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Valve springs

Joined Apr 2002
1K Posts | 3+
fallon nv
As a casual rider and somewhat old too do I really need the double springs instead of the stock which have held up for 180 hours? They are 6 times the price........... 8O

Talk to me oh great taff
 
hi bob (and pete)

they do make a difference for sure. they are 100% reliable, make less noise, make more power and there is no need to change the camchain, CFB, or cam bearing if you do now or at anytime in the future. so whhat you lose early on you'll gain in so many ways. it's a win-win situation.

i've fitted about 10 sets now and have yet to have any trouble. i got mine from kibblewhite in the USA but they no longer sell direct. you can get them as if fitted to aa ktm400 from flea bay. they were $139 bucks but they noticed (when i asked for a discount) that they were cheaper than the 525 sets so they put them up to $200 and siad "yeh! sure you can have a discount, $5 off the postage and thanks for pointing out our mistake!".

cheeky barstools!

i sell sets in the UK for £95. conicals over here would be £50 for 4 so i guess they're less than double the price here. i can sort you out a price bob just PM me.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/HUSABERG-DUAL-VAL ... 286.c0.m14

regards

Taffy
 
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Re: RE: Valve springs

grasstrackpete said:
we all do, i just cant afford em at mo :(

.......and who bought another husaberg at the weekend with his cash!!!!!!

:wink: :wink:

regards

Taffy
 
Pricer on bike bandit is $150 something and that is each I think. It dont say each. If 150 a set I can handel that.
Im going to go through the head and a few of the idlerbearings in the clutch side. Im not going to open the motor up or do the rings. Its still got too much grunt left and I dont see any problems from what others milage and hours are showing.
 
I am also running dual valve springs from Kibblewhites, you do really notice the difference the motor seems to have more zing, plus the stress on the rocker arms is lower so you should get extended life from them. And they should be more reliable fingers crossed. 2500 miles on mines with no problems.

Regards

Sparks.
 
Bob,

Bikebandit list's $161 for a one engine kit. That's the same price as I found over at Dennis Kirk. Bike bandit gives a certain % discount for AMA members as well, so they'd be cheaper there.

They're on my wish list, as well as a shaplier cam...
 
pete

i think a look in the repair manual will tell you. i have never changd a reed valve but i do clean them out. the oil pump is a nightmare. how efficient is it/ how can we tell?

i'll PM you a price for the camchain and valves. what i will say is that i've just secured a great deal on cam chains from IWIS and iunstead of £30 for any old junk i reckon i can do them for £18-20 400 to 600.

regards

Taffy
 
Re: RE: Valve springs

Taffy said:
hi bob (and pete)

they do make a difference for sure. they are 100% reliable, make less noise, make more power and there is no need to change the camchain, CFB, or cam bearing if you do now or at anytime in the future. so whhat you lose early on you'll gain in so many ways. it's a win-win situation.

i've fitted about 10 sets now and have yet to have any trouble. i got mine from kibblewhite in the USA but they no longer sell direct. you can get them as if fitted to aa ktm400 from flea bay. they were $139 bucks but they noticed (when i asked for a discount) that they were cheaper than the 525 sets so they put them up to $200 and siad "yeh! sure you can have a discount, $5 off the postage and thanks for pointing out our mistake!".

cheeky barstools!

i sell sets in the UK for £95. conicals over here would be £50 for 4 so i guess they're less than double the price here. i can sort you out a price bob just PM me.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/HUSABERG-DUAL-VAL ... 286.c0.m14

regards

Taffy


hey Taff,

Can you explain why installing kibblewhite dual springs makes changing the cam chain redundant?

thanks.
 
