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valve clerance pic / vids.

A

ALINO

Joined Jan 2008
14 Posts | 0+
UK
This is either a good idea or a bad one? it has to be one or the other

after reading the post on valve adjustment i am only half the wiser on how to do it correctly (due to me being not so clued up on self maintenance ) has any one got or could get any pics or vids posted of the basics?

would save me a fair few pounds on taking it in the shop every 3 hours ..........
 
that would be a wounderful idea.
i read the whole topic but when i got my engine in front of me i had lot of doubts and worries
 
would save me a fair few pounds on taking it in the shop every 3 hours ..........
Click to expand...
Alino, If you check a little more on this site you can probably get more detailed instructions on how tto adjust your valves. That along with your repair manual would help. As for 3 hours, well the first initial valve ajustment should be after three hours, then around 20 hours after that as a general rule.
Pollo
 
noticed I had to adjust mine the other day as it started to feel tight to turn on the electric start, pukka again now and more power too.
 
Alino,

check through the owners doc as I'm sure there is a link to set of photo's on valve adjustment. Worth spending alot of time going through the doc as there is heaps in there that will open your mind to the Husaberg.
 
I know we all love to tinker, but I will be the one to say that if you are not comfortable with the procedure you are better off taking it in to a dealer - incorrectly adjusted valves will cause to problems and loads of frustration. I have been adjusting valves on these things for about 7 years and I still hate the job!

If you can find a dealer that is happy to do them properly in front of you so you can learn, then all the better.

All the best,
Simon
 
I'd go with Simon on this. I didn't really get comfortable with valve adjustment until Buzzard showed me. Now I have shown some one else, it gets easier. A doctor once told me to do an operation you have to , see one, do one, teach one.
Later
Ron
 
Check out ktmtalk under rfs valve adjustments, there is a good vid of how to do it several ways(as mentioned above^^^). I prefer the 1/6 turn method. My new berg was all out of adjustment when new. I found it rather hard to kick and noisy, a quick adjustment revealed the exhaust valves were double the spec, or 1/3 turn. She now kicks like a dream, and runs even better. definatley worth learning to do yourself! Good luck! :rock:

jz
 
What about having a crack at the adjustment yourself. Then taking it to the bike shop to see if it was done correctly. i don't have someone to show me, but that You Tue vid was pretty easy to follow.
 
i got it wrong 1st time as was on the wrong stroke at tdc and adjusted them then bike wouldn't turn at all way too tight re did it after someone telling me to turn the engine over a few times till I got the correct tdc then was easy...ish just bit fiddly holding the screwdriver and tightening the nut.
 
Just remember that you can get close with using the kick starter by hand to get it to TDC but it usually needs to go a little more so I use a thick Zip tie positioned in the spark plug hole to make sure the piston comes up all the way by spinning the rear tire in 6th gear. Others will tell you same here.
Pollo
 
pollo said:
Just remember that you can get close with using the kick starter by hand to get it to TDC but it usually needs to go a little more so I use a thick Zip tie positioned in the spark plug hole to make sure the piston comes up all the way by spinning the rear tire in 6th gear. Others will tell you same here.
Pollo
Click to expand...

Sorry Pollo, but I would never recommend sticking anything down inside the motor, and I would never tell anyone to do it. Not a zip tie, not a pencil 8O , not anything. It is simply not necessary. Before you go turning adjustment screws, you should have a clear understanding how to tell if the valves are closed by watching the springs/rockers move as you turn over the engine.

Besides, getting to TDC exactly is not necessary to adjust our valves. Rather, the cams need to just be anywhere on the base circle. The valve you are adjusting needs to be FULLy CLOSED. That's it. This is true of any internal combustion engine with valves that adjust.

All trying to find TDC does is give people that don't have a clear idea of how a four stroke engine works a 50% chance of adjusting the valves on the wrong stroke. If you have to back a valve off more then even 1/2 a turn to get it in adjustment, STOP. You are on the wrong stroke and the valve is not closed.
 
Thats OK John. Don't do it. Just remember that there are many of us even hundreds that do it this way. Maybe even a screwdriver. He He. And you don't have to damage the piston if you don't want too or get a piece of plastic chopped off in there. Just be careful and without fear. When the Ziptie rises to the top, your there. I like to know exactly where im at thank you.
Pollo
 
I use one of those thick heavy duty long Zipties. Very durable and while it is in the spark plug hole I have complete confidence its not going to catch on anything. You just rest it on the top of the piston while you bring it up to TDC. A very harmless procedure.
Paul
 
JOHNf3 said it best ..whats the point of all the other steps ? there are so many different opinions its made much more confusing than it has to be ..kiss equals keep it simple stupid ..see the utube ktm valve adust video and just do it yourself
 
Here's a thought,
Someone in the know could make the video and post it up...before hand though all of us that would benefit by the knowledge and the saved expense could make a donation to the site...we set a target of lets say $750 and once reached the video goes up to teach those of us that don't know the correct way to do it..

It's only fair seeing as we'd all save money and have the ease of doing it on our garages...give a little to get a little

Cheers

Pilot
 
I've got 2 FE550's to do in about another 5 hours ride time, i can vid it with my helmet cam zip tied on my hat or something.

I use the zip tie too or a piece of galv or S/S wire with a small loop rolled at the bottom, i agree that the cams are the most important, but if it were not important to get TDC, the we wouldnt all referr to it that way, I like to know that at TDC youre setting the valves at the point where all the action happens, i'd be reluctant to do it knowing it is off TDC.

Valves are easy, im still s#!++ing myself about doing a fork service!

Azza.
 

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