The technical adventures of Dr_C
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Joined Nov 2012
2K Posts | 821+
Iceland
Well, in computer science we have a rule: If it walks like a duck and it talks like a duck then it must be a duck.
In the videos yours seems to walk like a duck. And talk like a duck.
Your engine has more Husaberg parts than the 70deg engine, and I consider those to be husabergs!
Btw, your engine is beautiful. Function rule over artistic.
Joined Jul 2015
141 Posts | 130+
Germany
Hallo Edgar!
There can be many explanations for getting an excessive amount of oil from the breather. Is it really that big an issue for you?
Connecting the breather to the airbox is not helping much. The lower air pressure in the air box helps sucking out the air/oil fume. A restrictive/dirty air filter can do that. A separate breather connected directly to the air (not air box), can reduce the oil loss.
If the foam in the breather has become soaked, it doesn't breathe very good, causing a higher velocity on the smaller air flow, which in turn carries the oil better.
Increasing the breather area is generally a good idea, as it lowers the air velocity.
You will need to avoid direct oil splashing on the orifice of the breather stub from inside the engine.
Higher rpms during longer periods, higher compression ratio and worn piston rings also increases blow-by, and carries more oil through the breather.
I have kept the breather connected to the valve cover, but added one through the hole where the starter motor used to be. I'm running 13,5:1, revving +6k all the time with a 680cc. No problem with oil from the breathers (the coffee perculator, according to Bushie).
I made the experience
when you fail landing your Berg or you drop the bike on a steep hill, the hot oil instantly finds its way into the carb boot via the engine breather ... (example pic from internet attached). When that happened you can spend 1h for kickstart-pumping the oil through the carb...The idea was providing the same flow area for the engine breather, but bypassing the airfilter. The air flow via the valve covers may could support cooling the outer right exhaust and inlet valve... I also like your idea with the very short filter attachment.
Regards,
EDE
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Joined Oct 2003
955 Posts | 1K+
Sweden
The short summary is that the engine pulls strong throughout the whole range (changed intake cam LC from 108 to 102,5 deg)! All large/critical mechanical parts behaived. Two small leakages were found. The new impeller cover works just fine! Video will come!
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Joined Oct 2003
955 Posts | 1K+
Sweden
Joined Oct 2003
955 Posts | 1K+
Sweden
Impeller cover update!
My machinist has been building a pool back home, so have been having difficulties setting his priorities straight! [emoji6]
The covers are sent for anodizing. The plan is to mill batch #2 this week. We are now talking about a total of 30 covers!
My own cover has been pressure tested in the work shop and successfully field tested on a trackday. My transmission cover had a dent/damage in the sealing surface against the impeller cover, so I had to shave off 0,3mm in a mill to make the o-ring work.
Skickat från min SM-A520F via Tapatalk
My machinist has been building a pool back home, so have been having difficulties setting his priorities straight! [emoji6]
The covers are sent for anodizing. The plan is to mill batch #2 this week. We are now talking about a total of 30 covers!
My own cover has been pressure tested in the work shop and successfully field tested on a trackday. My transmission cover had a dent/damage in the sealing surface against the impeller cover, so I had to shave off 0,3mm in a mill to make the o-ring work.
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Joined Jul 2012
223 Posts | 84+
South Africa
Hello DR.C
Absolutely amazing work on your DRC680!
Do you have any more water pump covers left, or are you going to have another batch done together with the valve covers? I do not mind anodized or not, so long as I can put a radiator hose on and bolt it to my engines, it will be fine.
Regards, and keep up the mad science!
Absolutely amazing work on your DRC680!
Do you have any more water pump covers left, or are you going to have another batch done together with the valve covers? I do not mind anodized or not, so long as I can put a radiator hose on and bolt it to my engines, it will be fine.
Regards, and keep up the mad science!
Joined Oct 2003
955 Posts | 1K+
Sweden
Joined Oct 2003
955 Posts | 1K+
Sweden
Hi guys! Long time, no see!
I have been developing an impeller cover for the 2004-2008 models. A have measured up a friends cover, made a 3D CAD model, had two versions 3D printed and one milled of aluminium. So now the third version looks like it´s going to work! It will be sealed with the use of an o-ring, just like the previous model. I'll need 60EUR a piece, including o-ring, post and packing. Anyone interested?
I have also done some work on my café racer! Fun blacksmith work!
I have been developing an impeller cover for the 2004-2008 models. A have measured up a friends cover, made a 3D CAD model, had two versions 3D printed and one milled of aluminium. So now the third version looks like it´s going to work! It will be sealed with the use of an o-ring, just like the previous model. I'll need 60EUR a piece, including o-ring, post and packing. Anyone interested?
I have also done some work on my café racer! Fun blacksmith work!
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Stupid question maybe...but the previose one impeller cover was not for 2004-2008 model? I do not try it yet...i have 2007 fe550. If not...will it be possible to change it with you ?
I do not try it yet...i have 2007 fe550. If not...will it be possible to change it with you ?
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Joined Oct 2003
955 Posts | 1K+
Sweden
I figured out along the road that the first batch only fits 2001-2003! When I realized that, I started to develop a version for 2004-2008. If my data is correct, you got a blue cover? Karsten in Germany (see above) wants such a cover. Maybe you can send him yours, and I'll sign you up for a 2004-2008 version?Stupid question maybe...but the previose one impeller cover was not for 2004-2008 model?
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