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Re: RE: Re: RE: Valve springs

nsman said:
Is it Kibblewhite part# 96-96000 for these springs?

no it isn't. it's 96 - 96031.

i forgot to mention that the rocker pads won't cup as bad (if at all) and the valve stems won't dome and the valves won't tulip and the seats won't wear round, tappets won't need doing a fraction so often.

easier time on the chain? jeepers, i thought that was easy! the chain gets hammered too and fro as the cam goes over the highest point of the lobe. on the way up the cam doesn't want to come and as it goes over the top the cam tries to puch the chain around. pull, push, pull, push!!!!

last i saw my sets were cheaper than kibblewaite but they have fancy washers and i don't (at present).

regards

Taffy
 
RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Valve springs

taffy is it easy (im a mechanical engineer educated to hnd level) to change the cam chain? if so, ill have one till i can afford springs;)
 
RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Valve springs

i'll let you into a secret. yes! but am i robbing myself of work! (we have spoken yesterday by phone folks!)

the secret is to remove the ignition cover after you've removed the rocker cover, TWIG where the cam is when the engine is at TDC and then remove the CCT before removing the camchain link (doesn't matter where in the cycle but you'll need the split link at the top obviously. you can feed the new chain on the old one here and feed it around and then remove the old. then remove the head for the valve spring work, reverse all this and check that the cam is symetrical at TDC. if ever in doubt, tilt the cam slightly forwards rather than back but normally they come symetrical. if you can't get symetricaql then it's because the gears in the sidecover are wrong and the tooth must be adjusted there. at least another hour has been added so you don't want this.

360 the crank so the lobes are down, fit the rocker cover and the rst as they say is history!

regards

Taffy
 
RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Valve springs

hang on onld chap, you lost me, im just on about doing the cam chain, they are still coming to you for springs in a couple of months, can i just get it at TDC with ling at top then just change it, is there a way for locking the crank? how do i pay for chains?
 
RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Valve springs

i have just done a great deal on chains peter. call my mobile 0795 1010 542. daytime. i'm at stamford tomorrow and friday.

you don't lock the crank, just stop it with the timing marks at TDC on the flywheel. make a note, undo the CCTensioner, undo a split link wherever you find it and feed one chain carefully on to the other and turn the engine. feed one in and one out. i used to do it as a 2-man operation. i would feed one chain between finger and them and also the other so they rubbed. in the meantime i'd have the other hand open pressing the chain doown on either side as it either rolled onto or off the camsprocket.

you need someone with a 17mm socket and T-bar turning the crank really slowly. at the end you must remember the old cam position before the change. you can lift the cam aout and change the timing if you need to. at the end as long as it looks like it did before you'll be fine!

regards

Taffy
 
Re: RE: Re: RE: Valve springs

nsman said:
Is it Kibblewhite part# 96-96000 for these springs?

Thats the part number showing for KTM 520/525 2002-2007 or
KTM 400 2000-2007

The part number Taffy mentioned is for KTM 450 2002-2007 (except sx).

Now I'm a little bit confused. Taffy, you mention that the set for either the 400 or 525 is good, yet the part numbers are different. Does it matter? Or just buy a damn set and throw it in?
 
RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Valve springs

mate

not only am i giving away my business but i have to osort out ya friggin problems.

i said what i said.

regards

taffy
 
BTW

these kits have been fitted by sparks and i as you know. i don't know who else has, as it isn't coming to mind? i know that JoeUSA has a sety fitted but that they are lineaweaver springs and we haven't made a connection to where from?

so that's just sparks and i putting our bikes at risk. someone did it before us but i can't recall who? BB maybe?

anyway, we both went for a race cam that had convex flanks and we had no trouble. i then fitted kibblewaite's to 2 customers before trying my kit on mine and then on another couple of customers machines that came to me. but all the time, i was fitting a convex flanked race cam.

then i tried the kit on a couple of bikes with post '03 cams. these are only slightly convex flanked. they appear to have gone fine and indeed jockular has a modern '07 machine.

so so far these kits are good on race cams and on '04 plus bikes. this doesn't mean that they are good on 1997-2003 engines with the '01', the '53' or the '55' cam?

regards

Taffy
 

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