What Oil to use ?

I have read many posts on this site regarding what type and brand of oil is the best for Bergs. I have a 03 501 and Iam currently using Amsoil 10-40.
I noticed during my last oil change that the oil ran out like water and was very dark in color. This made me question this oil for this bike. I know Dello 400 has been recommended, but Husaberg recommends a full synthetic. Any help with this confusion would be appreciated.

Thanks EuroEnduro

when i get aroun to doing the oil change (havent used it enough to for it need a oil change) i will be using putoline oil offroad 4+ and thats what the dcr racing team use

Thanks for the reply rosey, is that a full synthetic oil?
EuroEnduro

rosey

given that DCR's engines have a reputation for going bang-is that a recommendation or a death sentance?

regards

Taffy

I just changed mine. I got a good deal on a liter of Maxima 5W50 full synthetic, $5. couldn't pass up that offer. The guy I bought the bike from says he has a few bottles left over that he'll give me. Free works too. Check out the Maxima, it seams to work good.

I use Shell Rotella, or Chevron Delo400, whichever is cheaper at Wal-Mart.

I use Delo 400, but I change it HOT immediately after each days ride. I usually ride 90 to 100 miles, so it is cheap insurance for me, dumping the engine/gear train wear material with the oil.

Joe

Thanks for the replys. Do you change the oil filter with every oil change under normal riding conditions?

I did the unthinkable for a male, at least according to my wife, and read my manual. Says a 5-50 Synthetic or 10-50 Synthetic but no higher than 10 on the minimum (cold) rating. Suspect the filter can't pass enough heavy oil when cold is why they want you to stay with a cold rating no more than 10. Plenty of people do use inexpensive Delo 15/40 without problems though. If you didn't ride when it is really cold, I can't see the problem with the 15 on the bottom end. Of course Husaberg doesn't know what you are going to do when they make recomendations (you may live in Alaska and ride in snow) , so they cover all bases and say 10. The hot rating of 50 applies to the motor's requirements at operating temps. The 40 must be ok at operating temps, as plenty of people us the 15/40 without problems. I personally use Mobil 1 15/50 here in Arizona. I like the 50 on the top end because it gets so hot here.

Whatever you choose, do not use any automotive oils like 10-30 in it. New Automotive oils with a hot rating of 30 or less are limited in the amount of anti wear additives (800PPM) because they plug up Catalytic Converters. They also have slick additives to make them "Energy Conserving" which can make your clutch slip. Many of the Automotive 10-40 oils are formulated the same as 10-30 for simplicity and should be avoided as well. The heavy racing oils like 20-50 in the Auto section don't usually adhere to the above specs and would be ok if you are in a hot climate. Diesel oils also don't have limitations and are loaded with Anti wear additives and are highly refined as well. These are usually 15/40 grades although Shell has a 5/40 Synthetic. Of course motorcycle specific oils in the appropriate weight are ok.

The Auto racing and the diesel oils are class II meaning they are refined well to keep the parafin content to a minimum. Shell 5/40 Synthetic is a class III meaning it is a mineral oil refined so well it behaves as a Synthetic. (Our gov. says it is ok to call an oil Synthetic if it behaves as such ) Mobil 1 is a class IV which is part (mostly) class III and part class V. Expensive oils like Motul and Redline are all Synthetic and fall into a Class V. In general, the higher the class the more temperature stable. This is a benefit because to be "multi grade" the oil must be either very temp stable or run additives called polymers. (These are molecules that ball up when cold but extend out their legs like spiders when hot) Polymers do nothing for lubrication and get sheared apart in the transmission. This is less an issue if you change the oil frequently. True Synthetics also tend to keep an Engine cleaner if you participate in extended drain intervals. Again this is less important if you change the oil like you should (5 hours or so in a Berg). Synthetics also take a bit higher temps, although if things are correct so your motor temps are normal, I doubt if that plays too much into account either. On the negitive side, I find that class V Synthetics don't allow my starter sprague to catch hold very well. Hope I didn't bore anyone too much.
Dan

Thanks Dan, your post was not boring at all! I have heard alot of good comments on Mobile 1 and was seriously thinking of going with it. Then I was told to stay with a motorcycle oil, not automotive oil. I think I will go with Mobile 1 and see how it works out.
EuroEnduro

EE

I have used Amsoil 20/50 in My bergs for 3 years. I change the oil when the oil starts to change color, to a dark shade of red, but not 8 month old 2 smoke trans oil black. The ride time is varied depending on ambient temp and clutch abuse. Other non synthetic oils tend to "lighten" my engines. Switching to full synthetics slowed the amount of metal filings on the magnet.

I believe the 20/50 is the Series 2000 motorcycle oil.

