Unable to start engine after rebuild.

Engine is a 2002 650, just did a rebuild on it, here is a list of things I did to it:

- X2 cam
- New 450 high compression piston + replated the sleeve
- new upgraded rockers
- new camchain + upgraded the tensioner to the later style
- upgraded the balancer to the 07 model
- new bearing all round, roller bearings for the crank
- sem redone by sparks, also tested the cdi


But now it won't start, the owners doc of this site was my bible while rebuilding it especially when setting up the ignition.
- the dots on the drive shaft and the crank shaft gear wheel are exactly as in Taffy's drawing.
- Looked for the TDC using the dead stop method as recommended by Taffy
- then put the piston in TDC, put the cam in, the lobes pointing to the 11 and 1 o clock position. Again as recommended by Taffy I used the ruler across the lobes and there was less than 1mm difference (measured with a vernier to the cilinder head) between both sides.
I then turned the engine over using a t wrench on the flywheel nut and the valves openend when they supposed to open so even if I messed up the cam setup it can't be by much.

I opened up the carb (dellorto) and checked the inside for blockages or any other sign of problems. Everything was clean except for a little dirt where the fuel filter is. The only thing out of the ordinary was the pilot jet wich is a 33 and should be 40 (according to the husey manual)

I have checked for a spark, by holding the plug against the engine and then give it a kick and I can see a spark everytime I kick it, but how can I check if the spark is strong enough?

When putting in the stator and after putting the engine in it's TDC do I line up the stator with the tdc line on the flywheel or the line a couple of mm in front of it? Now it's lined up with the line just in front of the tdc mark.

So in short, HELP

So if I understand it correctly what you are saying is, put the engine in TDC and then line up the mark on the stator with the allen screw head as you describe?

Did as you suggested, still no go. Just to be sure I understood correctly (different languages and all) I took a pic of how it's set now.

The red arrow is the TDC found using the dead stop method.



As for it being in the manual, I checked an rechecked my manual? And all it says is put engine in TDC and put the stator on the first mark on the flywheel (one most to the right when looking at it) nothing being said about the bolt from the cover

I'm starting to think that I messed up the dead stop method, so I'll briefly describe how I did it.

- Put the engine close to the TDC
- put the degree wheel on with the zero on the flywheel tdc mark
- go clock and anti clockwise noting down the degrees on both sides
- fiddling the degree wheel so that I got the same amount of degrees before I hit the piston on the clock and anti clock wise rotation.

Then put a mark on the engine case wich is aligned with the mark on the flywheel whil the engine was a tdc. So that I can find the TDC again.

Is this the correct way of doing it or did I mess up?

EDIT :so the TDC is the nick in the engine case you can just see it underneath the arrow I so skilfully photoshopped into the picture.

EDIT: thinking about it more, and I think I see where I messed up, when I found the tdc, I should of put the igintion cover on and marked the flywheel corresponding with the mark on the cover? Instead of marking the engine case, correct?

What I noticed when testing the new plug (again ) today is when I have the plug out and hold it against the head, and then turn the engine over by pushing down on the kick with my hand there is no spark, but when I kick (thus move the engine faster) there is a spark. Is this normal or is it a sign of something wrong?

Another thing was, after I kicked the engine about a million times today I kicked it a couple of times holding the decompression lever open, and then there was a little explosion (not really a bang more of a thud) from the cilinder, maybe this indicates something?

sparks said:

Hi BelgiqueBasterd,

Seeing that I am not imortal just try the spark performance test with the plug out and cap off should jump 10mm from lead to cylinder on a normal kick.

Regards

Sparks.

Click to expand...

Just did that now, I get a very inconsistent result, a couple of times I can see a definate arc, but then a couple of kicks nothing happens, then a couple of sparks shortly after one another and then stops again and so on, could it be a bad ground? How is the electrical system grounded? Throught the frame into the stator? Or some other way?

tuts said:

just a thought.....
pull the plug and shoot some starter fluid in and put the plug back and try it.
if it hits for a little bit then you know the electric/ignition is ok.

Click to expand...

Used all my starter fluid to clean and degrease engine parts! Will get some more tomorrow and try! Will keep you guys updated.

Now you see where I got my nickname from it can be used in a number of combinations such as lazy, clumsy, dangerous, and i this case dumb bast.....

I now did as you suggested and the actual tdc differs about 8° from the original line on the flywheel.


Ignition as it is set now:


But still no go, I do every now and then get a little puff from the engine (not a starting puff , sorry for the highly technical language) also tried with some starting fluid, first just in the carb and then directly into the plug hole, but no succes.

What do I do now? Sell it and buy a bicycle?

Since i have tinkered with the electricals, maybe the cause of all this is a bad ground, how can I check if the ground is ok?

I have also installed an X2 cam and a high compression piston, could this lead to starting problems with the stock carb settings?