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To part or rebuild 02 650

D

drdfblackm

Joined Mar 2007
121 Posts | 0+
Well it has been one week since I bought a 2002 FX 650, and I just finished removing the engine.

Carb need adjustment, no problem.

Valves need adjusting, no problem

Stator had water on it, and the flywheel is a little rusty....well it was a good deal.

Drained oil....metal shavings in the oil....CRAP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :evil:

The seal between upper and lower case is leaking....what else is new.

So should I just part out the bike and lick my wounds or take and have the engine torn down and checked over?

I have some photos, I will post later when I calm down.

Anyone need parts for 650????

Darrin
 
WWWHHHHOOOOAAAAAA but I guess I'd be revving too. But the source may not be that terrible. A couple questions about the flakes. Are they steel or aluminum? If they are aluminum, perhaps the cam chain is rubbing against the chain tunnel. I don't remember if it was 01 or 02, but one year some bikes lacked a shim behind the cam chain drive sprocket and the chain would rub on the tunnel and leave slivers of aluminum in the oil. One source of steel filings is from the cam follower rollers. These are upgradable to parts that last significantly longer than the std issue ones.

I would definitely find out the source before I decided to part it out. It may cost very little to get on the road reliably.

Best of luck

fry
 
Well if you decide to part it out I call debs of the forks and clamps for my BMW project.
 
Re: RE: To part or rebuild 02 650

fryguy said:
WWWHHHHOOOOAAAAAA but I guess I'd be revving too. But the source may not be that terrible. A couple questions about the flakes. Are they steel or aluminum? If they are aluminum, perhaps the cam chain is rubbing against the chain tunnel. I don't remember if it was 01 or 02, but one year some bikes lacked a shim behind the cam chain drive sprocket and the chain would rub on the tunnel and leave slivers of aluminum in the oil. One source of steel filings is from the cam follower rollers. These are upgradable to parts that last significantly longer than the std issue ones.

I would definitely find out the source before I decided to part it out. It may cost very little to get on the road reliably.

Best of luck

fry
Click to expand...

Not sure if I can tell now what kind of filing they are. I am planning on starting to take the top end off. I figure that it won't cost me anything. The guy said basically the engine was new...completely rebuilt...I don't know if that is true or not.....what could I look for to tell if the engine was rebuilt. I can tell you that they were not easy on the gaskets when putting it back together. I know that I am going to need new valve check cover gaskets, in addition to a new seal for the upper/lower.

I am going to study breaking the engine apart.

I am traveling into uncharted territory for myself. I have not torn an engine down. This is new to me so please if I ask some dumb questions don't be too harsh on me.

Darrin
 
You really need to post some pictures before tearing it down. You also need to run a magnet through the metal to determine if it is steel or aluminum. It is not unheard of for a 01-02 motor to shed alittle metal. Those motors had aluminum cam gears that tended to shed alot of metal. If the cam chain is stretched it will definatly shave some metal off the cases.
Where was that oil leaking from? Does it seem to have alot of excess silicone sealer? Pull the oil filter out and tear it apart then post take a picture of what you see.
 
Berger, do you think that if he was told the motor was freshly rebiult that maybe they didn't clean the cases etc from the last failure and maybe its just old debris??? That would be best case scenario. Should he remount th emotor, add fresh oil, ride it, do it agian and see what he gets? Just a thought>
 
Darrin said:
I am going to study breaking the engine apart.
I am traveling into uncharted territory for myself. I have not torn an engine down.
This is new to me so please if I ask some dumb questions don't be too harsh on me.
Click to expand...
May be this is helpful:

Workshop Manual 2001 - 2003
Part 1
Part 2
Part 3
Part 4
 
Maddel said:
Darrin said:
I am going to study breaking the engine apart.
I am traveling into uncharted territory for myself. I have not torn an engine down.
This is new to me so please if I ask some dumb questions don't be too harsh on me.
Click to expand...
May be this is helpful:

Workshop Manual 2001 - 2003
Part 1
Part 2
Part 3
Part 4
Click to expand...

Already have the manual, thanks for the heads up.

I am going to tear back into it tomorrow.

I thought about some of the debris being from not cleaning the cases well.

