Some debate elsewhere in the forum about what the best method is. I prefer the 1/6, 1/8 method as I think its accurate, more accurate than feelers.
Vote for your preference.
Steve
Vote for your preference.
Steve
Valve Adjustment Method, Vote for Yours!
- Thread starter steve
- Start date
-
- Tags
- adjustment method valve vote
My two cents:
While the 1/6 turn method sounds good, I have had personal expeiences with the adjusters that makes me very wary of using this method.
What comes to mind first is that without checking with a feeler gauge after the final torquing of the lock nut, you really have no way of knowing whether or not the adjuster moved when you torqued the nut. If you ever have inadvertently over tighted the lock nut just once you will have messed up the threads on said adjuster, and it will decrease the valve lash when you tighten it. Further, most of the time what happens when you tighten the lock nut, it will actually increase the valve lash by as much as thousandth or a skosh more.
Therefore, I have stayed with the feeler gauge method. I use my digital 1" micrometer and set it at .005" of an inch. Then I take my feeler gauge and put a very slight film on the .005" feeler gauge and then slide it in between the space set @ .005" on the micrometer. This will give you the correct feel you are looking for when you slide the feeler in between the valve stem and tappet. Granted if the tappet is cupped you will be less likely to get the correct lash, but, you will notice that it doesn't feel right.
I suppose the thing to do would be to use the 1/6 method and then check with the feeler gauge to verify the setting, and then make adjustments in the feeler gauge thickness to compensate so at least you could check it.
But, for me, I'll stick with feeler guages.
While the 1/6 turn method sounds good, I have had personal expeiences with the adjusters that makes me very wary of using this method.
What comes to mind first is that without checking with a feeler gauge after the final torquing of the lock nut, you really have no way of knowing whether or not the adjuster moved when you torqued the nut. If you ever have inadvertently over tighted the lock nut just once you will have messed up the threads on said adjuster, and it will decrease the valve lash when you tighten it. Further, most of the time what happens when you tighten the lock nut, it will actually increase the valve lash by as much as thousandth or a skosh more.
Therefore, I have stayed with the feeler gauge method. I use my digital 1" micrometer and set it at .005" of an inch. Then I take my feeler gauge and put a very slight film on the .005" feeler gauge and then slide it in between the space set @ .005" on the micrometer. This will give you the correct feel you are looking for when you slide the feeler in between the valve stem and tappet. Granted if the tappet is cupped you will be less likely to get the correct lash, but, you will notice that it doesn't feel right.
I suppose the thing to do would be to use the 1/6 method and then check with the feeler gauge to verify the setting, and then make adjustments in the feeler gauge thickness to compensate so at least you could check it.
But, for me, I'll stick with feeler guages.
I agree with Dale. I tried the 1/6th method but still used a feeler gauge to check it. so i just plan on grabbing the feeler gauge and disassembling the bike (99 model, getting better at it) if nothing else its for peace of mind. just my 2 cents worth.
Feeler guage.I like knowing exactly what I've got and exactly how it has changed since the last adjustment.Guessing at it will allow it to run but seems a little "hacky" to me.
I'm with Steve & the 1/8th method. No removing radiator & you're done in 10 minutes. I couldnt get a feeler guage in there with the radiator removed anyway.
I use feeler guage. with the radiator not removed. Take away the crankvent-hose and adjust the right-valves from the left on bike and opposite the other side. and I use SKF 200mm long feeler gauge bendt 2 times to get a good angle on it, and have no problem with it. 15min max.
Regards Patrik
Regards Patrik
Hi im new here, and just learning about these bikes.
I have a fs650e 05 plate, and im guessing mines due for a check with 40 hours on.
Question for all those who say 1/6th-1/8th turn..........once you adjusted it, what did you find when you checked it with the feeler guage on average ( if you bothered) as it looks real difficult to check/adjust them with feelers.
Iv been more used to superbikes as iv raced them for 13 years, but now crossed over to the world of Supermoto husabergs.
Cheers
Gary
I have a fs650e 05 plate, and im guessing mines due for a check with 40 hours on.
Question for all those who say 1/6th-1/8th turn..........once you adjusted it, what did you find when you checked it with the feeler guage on average ( if you bothered) as it looks real difficult to check/adjust them with feelers.
Iv been more used to superbikes as iv raced them for 13 years, but now crossed over to the world of Supermoto husabergs.
Cheers
Gary
1/6th Seems to have worked fine for me too - being an ***** I did set them 180 degrees wrong before my mate luckily set me right. I'll try to download some pic's later.
