful as it is an easy way to experiment with alternative heights. I use them with the BRP sub mount and high Reikon bars with a flat bend, ie stuff all sweep. pic here http://www.husaberg.org/index.php?set_a ... _photo.php

Steve

Bend bars

BendBerg said:

Bushmechanic, your description of a beach run had me LMAO. On the topic of Bars and risers, I am 6'2" tall and I run a bar riser (do not remember how much, 1" I believe) and CR- HI pro tapers, risers set centered, I also have the tall seat. I agree with Dale and Steve, I have never had an issue with handling because of the bar risers, in fact this set up has been very good for me. I don't have any issues in berms either, I use a lot of pressure on the tank with my outside knee and my bike stays in the berm no problem, it is solid in the off camber stuff and no issues in the rough stuff (no steering damper either). To say that a bike set-up is "fact", is way off base, it is a "fact" that, this set-up didn't work for that rider, but we are all little different from each other now aren't we? So do what works for you, a little experimentation may turn an awkward bike into a magic carpet ride.

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Hi Bend berg,

Thats a good tip that pressure on the tank been hanging off the bike to the inside a bit too like a road bike probably was the casue of a few light falls. the bar raisers have to put up with a lot of punishment in a fall, mine were soft aluminium and there a bit sad after a bit of bouncing. was going to make more out of aircraft ally and bolt them together like steves ones, with two bolts instead of one long one through the middle.

instead I just carefully bent the maguras 40mm higher, seems like the go and is a lot lighter. only did it cause they needed straigtening anyway so.. why not.

BTW I thought that a "fact" was the thin bit of skin between the muck hole and the f##& hole; when that breaks you are in the Shi#$. THAT IS A FACT.

Regards

Bushie

Glad to be of some help there Bush! Thank you for redefining "fact", makes one wounder why nature put the playground next to the sewer don't it?

I'm 5'8". Standing straight on the pegs my arms are locked out straight. What height of riser youd u suggest if any. I just mess about on MX tracks and greenlaning.

Also for a stock item in UK any suggestions - do the orange bike bits fit??

Anything to look out for as NOT to get or do re risers.

No comments...no views...no opinions.....must be on the KTM site!!!!!