The leak is coming from the valve inspection covers, and the cylinderhead gasket....I don't think that they were too careful putting the engine back together. I would like to replace those gaskets for sure.

I mean oil was seeping out of these gaskets and running down the front of the engine.

Another thing is the stator....lots of rust....I think that this is why I am also having such a hard time starting....not a great spark. There is also some rust on the flywheel. Opinions abound on this subject, I have read many.....in my case, should I replace or use a scotchbrite pad to shine it back up and slather with vasoline????

I have some photos and I will get some more. Hopefully everything is ok and I am just blowing everything out of porportion.

Darrin
 
Some of the photos, more to come tomorrow

Valveinspectioncover.jpg


stator.jpg


Leftcase.jpg


Flywheel.jpg


enginefront.jpg


cylinderheadgasket.jpg


Darrin
 
from the pictures you have posted only the top has been split (there is no gaskett seal where the 2 halves split)just strip the top end and have a look for wear.the stator is in a sorry state send to sparks for a rewind cost about $190. or new about double that.just cleen up the flywheel.
 
it is entirely possible that there is no leak from the cylinder gasket, the oil draining from the top of the motor can play tricks on you.
 
Fine aluminum particles are normal for a 01-02 as the cam chain saws through the cylinder and the aluminum cam chain sprocket sheds. The cam chain tensioners can be updated per the "doc"to help redirect the cam chain and the sprocket updated with a steel one. I would get the engine perfectly clean and monitor where the leaks are coming from. It may just be a matter of resealing the rocker and inspection covers. If the leak is coming from the head gasket that needs to be addressed before venturing too far out on the trail as it will at some point blow out.
 
wesh155 said:
from the pictures you have posted only the top has been split (there is no gaskett seal where the 2 halves split)just strip the top end and have a look for wear.the stator is in a sorry state send to sparks for a rewind cost about $190. or new about double that.just cleen up the flywheel.
Click to expand...

That is my plan for today. Sounds like I might have over-reacted a bit. I mean the bike ran really strong without any sounds of problems. It very well could be that they did not clean the top end very well. Reguarless the cylinderhead gasket needs replacing, I don't think that it was positioned 100% when installed....or they did not buy a new gasket...I have tried that one before on side covers (won't be trying that one again). The cylinderhead gasket and the valve inspection cover gaskets were definately leaking....or weeping, they are both pretty wet. I guess it could be oil dripping down, but since I have the whole engine out I will replace them.

On the stator....I thought the KTMs listed in other threads were much less $169 or so, and if so are these the ones that have less output? I would like to run a 55W bulb on the headlight instead of the weak 35W. If I choose to rewind...what is the turn around time sending from the states over and back? Are there any places in the states that are recommended for rewind service?

Thanks, going to tear off the top.

Darrin
 
Ok now I am at a stuck point, I don't have a way of getting off the cam chain. But I do need to get the cylinder head off to replace the gasket....any help or experience with this?? Thanks.

Darrin
 
Ok from all accounts that I can make, the shavings are aluminum, and not steel. Magnet is not picking up anything. Still have to get that gasket replaced, but I am feeling much better, I don't know how good I feel about putting this all back together, but should not be too much of a problem as long as I don't wait weeks to start putting it back together. Later.

Darrin
 
right then take the plug out put to tdc inlet and exhaust cam lobes at about 11 oclock and one oclock the mark on the fly wheel should be inline with the top bolt hole from the stator cover.then look at the cam chain you will see one of the links has been nulled over it should be around the one oclock mark block off any access for bits to drop down inside the engine and remove the clutch cover after removeing the cover lookfor timeing marks or make your own.now remove the cam chain tentioner and then the pins from the link slip the chain through the head and remove the head job done mate.refitt in reverse use the semi hardening gaskett seal on the head gaskett and the silicone type for the rocker cover and caseing.the stator just send it to sparks state what year and modle it came off and he will work his magic on it he is the dogs b------s at this work they are better than standard when returned.
 
The main thing I need is how to remove the cam chain....I don't have a rivet press as shown in the shop manual. So do I have to go out a borrow one or is there something else I can do to get the cam chain off in order to get to the cylinderhead gasket. Thanks.

Darrin
 

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