Water logged

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Taffy said:
twist

great info. up to the bottom of the tank hey! that means if you'd stopped you really would have been knackered!

do you run the standard engine breather as well?

Taffy

Taff,
After filling the airbox with oil a couple of times I rerouted the engine breather. Basically up to the frame then a 180 bend straight down between the engine and bashplate. I put a strip of filter foam about 400mm long up the breather hose with a couple of pieces of wire through the tube to hold it in place.

If you do stall in water you just have to remember not to hit the button.

In the past if water reached the carb breather hoses the bike wouldn't stop but would would splutter and cough once out the other side.

The puddle (more like a bog hole) I went through on the weekend was to the top of the engine case for about 3 metres then the last metre or so dipped. I couldn't believe the plug didn't give me any problems.

What amazed me more was the guy behind me on the DRZ saw what the hole was like but still decided to have a crack at it instead of finding a way around. Ended up wasting half an hour.
 
twist

i've been looking at these keihin breather pipes (are you FCr or dell orto?) and there's really only one pipe that needs the splitter and that's the blcak one out the middle of the floatbowl?

agree?

Taffy
 
Taff, I think my FCR is different to yours. I have a tube at the top rear of the carby, it runs across the back of the carby and has a barb fitting on each end. You can see straight through the tube.

The overflow comes up from the bowl and enters this tube in the middle.
Provided the breather hoses are kept on each side of the bike the excess fuel escapes very easily.

As I am sure you know, with the single overflow the tube must be run centred to the carby. I have seen some bikes where the overflow comes off the carby and is routed down one side of the bike. This results in the overflow only working with the bike laying on one side.
 
well that's all right then. i only fall on right handers!

Taffy
 
I also have ruined a stator from water and mud. After replacing it and reading post on this site I decided to try a variation on the stator case breather. I drilled a 1/4 hole in the bottom of the case and inserted a nylon 90 deg barbed fitting (I had to shorten the end that went into the engine and file the barbs a little), I then purchased a "free flow" gas tank breather hose, which has a 1-way check valve, and cut it off so the end of the hose was right at the oil drain hole of my skidplate. In theory this will let any water that makes it into the case drian out but not allow water from a creek crossing in. So far it is working.
 
"The clutch now works perfect."

Check the glue bonding the friction material to your clutch plates by sliding your finger sideways across the plate and see if you can lift the edge.

I filled mine with water and was blissfully unaware for about six weeks.
When I dismantled the clutch the linings fell off in my hands. I think they use water soluble glue.

Hope this doesn't happen to you as it was $350 AUD for just the friction plates.

Cheers Ice.
 
Since the clutch is working fine now I hope
the plates are still bonded.The stator cover
o-ring has too small a cross section.I think a
thicker one with a little sealer around the
wire gromet will do the trick.Silicone isn't
as good as some underwater 3m urethane
I picked up.It takes longer to dry,but my
test piece is still holding water and the 3m
has a higher peel strength.
 

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