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Time to start stripping my forks......

Joined Sep 2010
163 Posts | 1+
Kent, UK.
I've had my Fe570 over a year now and have been playing with things as and when I ride it.
I've gone up to .46 springs on the front and 7.6 on the rear, although it's better i'm going to try a 8.0 rear spring soon as I feel it needs it.

I did a race with a MX section and the bike bottomed out on the hard hits, not that that bothers me too much as that's not what I use it for normally. Hopefully a bit more fork oil and the heavier rear spring will help this.

I'm going to strip the front forks to replace the oil and have a good clean out, whilst in there i thought I may make some changes. The thing I would like to improve on is the way the front kicks off of small stumps, rocks and square edges. I have read on here that the mid valve need some free bleed and have seen people drilling the MV piston 1.2mm. While I don't mind doing this, why can I not add a bleed shim? I'm guessing because it will only work as a bleed in compression and not in rebound?
Also if a bleed hole is used, do I then need to make changes to the rebound stack and the base valve?
I'm weary of making too many changes at once, but also aware that making a change in one place will affect others and I don't want to make things worse before they get better.

Any help would be gratefully received.
 
a bleed shim directly on the valve face falls into the valve body with opposing flow by different amounts depending on the stroke length and rod speed. simply put it introduces inconsistency and yes you really need one on both sides of the piston to have a similar effect as a bleed hole.

you could add a bleed stage ie

20
11
20
20
etc

that's more consistent than a bleed shim

the next question is "why can't I just run the rebound clicker out further?" for some reason its different, I like to think that a bleed in the piston smooths the time delay to ramp up and opening of the shims in a way that feels nicer than a bleed shim or just opening the rebound clicker more. the rebound clicker bleed path is longer so behaves differently as it saturates.

if you're concerned about the bleed hole try 1mm first.

for 570 specifics I think for this forum you can't go past cimwills thread and stacks "09 fork strip"
 
Ok that explains the need for a hole over a shim, thanks.

Am I correct in thinking that with the bleed hole it will increase the pressure in the lower cartridge quicker on compression, using the base valve more/sooner?

What effect does it have on the rebound?
 
Does anyone know where I can get details of the standard shim stacks for a 2010 FE?
I've done a serch but couldn't find much.
 
Just got back from a ride with my new 8.0 kg rear spring, what a difference!
Far more balanced, sits more level and now I can launch of every thing. Loads of fun.
Still finds grip though and the front lifts easier if any thing.
Just got to sort the HS compression and it will be perfect.
 
Right, I've been riding and trying to assess whats wrong with my forks, and also reading allot trying to understand these forks and generally doing my home work with regard to the WP forks.

So what I have found is that to keep the front high in its stroke whilst braking into corners and thus making it less harsh a have the rebound set quite high, 20+ clicks out. That seems fine until the lower speed rutted corners where it tends to push the front wide, this has had me off the bike more than once in dusty conditions.
Also the sharp hit and square edges the front wont soak the initial hit but also will then push off of the obstacle making it feel even worse.
High speeds also has it hitting hard and feeling very harsh.

So i'm thinking I have a rebound problem, in the high speed I think. I've adjusted it to work but this has made things worse in other areas.

I know I could go straight in and do what cimwill has done, but i'm not him. I'm me, and tuning something isn't just copying what someone else has done. It's changing things so they work the best for you. I may well end up some where close to what he had? But I will also learn allot on the way, i'm in no hurry and eager to learn.

Bushie, I was looking at some of your pic's, and I see you have fitted blow off springs to your mid stack? that's the thinking here? and why on the MV and not on the BV? not intending to try this, just interested.
 
1b7233a0.jpg

93b07c85.jpg

e914a073.jpg

05033e2b.jpg

MV float was 0.6mm and was all standard
 
It's been suggested I try these stacks


Reb

(2)20Dx.10
16x.10
20Dx.10
16x.10
15x.10
14x.10
13x.10
12x.10
10x.30
14x.25

Mid-Valve

(4)20x.10
18x.10
16x.10
14x.10
10x.20
10x.20

Comp BV

(6)24x.10
20x.10
17x.10
15x.10
14x.10
13x.10
12x.10
9.5x.30
12x.10

Leave the MV float at 0.6mm?

I'm just wrapping my head around what I'm changing and why.
Please correct me if I'm wrong:-
MV- removed bleed and stiffened up, holding it higher in it's stroke giving plusher ride.
BV- removed shims supporting the LS. Increased the HS slightly. Replaced the clamping/control shim.
REB- fitted crossover shim-softening of LS then slightly stiffening HS.

I willing to give a go and report back.

No bleed hole drilling then? :)
 
this is what will go into my fork, when time permits....

(2)20Dx.10
16x.10
20Dx.10
16x.10
15x.10
14x.10
13x.10
12x.10
10x.30
14x.25

Mid-Valve

(4)20x.10
18x.10
16x.10
15x.10 **********only had a 15 not the 14 recommended.**************
10x.20
10x.20

Comp BV

(6)24x.10
20x.10
17x.10
15x.10
14x.10
13x.10
12x.10
9.5x.30
12x.10
 
nick790 said:
Bushie, I was looking at some of your pic's, and I see you have fitted blow off springs to your mid stack? that's the thinking here? and why on the MV and not on the BV? not intending to try this, just interested.

I think I answered this in a PM?

easiest way to think of it is I use a big spring on my MV to vary the float. starts at nearly zero and can go to over 2mm

feels more like floating than just running say 1.5mm float.

I tried blowoffs on the BV and found they made cavitation worse .. in general I think the BV should "blow on" and the MV "blow off" but bear in mind mine are 08 forks with 12mm rod and 28mm cartridge, making them work at all without cavitating is nearly impossible without doing lots of mods. even valve simulation programs show them cavitating at relatively low shaft speeds.

those stacks look pretty good, how do they go? my opinion of the new smaller carts is that the MV pivot is very big compared to the OD of the shims so it (MV) behaves like a checkvalve. anything you can do to increase the range of deflection lets you run a lower float without harshness at high shaft speeds.

I've used a 2D smorgy backer in these carts made from a 19mm chromoly tube... a bit soft maybe a 21mm tube would be better and I think a 0.8mm or 1mm bleed hole is enough in the smaller cart.
 
Not ridden on the new stacks yet, had alot going on. I will report back though.
I've noticed while they have been apart that the have a massive amount of friction in the seals, may try some silicon to soften them up. Some of the Finnish on the components is sh!t, the pistons have loads of sharp flashing mark from where they were cast. I thought about smoothing and polishing them, waste of time maybe?
 
AFAIK the valve bodies are made from sintered metal in dies that need to be able to be taken apart hence the sharp edges

smoothing off the flow-paths is a good idea only takes a few minutes with a dremel type tool, the oil lasts longer.

Ive got kyb bushings and skf seals in my WP forks and polished the legs down to # 2000. with no other changes I had to stiffen the rebound 3 clicks. ive always thought it was a load of BS about polishing the legs etc... have to admit it does make a difference.
 
Had my first proper race sunday since last October. After knocking the rust off me, the bike felt really good. Some adjustments needed, but better than before. Fork seals shot now, should have done them before but they weren't leaking then. Anyone know the best place to get the SKF seals?
Would have got third in class if the the bloody thing started after I fuelled it!!!!
 
Taffy said:
I've got them Nick. 7.20gbp each

regards

Taffy

Excellent.

These are the green low friction jobys?

Have you got the dust seals aswell?

Got a few mates that will be interested as well.
 

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