Fryguy

There are many quality makers of engine lubricants.Fully synthesized(synthetic)is the latest advancement in lubricants and are recommended by Husaberg for that reason.The common choice is between petroleum base( POP) or Ester base.It is my belief that 100% ester base synthetic is the best ,it is also the most expensive.It comprises everything that the best oil companies have learned about lubricants at this time...of course this is only my opinion ...nsman

Fryguy, I think that the 10/40 was probably to light weight for a new tight motor. I went with it because I was riding in the mountians of Stanley Idaho in October where the temperature was around 40 degrees. When I drained the oil it probably only had 5 to 6 hours of trail riding on it. I was just suprised to see it so dark when I drained it.
EuroEnduro

I've been using 10 w 50 motorex fully synthetic. I wish i could find a 5 w 50 full synthetic that is designed for motorcycles but I haven't had any luck.

which oil

Hi deadeyedick
I`ve been using Putoline Off Road 4+, this is 100% synthetic oil and you can get it in 5w/50. Never had any problems with it, drop it after 2 rides out. Web site is www.putoline.com

hope this helps, brookester

If 5W50 is overkill due to that Husaberg wants to be sure about the riding condition 10-15 hours interval should be overkill as well. They cannot have a safety marginal in the oil quality and then have too long intervals. It is not logical.

I had a discussion with a guy at Shell. He thought a 10W40 is better at temperatures under 10 degrees celsius and 15W50 at temperatures above 15 degrees celsius. If I do not remember wrong, another brand recommends 20W60 or something like that. This gives that they consider the wear at operating temperature more server than the cold start wear. And again, a 5W50 is not very stabile due to the modified bas oil.

Best to just do what they say and use 5-50W. This covers both high and low temperatures. A Berg stuck in the woods even in the coldest winter is going to be very very hot.

I run mine on 5-50w Putoline Offroad 4+ or Motorex 10-50w and have had no trouble. Now the weathers a bit fresh (cold) here in the UK the Motorex is quite thick at low temperatures and I think the 5-50w would be better.

Running a 15-50w would mean the oil to be very thick at low temperatures, electric starting trouble would result.

I don't know much about oil stability.

I know people that run their Bergs on 10-40w fully synthetic.

Lloyd

Even with Class V ester based oil, I am sure to qualify for such a wide range as 5/50 plenty of polymers are used. Older Castrol Syntec 5/50 had a polymer base of almost 10%. That always scared me. Mobil 1 15/50 has practically no polymers. Have seen no figures on a 10/50, but would expect it to fall somewhere in between the two. Mobil 1 Auto oil has worked ok for me. The new Super Syn has 50PPM moly added which concerned me at first, but it has not presented any problems even in my E start bike. Red Line 20/50 Class V has about 250PPM moly and makes my starter sprague slip. I still use the Red Line in my FC model though. But if I need to ride and am out of the Synthetics, I always have plenty of Delo 400 15/40 for my service trucks and road bikes and have used it more than once in the Bergs with no problems.
Dan

Sometimes what is handy neccessitates it use. Myself, for example, do not have a variety of oils at arms length to choose and purchase for use. So I may not use the proper oil for cooler operating temps for startups, but I have found a viable solution. I DO NOT add oil until I unload the bike and am ready to ride. I leave the oil in the container and pour it into the motor warm when I'm ready to ride. Not a perfect scenario, but works for what I have.

fryguy

dsducati said:

... Mobil 1 15/50 has practically no polymers. Have seen no figures on a 10/50, but would expect it to fall somewhere in between the two. Mobil 1 Auto oil has worked ok for me. ...

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I do not know if the polymers effect the friction coefficient. The additives they put in the oil do a lot. The synthetic and semi synthetic Shell oils seem to have similar additives. At least they told me so but you never know when you speak with people within a company. Some know less than others. I have heard that the Japanese bikes got problem with the clutch when the API SH oils showed up. This oil has more additives to lower the friction. I have also been recommended that not using synthetic oil due to the wet clutch.

Has anyone tested used oil to see if it is necessary to replace the oil or not? This depends of course of the riding conditions. If you talk to an oil company they think the 5 hours interval is very strange. I think I read that in model 2004 you shall replace the oil after 15 hours with an average fuel consumption of 6.7 l/h. For me this is very much. Only at MX or cross country condition I am at this consumption level or above. Normally I am around 3.5 l/h.

Tests performed at a university in Sweden showed that Mobile 1 is really nice oil. Tests with prolonged replacing intervals within a car brand Mobile 1 worked very well as well. They had no problem at all. But, I am still surprised that it is possible to use Mobile 1 Auto with a wet clutch. All these additives to lower the friction should stick on the clutch discs. On the other hand, if you can keep the particles, soot etc, within the oil these will not stick on the clutch discs. Auto oil will "wash" better due to the higher API grade.