Joined Nov 2001
17K Posts | 774+
Ely, England
i'm not sure who does the 1/8th turn?
i always did 1/6th turn because 0.7mm divided by 6 = 0.12mm which is exactly what you want!
i have suggested myself 1/7th as a way to go when you have the better cam, valve springs etc.
remember, feeler gauges going through a pair of cupped surfaces such as the stem of the valve and the pad of the rocker will give you a false reading!
regards
Taffy
i always did 1/6th turn because 0.7mm divided by 6 = 0.12mm which is exactly what you want!
i have suggested myself 1/7th as a way to go when you have the better cam, valve springs etc.
remember, feeler gauges going through a pair of cupped surfaces such as the stem of the valve and the pad of the rocker will give you a false reading!
regards
Taffy
Taffy said:
That being the case,the questions that occur to me are-1. How many hours before this is an issue 2.Given that the turn out method is innacurate because your clearance changes as you tighten the nut and the feeler gauge is innacurate due to cupped surfaces;How much deviation from spec would you have before you had either a loss of performance or accellerated mechanical wear(regardless of how slight in either case)
Joined Jun 2007
4K Posts | 1K+
south east WA Australia
Prefer feeler guages checked with dial indicators on worn engines, though a good deal of my income is derived from setting valves on diesel engines usually with a lot more than 4 valves so I have a "feel" including comphensating for cupping wear, with the feeler guages :? .
extreeme cases of cupping need to be rectified this being more important than the valve adjustment itself.
dial guages are useful for measuring backlash where excessive cupping is present though only if the rocker arm shaft and bearings are in good condition
feeler guages and 1/x turn methods work well with worn rocker shafts as the rocker is forced into roughly the position on the shaft taken during valve opening.
so if the best method for a worn husey engine is 1/x turn? how do you know its right if feeler guages or dial indicators can be inacurate on a worn engine?
using both feeler guage and dial indicators at once and relying on the dial indicator reading is a pretty safe bet to calibrate your chosen 1/x method.
A wise old diesel mechanic told me the only accurate way is to get good at measuring things, develop a good relationship with your engine from the start when its not worn so you can check your results properly, learn how to use feeler guages with dial indicators or micrometers as described in dales post and choose your 1/x turn method from there.
If setting valves on one particular engine regulary it is very easy to develop a "feel" for that engine with 1/x turn and i bet Taffy and others who get into their engines regulary can hear how much they needs to tighten their valves or perhaps even which one needs doing!
Regards
Bushie
Edit: Using an open ender with a spring balance to tourque the locknut helps to reduce variations in tourque or to learn a feel for correct tourque while making sure the screw head does not move which is impossible with a conventional tourque wrench and socket.
extreeme cases of cupping need to be rectified this being more important than the valve adjustment itself.
dial guages are useful for measuring backlash where excessive cupping is present though only if the rocker arm shaft and bearings are in good condition
feeler guages and 1/x turn methods work well with worn rocker shafts as the rocker is forced into roughly the position on the shaft taken during valve opening.
so if the best method for a worn husey engine is 1/x turn? how do you know its right if feeler guages or dial indicators can be inacurate on a worn engine?
using both feeler guage and dial indicators at once and relying on the dial indicator reading is a pretty safe bet to calibrate your chosen 1/x method.
A wise old diesel mechanic told me the only accurate way is to get good at measuring things, develop a good relationship with your engine from the start when its not worn so you can check your results properly, learn how to use feeler guages with dial indicators or micrometers as described in dales post and choose your 1/x turn method from there.
If setting valves on one particular engine regulary it is very easy to develop a "feel" for that engine with 1/x turn and i bet Taffy and others who get into their engines regulary can hear how much they needs to tighten their valves or perhaps even which one needs doing!
Regards
Bushie
Edit: Using an open ender with a spring balance to tourque the locknut helps to reduce variations in tourque or to learn a feel for correct tourque while making sure the screw head does not move which is impossible with a conventional tourque wrench and socket.
This is not a viable concern as the decrease in clearance is finite and fixed and is accurately taken into account with the 1/6 turn method.
Not true, unless you don't trust your eyes. If necessary, the adjuster screw can be held in place with a screwdriver and the nut tightened with a box end wrench.
Chas said:
Like I said: "What comes to mind first is that without checking with a feeler gauge after the final torquing of the lock nut, you really have no way of knowing whether or not the adjuster moved when you torqued the nut. If you ever have inadvertently over tighted the lock nut just once you will have messed up the threads on said adjuster, and it will decrease the valve lash when you tighten it. Further, most of the time what happens when you tighten the lock nut, it will actually increase the valve lash by as much as thousandth or a skosh more."
And I also said: "I suppose the thing to do would be to use the 1/6 method and then check with the feeler gauge to verify the setting, and then make adjustments in the feeler gauge thickness to compensate so at least you could check it."
I trust my eyes plenty, in fact I know that my eyes are capable of .004" of an inch accuracy. However, I can't see where the valve stem meets the adjuster.
To clarify, what I am suggesting is that when you use the 1/6 method, after your initial set, check it with what ever thickness feeler gauge you find gives you the best feed back, and then use the same feeler gauge to check the lash after you have made your final torquing of the lock nut to make sure nothing has moved. By not doing so you cannot be sure that your original set has been maintained.
I have messed up a few of these adjuster stems in the last 12 years, and have learned that sometimes they have personalities.
If you want to really be sure that you're clearance is accurate after you have set the lash, roll the motor through a few cycles and re check the lash measurement. You might be surprised at what you find.
Similar threads
Register CTA
Register on Husaberg Forum! This sidebar will go away, and you will see fewer ads.
Sign Up
